Narcissism

Not true. The problem with the neck is that its a 34" scale neck, but the body turns it into a 35" scale, thereby giving me a bit of an intonation problem. Its not that i want it to be a 34" scale, its that it IS a 34" scale neck, but the neck pocket isn't routed correctly for it, so it adds an inch and gives me an intonation. Basically, routing out the body would fix my intonation problem, but i like having the option of switching back to a fretted neck because i like to play slap sometimes. I can play slap on a fretless, but it just doesn't sound the same. I like playing fretless though, because of the sound and the feel. I hate making slides or jumping scales with frets bumping into my pinky... Yet i continue to scallop frets 12-24 on all of my guitars... ANYWAY: Good idea on the stud finder! I never would have thought about that! This is why i come here; I'm always missing something, and you all find it for me. So thanks a lot! I'm going to try to chop an inch off and make it look pretty. Wish me luck!

Well i've come to an interesting fork in the road. Here's what i've got: I've got a modified bass. I ordered a neck from Ken Francis. Basically, what happened, was i gave him the dimensions on my bass, a few measurements or something were missed, and now i have a 35" scale with a neck and body that are meant for a 34" scale. The neck pocket isn't deep enough to hold the fretless neck as it adds an inch to the scale. I didn't know that until i started building a bass and i decided to measure. For the longest time i couldn't figure out why my fretless sounded flat or sharp. I thought i was just sucking at playing it or something. Anyway, I was wondering if i should route out the neck pocket or not. By routing out the neck pocket, i lose the ability to change back to my fretted neck. Buying another bass, is an option too, but small apartments don't have much room in them. The other option is to chop off an inch of the fretless neck i ordered. The problem with this isn't the cosmetics or the loss of a 21st fret (its a bass, come on lol), but i'm worried about hitting the truss rod. Does anyone know if a Carvin bolt on 34" scale bass neck has a truss rod channel that runs all the way to the 20th or 21st fret? Because i'd rather just do that. Thanks in advance!

Feel free to comment guys I take criticism very well! Good, bad, ugly, i can take it! This is a learning experience for me, as well as a way for me to fight my dyslexia. So if you have comments on this, but don't want to post because you're afraid of hurting my feelings or stirring up tension between you and myself, don't worry about it! I LOVE FEEDBACK! For example: Svartberg, I really don't know which wing you're talking about, but i'm going to assume you're talking about the bottom one. Basically, i know that wing doesn't work for everyone, but right now i know it works for me, so i'm pretty sure i'm not going to change it. However, contour lines may come into effect, and they may end up making it look smaller which will be more appealing to other viewers. Black labb, the strat input jack idea sounds great! Only the place where i want to put the controls is a little out of the way. However, i have a crazy idea for creating a control cavity, pickup wire route, and a side input jack all in one shot. I flubbed the part where you're supposed to rout a channel for the pickup wires to go to the control cavity. The channel got full of glue and doesn't really seem like an option anymore. Anyone have ideas for that? I didn't see anything in the neckthrough tutorials, as most of them involve a laminate top. Perhaps there is a tool that i don't know about?

Boycott Monster Cable http://www.monstergreed.com/Index%20with%2...0about%20MC.htm *shrugs* i spent 50 dollars 6 years ago, and i got an amazing cable. If my cable ever fails, i can return it and get another one, no charge. I've done it once, and i'll never have to buy a cable again. Monster can have their "Monster" if i can continue to get my free cables. Metallica sued a 60 year old guy for making a wheel rim called the "Metallica." Words get copyrighted. Gene Simmons owns the rights to the word "it."

I went to my music shop and specifically bought a Monster "speaker cable"

I think they're called bushings. I'm pretty sure if you don't have them, that you can probably find them at a local hardware store

I finally gained some balls and "dug in." I don't really have any powertools for sanding anymore because of the move to VT, but i can make due with what i have, and i can make the instrument more "personal" by using hand tools. I did all this contouring using a chisel/file, a hammer, and various grits of sand paper ranging from 60 to 400. I lost my 600 sheet which kinda sucks, but i'm going to go over the entire body with all the grits one more time before I finish it anyway. So here's my contouring work: and some progress pix Doing this makes me want to do a lot more to the body, but i'm going to hold off for a few days and see what else i can think up. I really don't want to overdo it, since i'm kinda freehanding the contours. The color contrast on the sanded part is due to the wipe down i did with lemon oil to protect the wood from moisture during the move. This bass is going to be VERY red when i put the poly on it!

That's very pretty! I love how the flame maple just pops like that. The flame and walnut is always a good contrast in my eyes. Good job!

i use a brush *thumbs up*

i'm at about 430 on tools right now. i still need painting supplies, a belt sander, some new routing bits(expensive!) and a spokeshave though.

wow, i really like that! I love how you have that little sliver of black on the scarf joint. the blue top is priceless, and i love the grain pattern on the rest of the body. Very cool!

very nice! i like the recessed electronics cavities.

or it could be a sustainer switch, 1 vol, 1 tone, 1 LED switch, and maybe a MIDI input/output?

Gotcha, See, i didn't know that i'd have to alter the pot a little bit. I ended up having to take that top "tag" and unsolder it from the case, because that completed the ground. it came in the EMG pickup box like that. I learned a lot in this post! Well... I learend enough to play around and make some crazy sounds. Hey, is this like... an opening into making stomp boxes and fx processors?

Nevermind, i figured out what you meant! I have a tone knob now! Thank you very much psw! I really appreciate it. That cap/blob had me confused for the longest time. I think that's actually what got me in the spot i was earlier today when i had just two volume knobs. Thanks again!

should the cap not be connected to both pins (1, 3, ground) or should it just be connected to pin 1 and ground?

Sorry about that... Here's the original wiring diagram Compared to my wiring: http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w13/dar...ko/IMG_1016.jpg The only way i can describe how the tone pot works right now is to upload an audio file, and unfortunately i don't have a mic on the computer. Sorry about the cryptic writing, but I'm a little dyslexic, so its kind of hard for me to put into words what's going through my mind. Building a guitar is kinda like therapy for me. Lets see... Lets say ---------------+ would be the tone knob turned all the way up Lets say +-------------- would be the tone knob turned all the way down Lets say -------+-------- would be the tone knob turned half way up/down ---------+ puts out no sound through the amp +--------- puts out no sound through the amp -----+----- puts out sound as if the volume were turned all the way up. The two volume knobs work like normal volume pots would if you have the tone knob at ---------+--------- That ^ would be the output of the current configuration that i have wired up. The input jack i have is the original factory Ibanez jack, and the pins on it are backwords compared to a standard output jack... So that means: Pin 1 = Pin 3 Pin 2 = Pin 2 Pin 3 = Pin 1 I don't know if they're called pins, but i'm using the word pin, because that's what they're called in computers. They're the things that you solder things to that aren't the case of the pot... :D I'm pretty sure that everything else wired up the same as on the EMG diagram. It looks like the EMG diagram doesn't call for a cap, but there's something on the tone knob on the diagram that looks like it could be a cap, or it could be a blob of solder with 1 wire going to pin 1 and another wire going to pin 3, then the body of the pot... If none of this makes sense, i'm just going to shoot a youtube video and post a link to it, lol.

For about 3 years now, i've had a bass that i wanted to wire with 2 pickups, 2 volumes and 1 tone. I wired it up according to the EMG wiring diagram from their website, and there's a spot on the tone pot on the diagram that made no sense to me. So i just wired past it and delt with having only 2 volume knobs and a tone knob that didn't really do anything. Yesterday i decided "Hey, i want a tone knob damnit." So i got out a diagram and started wiring it up! Now, I've got it wired pretty gosh darn close to the wiring diagram... exactly on if i'm not mistaken. Here's my problem: The tone on the bass is on full trebel side now for both pickups. The volume knobs work properly as far as i can tell, but the tone knob is being... weird. It acts sort of like a volume knob only it'll... Okay, when its turned all the way in one direction, or all the way in the other, the volume is completely off. If you turn the tone knob to the middle, the volume is all the way up. Here's my wiring: The input jack is backwords from a normal input jack, so i believe i have it wired correctly. Any help is greatly appreciated!

That's a pretty sweet lookin bass! It definately needs to be smeared in blood though!

So i'm sitting here tuning up my snowboard, melting wax into the base of the board so i can scrape it off. Basically, as everyone knows, p-tex is what the bottom of skies and snowboards are made of. P-tex is a plastic that works well under high heat and friction. Anywho, P-tex has pores in it. So what do you to to get rid of pores in anything? You wax/polish it! That way, the wax fills in the holes, thereby reducing friction and allowing you a nice easy smooth ride down the hill. You have to scrape excess wax off with a straight edge in order to achieve a smooth finish though. So i got to thinking about grainfilling... And then i noticed a thread where someone was using bees wax on top of a polyurethane finish to make it look nice and smooth and slick. Soooooooo... can i use wax as a grainfiller? Or does Polyeurethane have the same properties as clay glaze where it'll just avoid all the areas that the wax is... crap, this sounds like a bogus idea lol. Either way, what do you all think?

I say, measure the width of your neck at the bridge and nut end. Then figure out your scale lenghth. Then figure out how wide your bridge needs to be using those measurements. that will narrow down your search as to what bridge to get. You can look at bridges on various websites listed in the supplies section of the Project Guitar website. As far as pickups go, you're going to have to choose those on your own. Everyone likes a different sound, and there's not really a pickup out there that'll "wear out." over time. Well.. maybe there is, but i haven't found one with complaints about that yet.

kinda reminds me of a mockingbird only with a few more balls

That's pretty sweet. I see what you mean about the string angling off, but that shouldn't be anything to worry about i guess. I dont' know if anyone else has anything to say about it though. Personally, i wouldn't be worried about it. I was looking through the tutorials, and it looks like you can just keep adding coats of clear finish to it. Eventually a bunch of coats, the lines around the decal should disappear. You can check that out here: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/logo.htm

that's cool! I miss doing that stuff with CNC mills. I miss CAD too lol. I like all the little details, like how you can use one for both sides of the guitar weather you want to have a pickguard or not.

Meh, my bass's headstock does that, but the luthier that put the tuners in didn't even know that it was an issue. It ended up splitting the plastic nut he put on there. So i went out and got myself a nice brass one with height adjustment screws built right into it. Action is beautiful, the brass nut sounds great and it looks nice. I doubt guitar strings will pull hard enough to split the nut you have on there though. Its also why someone invented string trees *thumbs up*