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Daniel Sorbera

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Everything posted by Daniel Sorbera

  1. Very nice. I'm in love with that tight flame and the color of that top. Another great guitar! :D
  2. Sanding off the finish won't cause stability issues at all. Just make sure that if you want to change the neck profile that you don't go through to the truss rod.
  3. All will be made clear with the knobs on and a zoomed in shot. hmm I just realized I don't have any really good pictures of it, but basically it's a half moon slope thats about 1/4" wide. You can kinda see it here. You know what I just thought? That red makes the guitar look like a big strawberry. So I officially dub the guitar strawberry, and that is now strawberry red.
  4. Also using a good sandpaper (I use micromesh) will dramatically reduce the corns building up on the sandpaper. I sand with just a little bit of water and don't get any build up at all, the only thing that comes off is dust that wipes off because of the water.
  5. Well if it makes you feel better the finish looked like blood in the cup.
  6. I didn't want deep, I wanted super bright. I call it strawberry red But it is a bit deeper in person.
  7. Picture time! I love this red. It still needs to be sanded/buffed and put together. These pictures were from in the booth after 1 coat of clear was on the color.
  8. Spraying is all done. Turned out really good. It's a nice deep red color. Now I just have to wait a week for the finish to cure than buff it out.
  9. I'm not sure if you have that fingerboard in the correct position
  10. Yeah it seems people assume that because you built it it's for sale or something. I play one at a gig and people are just randomly like "so how much do you want for it?" as I think to myself, "umm yeah I never said it's for sale". I mean people don't just randomly ask people if they want to sell their PRS's or taylors
  11. Thats a good price for that blank. I'm sure someone will pick it up soon. Unfortunately I don't have any money right now or I'd buy the charity guitar in a heartbeat. Good on ya for giving.
  12. Looks pretty good, but the horns just don't flow for me. The upper one looks too long and the lower one is too pointy and stretched away from the body. It's a great take though, keep refining your design and building.
  13. Me? I play mostly mainstream christian rock on electric, (Anberlin, Switchfoot, Skillet, Kutless and stuff like that) and whatever the heck I feel like on acoustic, mostly rhythm stuff. But this guitar isn't for me, it's for a guy named Paul. Currently I don't even own an electric guitar as I've sold them all. But I'm building myself a swamp ash double cut (same shape as this one) that I'm promising myself I wont sell. (like that will ever happen)
  14. The pencil marks were just the bridge outline used earlier, it's not recessed, it just has a neck angle. The swoosh is what the customer wants, so it stays It's the same guy who got the last single cut with this exact wood combo and the swoosh on the headstock. and yeah the sound of the last one was on the bright side, but not over bright at all, just well defined. Perfect for the kind of music this guy plays. BTW the body is all carved now and I'm fretting the neck (among other things) today.
  15. You mean for the kerfed lining? I've never heard of spruce being used. I have used both mahogany and basswood depending on what color I want for that guitar.
  16. First of all every POD is designed to work direct, with headphones, going into an amp, or in the amps effect loop. If your running it through an amp turn off all cab modeling. But don't stop there. You will most likely have to change your stored sounds a bit to account for the radically different environment it's now running through. I have completely different patches on my pocket pod for my headphones, computer speakers, and tube amp.
  17. It's definitely 3/16" exactly. But just to be on the safe side I'll try it out at homedepot today before ordering a new one.
  18. One of my guitars (1980's ibanez barreta) has a stripped out adjustment nut for the truss rod. I found a small bolt that the current adjustment nuts threads onto perfectly and there seems to be between 8 and 10 threads per 1/4" (since thats the only length of bolt I can get) it's hard to tell. and 3/16" diameter. All of the replacement adjustment nuts I've found are 10-32 which is 3/16" diameter with 32 threads per inch. The only thing is it's very hard to tell if my rod is indeed 32 threads per inch... So what are the odds that ibanez used a different thread than what seems to be standard?
  19. Bracing looks a bit on the heavy side, but whatever. FWIW I usually don't brace the top/back until the sides are ready to glue them to. That way the top/back doesn't sit around with bracing on it but nothing holding it in place keeping it from warping.
  20. The only thing that looks out of place is the headstock. Maybe an ebony overlay would have looked good. I really like it though. Definitely continue to refine this design. It's unique, but classy.
  21. Well I don't know what people think on the subject, but I had an acoustic (my first acoustic build) that was finished first in nothing, than I sprayed it in clear gloss, than stripped it all off and finished it in oil which is how it stands now. The biggest difference was from no finish to the clear coat. It became a lot brighter and much quieter. I couldn't tell a difference between no finish and the tru-oil finish. Granted that was nothing even close to a scientific test, so take this with a grain of salt.
  22. Very nice. I like all the elegant touches, makes it look really cool. But your action looks a bit high and your bridge is all the way down. Do you have the right neck angle on it?
  23. Yeah non-refundable means nothing if they sold you the wrong item.
  24. Epoxy has great cohesion, meaning that it sticks well to itself and will create a very strong hold in a gap. Titebond has great adhesion meaning that if you have a perfect joint (ie no gaps, which should be every joint on your guitar) titebond will create a bond much much stronger than epoxy ever could on wood. The only time you should ever use epoxy is to glue something that has a gap in it. There is a reason everyone uses wood glue for wood, it works the best. and @ jmrentis, a well planed surface > scraped which is > sanded for gluing.
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