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Well, I had to necesitate the rent on the shop this month so I started my 3rd guitar a couple of weeks ago. This was my first atempt at a drop top, and with help from Drak, I think it might actually turn into "something" (BTW, Drak, the info on dropping down a grit when sanding really made a difference). This one is really just a conglomoration of trying a few new things: First drop top First 7 piece laminate neck First time spraying paint that wasn't in a rattle can First go at veneering So on to the progress pics, though I didn't get pics till just today. Body shot Headstock Neck The pics of the headstock are supposed to show the "carve" or decline in the middle of the headstock itself. I plan to veneer this but have stalled at what would be the appropriate method to use. I would like to simple apply the veneer and then while the glue is wet xacto knife it to fall into the recessed area. I am afraid the glue may set while I am goofing with it though! Any thoughts would be appreciated. Take it easy fellas Nate Robinson

Wow! Sounds almost too good... You will definently have to post on the results of your purchase. Hope its just as nice when you get it as it was when you ordered it! Nate Robinson

agreed

Ok, there are two ways to look at this. Either you have a set number for the width of your neck at the nut - or- you have a set distance you want the string spacing to be. If you want a neck that is 2.75" at the nut then subtract the space you want from the edge of the fingerboard to the e string on both sides and divide by 7. This number compounded will increment to the center of each subsequent string. If you want a spacing of say 5/32's of an inch, then take the distance you want from the fingerboard to your first string then begin adding 5/32's of an inch until you hit the eighth string then add the same distance you started with to the first e string. maybe ive misses something, but im aggitated and tired - sorry

The patience exuding from the forum is absolutely amazing! If I may partake; Reading through this thread it seems to me that most of your problem in finding a nut width is that there is no nut width. Literally speaking, "It (nut width) is what is comfortable to your particular taste, dexterity, and playing style". I personaly prefer my strings 3/16's of an inch apart, it helps make up for my inability to put my fingers in the same place twice. There are those of us here that will say that is a ludicris amount of space between strings, and they will be right. But its my guitar. Do you see what I mean? I don't think that anyone is being condecending here, it really is just as simple as make it what you want it to be. Good luck! Nate Robinson

"like would it be noticalbe through the paint?" That depends alot on how good the glue up and flattening process goes, imo. But if you were to use slabs that were 3" wide, you wouldn't have to flip the board to finish the cut. That might save you some time flattening out the new cap. But I am new to this as well, so I may be missing something that might cause problems. At any rate, good luck! Nate Robinson

Just advice, and nothing more - you are pushing the wrong buttons here. Your other thread was just closed and you are taking this one the same direction. If you would like to post the design, then do it, just adhere to the pic rule. Post one pic then links. Anytime you post, you risk hearing something you don't want to hear, so if it is that important to you then do it and take the replies in stride. Good luck! Nate Robinson

That's amazing, finding that kind of deal must take some serious diligence. Yet another lesson learned.... I generally don't check ebay to much because I don't feel I have the ability to judge decent wood based on a pic that is supposed to show it's best side only. Do you look for anything in particular? Nate Robinson

HOLY FREAKIN !$%#&%(*&^*&^$&#$@^$*^##(*)(*^*&**&!!!!!!!! Its safe to say mine don't look like that! I know its not good form to ask what it cost, but was it over or under $400. Nate Robinson

Betcha that's it. Thanks for the advice, it was actually your "Ohhh, so blue" thread that inspired me to give this a whirl. Nate Robinson

I recently purchased a cheap piece of flamed maple to give a drop top a go. This will be my first attempt at the stain and sand back method. Initially I sanded the top to 220 then stained the top emerald green. I then sanded this back with 320 - had pretty good grain definition - and wiped on a peacock blue. The thing is, that from one angle the figure "jumps" at you just like it should, but when the top is shifted under the light it grows pretty faint. I have read the tutorials, and searches aren't producing anything that helps. I just don't know if this is common, or if I just haven't added enough dye to darken the grain. Or maybe I just have crap wood, which is entirely possible, since I bought this piece as an experiment more or less. The only other thing I can add is that most of the change occurs right at the book match. I know pics would help alot, but I can't get to the shop to take them right now. I just figured that those of you who have done this might know one way or the other just from a description. TIA, and we'll call this my one "stupid question" of the month! Nate Robinson

I have no idea of the "quilt" you have on hand, but I would think it would have to be pretty freakin extreme to be noticable in a dot. But, then, maybe you do have a absolutely tight, beautiful, quilted piece to pull plugs from. In any event, good luck! Nate Robinson

The headstock has a nice shape to it, but I am concerned the Pups are a little overwound. It's hard to say, though, without getting your hands on them. The body appears to be nice and comfortable. And though the tailpiece can't clearly be seen in the picture, I imagine it is in quite good shape. All in all - a nice "guitar" Nate Robinson

I agree with Wes on this one, that does seem a little steep to begin with. I too own a thickness planer, and I think it is a pretty decent addition to the shop. However, it does have problems with figured woods and to counteract that I am forced to spray the wood with water to keep tear out to a minimum. Even doing that, I have to take very small cuts to keep from destroying the piece. I have been using hand planes for 1 year now and am nearly to the point that I can plane a 36" X 36" table top without leaving ridges or cups in the surface ( 5 ridges and 2 cups on the last try). With that being said, it takes me nearly as long to machine plane figured wood as to hand plane it. I don't have any experience with the thickness sanders, though. I do think a jointer is a must. Good Luck. Nate Robinson

I read that article as well Doc! It was a surprise to me as well, but I think it was a fair assesment of the different wipe-on finishes readily available. Sobot, you could pull some very topic specific info from the article. Good Luck. Nate Robinson

I do it the same way unclej does, seams to due just fine. Nate Robinson

Looks simaliar to a redwood burl I saw a few months ago. Nate Robinson

Leave the guitar in front of the tv during late night programming. Seriously, I have no idea, but I'll watch with interest in case anyone comes up with something definitive. Nate Robinson

An interesting design, hope you keep us posted as you progress. BTW, welcome to the Forum! Nate Robinson

Nicely put together post, BigD! I see that your organizational skills are akin to my own. Though, I generally find it easier to find my tools when I "leave them where they lay". Once a month I tidy up and then spend three weeks trying to find everything! Nate Robinson

Fine Woodworking rated the panasonic top dog two years ago in their shop and tool review addition. I know a few guys who own them and they have nothing but good things to say. Myself, I run a trio of Bosch's. Two are 14.4 the other 18 - great cordless drills, my crew uses each close to two hours a day everyday. We have had two of the three for over two years. The batteries are still holding charge, and both 14.4's have been dropped from a height of 12' (DOHHHH!) At any rate I guess that it boils down to how much you use the tool versus how much you can afford to spend. One thing that does concern me though, is spending $250 on a cordless drill just to have the battery go bad from not being regularly(sp) cycled. Don't really know if this is a concern or not, but like I said I use mine daily so "battery memory" isn't really an issue. BTW a replacement battery for a 14.4 bosch "brute force" is around $80 at home depot. Any way that's what I know about that, hope is helps somebody one way or the other. Nate Robinson

Minwax has a spar varnish in the rattle cans. I used it on a neck a year ago, and I believe I got it from the local lumber yard( not a national chain I'm sorry to say - Bloedorn Lumber). You may be able to have your local hardware store order you a case or so. I found it to be fast drying, easy to recoat, seems to hold a shine, and only had to wait a week to buff it out. It does add a slight tint of yellow though, so beware. All in all pretty good stuff IMO. Nate Robinson

Leather is definently not my bag but, I had a custom arm guard made for me (for archery) at the local saddle shop. The leather was a natural color and hard as all get out (don't know if it comes other colors or not, but I would think so). The craftsman said he used "bull hide" leather for the guard. The stiffness is somewhere around that of 1/8" plexi. Maybe that helps maybe it doesn't, but that's all I know about leather. Good luck. Nate Robinson

I'm no electronic wiz, but I am reasonably sure that the switch doesn't affect the sound of the instrument. The disapearing wire is probably a ground to the bridge. Nate Robinson

my shop includes: 14" bandsaw 6" jointer 13" planer 10" miter saw 10" table saw drill press random orbit sander palm sander plunge/stable router #4, #5, #6, #7, #8 hand planes spoke shave rasps/files scrapers clamps, clamps, clamps............. chisels good straightedge good callipers sanding blocks radiusing blocks.....ya know there is absolutely no way I could acount for everything in the shop. But there is around $3000 invested in what I have already mentioned. I am a contractor by trade and tend to buy the best I can possibly get for longevity, but I doubt you would need to spend that much. Still, setting up any shop is no small investment in money, time, or space. The only thing in the list that I doubt most builders use is the miter saw, but I do use it so I put it in the list. Good luck getting set up and building the axes. Oh, and Welcome to the Forum! Nate Robinson