PerryL

Yep, You should post this in electronics section but Sounds like you have slider switches in it instead of toggles for the pickups. There's someone over there that can tell you how to replace the sliders with a toggle. It should be fairly simple BUT you'll probably have to replace the pickguard though.

This is just my opinion mind you but I'd make a full pocket neck shim. I took off too much material once on my neck pocket and did this and it served me well since you couldn't see it and served the purpose of having a flat base for the neck to set in. Basically, I took a piece of the same body material, sanded it down like a wedge and marked the holes and set it in the pocket. Worked like a charm. then again if the dent in the pocket is small, it shouldn't be a problem anyhoo.

getting a piece of ash myself. hehehe

Ya know Fretless, I actually like this better than the pic you posted. It looks a little more abstract which is what I like best. Love the Faux Binding also. Keep up the great work.

There's a Bosch Router on the website you visited that sounds like the best value for money. Bosch Router ScrewFix Have a look and see what you think.

Have a look at Grizzly Tools Drill Presses and Bandsaws. The Larger the drill press you get, the happier you will be later. I bought one of the 8" Delta drill presses at HD and while it is a great tool and value, I couldn't drill bridge holes that were 6" across the body since the throat was 4". Same with the bandsaw, the wider the cutting distance, the better.

That'll look sweet. Are you gonna add the binding?

Try it on some scrap wood before so you know what it'll do when it's on the guitar. The old filler I used on my ol' RG shrunk and left witness marks under the paint.

Nice one, wes.

Thanx Outtahear, Been trying to find the side material for ages and I thought they did the sides that way bu wasn't quite sure since I've never seen one taken apart. Thanx for that as well.

Once you get Maiden69's suggestion done, If you use Auto paint method be sure to use Auto Primer and Auto Spray color, then Auto Spray Clear. Because we don't know exactly what kinda finish (Urethane?) they used on the Original Fernandes Finish, you wanna stick with the same type product the whole way through. IMO, I'd stay away from sanding sealer before you paint and go straight to the Primer, and use glazing putty to fill any imperfections before you spray the color, Then give it lotsa clear coats since that will be the hard protection you need to have.

It's a great learning experience to build even a kit guitar. I myself would go with the Saga Strat Kit though since there are more options for future adventuring with strat parts than Tele Stuff. You can order one Here. Universal Jems

Pekollio, Are you buying a blank to cut it out yourself or are gonna order a body already cut and routed for you? The main reason I'm asking is that you usually have to have a body shape in mind before you can have them route any body cavities and neck pockets etc. I imagine you already have some idea what you want or you wouldn't be here but It's alot cheaper to order the blank and cut and route it yourself. You should have access to either a Bandsaw or router bits to cut around a template. On designing your own body shape, get yourself a large sheet of paper, and start drawing out a shape you want to create. Erase as much as you like until you come up with what you want to be your ultimate dream guitar, Then get that blank and draw it out on the wood being careful to match up the center join with the center of your design. Sorry to drone on. I don't even know what your answer is yet.

You just have to push the wood thru a little faster. Built a drum sanding machine way back when and it looks like a mini lathe. Put a straight piece of metal on the side between the mounting blocks but I never thought about mounting an adjustable bed under the drum. That's pretty clever. And, I already have the biggest majority of the work done. I'm putting a pic of it on the photoblog soon.

Yep, Tirapop, ya gotta love that "Mother Of Toilet-seat" front and back on those Pagelli's. Jus wipe em down and wail away. Kenneth, you should'nt have a thing to worry about the top not having ferrules, that stuff is really durable and holds an edge well. You are gonna put them in the back though, Rite? I still have to make up a drilling guide to drill the rear ferrule holes so they don't get drilled off center. Thinkin about some semi thick aluminum and laying out the holes and drilling they on my drill press with enough material surrounding them to clamp it to the top and I can drill em by hand then.

I knew this would be great for the discussion. After looking at some of those Wilsonart Laminates, My mind raced with ideas for one of the Pagelli JoJazz style knockoff's. I've always been attracted to the Oversize swoopy looking guitars with the Italian styling. I'm now totally into the idea now of making a semi acoustic with that stuff. No polish needed just a damp cloth to clean it up.

I'm trying to quit using Double stick Tape for templates since they never seem to stay in place when the heat builds up. I have to remember that screws hold better and I have to work out where, Exactly, those screws holes won't be seen when removed.

A pic would be great Litch. I did run across a pic of a dano style someplace on the web and I'll be damned if I can find it now. Keith, Thanx. I knew it could be done somehow, in fact, that's what I was going to try first, wetting it down and clamping it to a pine innner wall the same size as my masonite top. Update-Found the pic of that dano style I was looking for. It's now on my blog.

I'm quite impressed with that FormiCaster. Well, the formica is probably more flexable than Masonite so what I think I'll do is use some pine furring strips stacked and glued to hold the back and front together and bend up some of that formica to do the sides since I have NO idea where to get the material that covers the sides of old Dano guitars. So, Thanx alot for finding that link to the Formicaster.

I know there's alot more to it than I know about. It may be as simple as using pine or the like as the sides, and center core with the masonite covering that, but I haven't seen any Dano's disassembled. (No disassemble Number 5*) *refers to the film Short circuit

I have a little time on my hands lately and wondered if any of you folks have ever bent Masonite to make a Dano Style guitar. I bought a sheet of masonite at the depot saturday and want to try building one out of this. I did a search and so far just came up with guitar tops. Can you bend regular masonite on a bending iron to create sides for a dano style or do you just use it for the top? I don't wanna make a vintage stylee but something modern from old style techniques. Any feedback is greatly appreciated and hey, could be some interesting discussions.

The router's the way to go IF you don't have a bandsaw. Get a ballbearing Pattern cutting bit and cut around your template, screwing it down where you are mounting your pickup and bridge so the screw holes won't show when you mount your hardware. Cut down the length of the bit, around the entire template, then remove the template and the ballbearing should ride around the body where you've cut the outter shape previously, cutting it perfect. You may have to raise the body blank off your workspace to give you the extra room for this cut.

What kind of wood is on the top where the pickups are? I've done a similar job with Basswood by splicing a section into it. I first made a straight line from the bottom edge of the pickup and cutting a small section the same width up to the neck pocket. Secondly, cutting a section of the same top wood, and spicing it in. Try to match up the grain with the same type top wood, and finish it off.

Thanx Setch, Like I said, the second neck I made was without and it functions just fine. No rattle which was the first thing I was worried about, So Cool, My next one will get a martin style also. I didn't even fasten it in the neck since it was tight and cut to the exact depth and length. The Fingerboard was glued down with regular Titebond Wood glue.

The first neck I built was the standard truss rod and had a fillet but I tried using a Martin style truss rod from stewmac and didn't install a fillet since I didn't think it needed one. Does anyone else on the forum use a fillet with the Martin style truss rod? They have the flat aluminum channel on top and set flat against the bottom of the fret board.