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Metalhead28

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Everything posted by Metalhead28

  1. Metalhead28
    I built this for myself a couple years ago, and this is the guitar that kicked off my interest in taking off with this body style. When I built it, I kept it simple with the hardtail bridge - but I've discovered that I will never pick it up without a trem, because it's too central to my style. (I'll end up building myself another one with a trem....eventually) It's a one of a kind, and there will never be another like it! I'm asking $1200 including a case. You can see all of the specs and some pictures here: http://www.stinnettguitars.com/available.htm Thanks!
  2. Metalhead28
    The owner of this guitar had jokingly declared the guitar's name "Ginger", so that's what I'm going with. "GINGER" 25.5" scale Maple/Mahogany/Wenge neck thru Mahogany body wings Quilted maple carved top & matching headstock cap Ebony fretboard, 12" radius 24 Stainless Steel medium jumbo frets Curly maple pickup mounting rings Curly maple truss rod cover w/ logo engraving and magnetic attachment Hipshot Hardtail bridge Seymour Duncan "P-Rails" pickup set Graphtech nut Sperzel locking tuners Nitrocellulose lacquer finish / oiled neck. The controls consist of a volume for each pickup, a three way toggle, and 2 microswitches to select HB/P90/Single-coil mode for each pickup. Here is the build thread: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=42928
  3. Metalhead28
    Really? This seems counterintuitive to me in every possible way. +2 Lay a thin piece of scrap or something on the top, rest the bit on that and not the corner of your bridge post hole. This is all but impossible to screw up in my experience.
  4. Metalhead28
    Thanks guys. Did a little video to demonsrate the pickups:
  5. Metalhead28
    Here is the finishing touch, the engraved TR cover: And a shot of the completed guitar: I should have a nice series of photos together pretty soon.
  6. Metalhead28
    It's about 10 minutes tops for me too. As long as you're careful getting started, the radius block pretty much guides itself. I use a really large radius block, and I've recently started clamping the block down and moving the neck across it instead of the other way around. It seems easier to move the neck in a straight line. That may just be me....
  7. Metalhead28
    Yes, use a router or a plane. I prefer to cut the angle on the body area. If you have to remove a lot of material, bandsaw it close, then clean it up with a plane or attach a straight edge and use a flush trimming router bit.
  8. Metalhead28
    Those bits are great. I was getting some tear out on the bottom corner at times because of the downcutting spiral shape - but a zero clearance insert solved that.
  9. Metalhead28
    I don't see how birdseye maple and walnut would get you where you want to be. What about mahogany? I've never done that combo, only the opposite - but I'm just adding that to your list of consideration. Why the maple body? Are you already commited to that?
  10. Metalhead28
    Just about buttoned up. Yes, the neck pickup is backwards - I was curious to know what it sounded like.
  11. Metalhead28
    Not really. And actually it was more like 3 months working on this one (among others) Actually, if I could keep the interruptions down I could get through them a hell of a lot faster. I'm working on that at the moment.
  12. Metalhead28
    It's all buffed and ready to go. Hope I can wrap up the rest this weekend.
  13. Metalhead28
    I would be shocked to find one that was straight.
  14. Metalhead28
    Thanks man!
  15. Metalhead28
    That only comes into play if you're making the whole neck thicker overall. If your fretboard was just a little thicker than normal, you could still make the neck the same overall thickness at the heel. And anyway, a tiny bit of difference could surely be handled by the saddle adjustment.
  16. Metalhead28
    It's been curing for a bit, will probably be ready for buffing toward the end of the week.
  17. Metalhead28
    Same here. They're murder on fret cutters, but I'm not sure what you're going to find that's any better.
  18. Metalhead28
    Looks bitchin either way. I was just curious.
  19. Metalhead28
    This build is great, I love Wolfgangs. Is it just me, or does the bridge look closer to the back end of the guitar than one would expect? Doesn't look bad or anything, I just wonder if it is a modified design.
  20. Metalhead28
    No, I don't think that looks odd, but that's sort of apples to oranges. There may be detail to it that I cannot see in that picture, but what I can see does sort of look like a route for an inlay. I'm not telling you that I think you screwed up - I'm just giving my opinion.
  21. Metalhead28
    I agree with the black epoxy idea 110% Without being filled in I think it just looks sort of odd.
  22. Metalhead28
    Draw it out and judge for yourself. 1/8" is typical between the E strings and the fretboard edge.
  23. Metalhead28
    Yeah, I think if I used anything darker it would have really taken away from the orange, and I wanted it bright. Like retina searing bright. Even in the end grain of the figuring I wanted it really bright, not with that extreme color contrast that you see in the examples Wez posted. As it is, it retains a lot of that three dimensional effect too. You can still rotate it in the light and see all sorts of interesting shifts. With the black in there one look would just blow the whole load with nothing extra to see in there. But like Wez said, that would probably reveal more of the figuring for a photograph - but I don't really like that approach.
  24. Metalhead28
    Mine, or those wretched Epiphones?
  25. Metalhead28
    I sold my first few for barely more than the parts. I feel more secure and capable now, so I've started raising my prices to actually make it worth my time, at least some of my time. Still, I think I'm pretty cheap, as I start out at around $1,000 and go up depending on the specs. But I don't have an established reputation, so of course I'm not going to charge a premium price. Also I have a day job - so I'm not trying to put food on the table with guitars. Just more tools in the workshop.
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