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thedoctor

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  1. thedoctor

    9v Ac

    thedoctor replied to cr_XD's topic in Electronics Chat

    You are using a digital meter, aren't you? Ignore the difference in RMS readings.
  2. thedoctor
    I would just like to share my experience with the "value" priced equip. that is sure to show up on this topic. Nothing M-Audio or ART makes is a bad deal. Pretty good stuff. Beringer, on the other hand, has some real quality-control issues they need to address. Switches, pots and power suppies. In that order. When it works, it be good. Remember, this is IMHO.
  3. thedoctor
    Those are board-mount sliders. 1 is low(counter-clockwise) either 2 is wiper (center) and 3 is high (clockwise). The two 2s are hooked together for PCB mounting.
  4. thedoctor
    If you aren't using a trim ring to mount it, you might try what I use to body-mount humbuckers. Cut a piece of thin (1/2") foam like they ship new pickups in to fit behind the pickup and pull the PUP down to compress it. With only 2 screws, you may have to screw with the placement of the foam a bit but it has worked well for me. If you are using a trim ring, I would suggest stuffing some of the same around the ends (not the sides) of the PUP between the trim ring and the mount flange of the PUP. I know I am always pushing the front edge of the EMGs on my bass down when it annoys me cause THEY tilt some just to tick me off. Talk about a PUP with attitude!
  5. thedoctor
    It's a personal thing, mostly. I play cello and love short-scale basses. Thats why I like a radiused fretboard. It kind of helps center your finger-force or something to that effect. I chord on basses all the time but don't think the radius helps in that respect. Have you ever (you say you have, duh) played a dead-flat bass? It seems a little unnatural to me. Once again, IMHO.
  6. thedoctor
    Those other ones are LSRs and I like them. .058 is about all they will take. You can play around with the mounting angles a little but they still look kinda "mech-tech" and clunky. They are standard on my neckthrough 7-strings.
  7. thedoctor
    Olddog, when I am technically able I will post a picture of my 1967 Sony Walkman. And my Studio bass. If you sit on a good idea long enough you will get bypassed by people who are "GETTING IT DONE".
  8. thedoctor
    I think I would go with a graphite nut and cut it yourself. Buy three(they are cheap) and don't glue them at all until you know you got a keeper.
  9. thedoctor
    Saddle slots are not used on a lot of guitars, specialy 'coustics, if the string retainer spacing is decent. For that matter, a lot of necks are made with "zero frets" which is a fret where the nut would be. This assumes good string retainer spacing or a "pre-nut" if you will. I think the guitars with solid wire saddles/zero-nuts show an ease-of-tuning that you can't find except on the latest self-lube nut/saddle materials. That is IMHO Remember, intonation will still have to be set by angling the bridge and it will be a bit of a compromise in that you can't set each string idividualy. Close enough for government work.
  10. thedoctor
    I only wish to address the trem-stability issue. Locking tuners are not my thing. After spending a bunch of time trying to get trems to return to perfect tune and forgive detuning, I found that someone else found the same thing. With a standard Strat trem, you need a return-to-center system that takes you right back to where you were before you hit the bar. (Whoa, there's one for the wife). Hipshot makes an add-on that kinda does this but they also make a trem that all but eliminates the problem with springs not being able to do this reliably. They use ultra-low friction bearings instead of a knife-edge and it is very repeatable. When you set the trem plate very flat, it is also forgiving. I'm sure I will find out why in a day or two but I really don't know why more people don't use their trems. I see them as a superior design. IMHO
  11. thedoctor
    IMHO, there is more profit and less trouble involved in repairing the stuff people have already spent too much money for. Unless you have a real deep niche you fill or are a true guitar-building artist(bunch of em on this forum) you aren't gonna make even beer money making cool axes with good components. Not even Keystone Light.
  12. thedoctor
    If you could, tell us what switch setup you are using. There may be a solution depending on the switch.
  13. thedoctor
    Okay, lets not call it stereo. Lets call it TRS (tip, ring, sleeve). The negative from your battery goes to the ring terminal of the jack so that when a 1/4" plug is inserted, the ring and the sleeve(ground) are connected, thereby providing negative battery to the ground of the beast. Unplugged, no negative.
  14. thedoctor
    Don't feel bad. I still think it is kind of creepy to be putting those screws through that thin, flimsy crap, too. I've even thought abought getting some of those J-nut thingies to put real metal in the pickup-mount but, so far, it hasen't been needed.
  15. thedoctor
    I hope some of the big guns jump in on this topic because I am unclear on the concept of carbon stiffeners. I don't grasp the effect they have very well. Also, Warmoth now makes a side-adjust neck that I have used and found to be GREAT! I wonder if this feature could be incorporated in your neck rebuild. The adjuster is right at the cutaway and is a slice of heaven to fine-adjust!
  16. thedoctor
    Now, dangit, SOMEBODY makes an effect that you can set the bass-baffle and horn speed seperate! I saw it and thought how cool that they really understood the Leslie sound. I'm gonna reread all the crap I read last week and find that booger. Let you know.
  17. thedoctor
    Lovecraft, have you suddenly developed a stutter? Or hiccups?
  18. thedoctor
    Well, that Dunlop is new to me but it looks like it MIGHT fit the bill. It is returnable, in any case. What I thought was important is that for true Leslie effect, the tweeter (horn) and the rotating main baffle spun at different speeds. I used to change belt-tension on the Hammond units to get what "artists" thought was the right "slip" between the two. They would fall into phase and out of phase on a (to me) random pattern. Hendrix didn't fool with any of that phase-relation stuff, if that is what you are after. My customers were keyboard people ( with the exception of Taj) and they Knew when the belts were loose enough. Go figure.
  19. thedoctor
    Explain the body style to me. Shielding of a solid-body is best done with the copperfoil/tape but some body styles make that impossible. If you are dealing with cavities carved/routed out of solid wood, copperfoil is the best. Semi-hollows take a completely different treatment. The conductive paint is not only a comprimise IMHO but you can do the coppershield faster and cheaper. You can solder to the coppershields and you don't have to mask off anything to do it. Also, no drying time. If you are looking at two output jack orifices (which I think you are) the output jack holes need to be shielded as well. Then all shielding needs to be hooked together with a seperate ground conductor. The pockets for the output jacks is where I always have problems. Seems any stray strands always find the shielding.
  20. thedoctor
    As the others have said, we don't know what your daughter even wants. That aside, I haven't seen a kit that has been worth the ease of getting all the parts at once. Something is always comprimised in the process of assembling a "fits-everyone" kit. There is also the issue of building versus buying. It is cool to build a relative a guitar. A lot of my output goes to relatives who want to start playing or get a better axe. If they stay with it, great. If they lose interest in a year, I want my axe back. VERY hard to pull off. Balance your desire to create a work of love with the very real possibility that this could be a passing fancy.
  21. thedoctor
    Sambo, I have been wrong before (lord knows) but Rickenbacher and Ed Roman NEVER have! Just ask Ed! lol lol lol lol, etc. By the way, there will be no RFI, GMC, TWA or UFO interference problems with this jack/switch. It just has to make "decent" connection when the tip and ring fingers come together. Don't know the body style of this axe but shield everything, when possible. As always!
  22. thedoctor
    If you can live with the tone control for the bridge being active all the time and no volume control for the bridge, yeah. Have you considered putting the control plate in backwards? I had to do that for a couple of guys who get lost in the moment once in a while and forget where they are. Extreme cases but, hey. As the Texans say, it don't take all kinds of people to make up the world: we just gots all kinds!
  23. thedoctor
    Ahhh! The old Hammond B3 with knee Leslie speed switch! Love it! I have an old J-Station with a pedal board that you can assign the parameter of the rotary speaker effect as percent, speed or swell to the pedal. Out of production but I believe the Boss pedals with rotary(stereo, no less) have a parameter selection that allows you to assign the pedal as speed. Same thing with the Pods but I don't own the pedal for a Pod so I haven't ever tried it.
  24. thedoctor
    For grins, go to www.diyguitarist.com. Guy's nuts but lotsa pedal/box ideas.
  25. thedoctor
    Yeah, just use #4 or #6 wood screws but be careful about the length. Don't want no sharpies sticking out the back. I cut some of the foam that SD pickups come in and use it as a thin compression spacer behind the pickup and pull the pickup down against that. Don't drill the holes any bigger if you don't have to. Pan-head sheet metal screws work well also and the head looks less out-of-place. You can get them it stainless if that matches your hardware. Gotta add, I've only built two 7-strings because I didn't like them. I ended up making one for myself after playing the second one with two humbuckers. 7-strings are a different breed! I built mine with two seperate soundpaths for stereo. Next one, I am going to try two 6-string pickups offset by one string and stereo output. May be wasting my time but I'm having fun.
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