GodBlessTexas

You just missed one on eBay that went pretty cheap. Needed some real TLC, and the top had been butchered, so it would have been great for a retop. It ended last week. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Jackson. The scale length is 25.5" and it's the same for the BC Rick Kerry King V. For the Jackson: NECK DIMENSIONS 1st Fret: .775”, 12th Fret: .910” NO. OF FRETS 24 Jumbo Frets SCALE LENGTH 25.5” WIDTH AT NUT 1-11/16” UNIQUE FEATURES Compound (12” to 14”) Fingerboard Radius Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Yep. Vote With a Bullet is still one of my favorite songs. I also like Dance of the Dead. They're still around. Someone was stabbed to death at one of their shows in the last two months. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I hope you licensed the NOS logo from Holley Performance Products, since it is their trademark. Other than that, I dig it. I like the valve cover look. Since your site is down, how much do you ask for one? Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Wow. That's really nice. I can't wait to see what you do with it. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I just saw today that kids have been dying because they've been choking/fainting themselves to get high. I knew kids who did that in high school (mostly freshmen girls), and I never understood it. I always preferred beer. As far as CO2, it'll get cold. Just about any compressed gas that's allowed to escape a pressurized vessel should get chilly. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Yeah, exactly like that. I want to build a symmetrical SG, and I think what you just posted looks good. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I think it would look better if it were symmetrical in the SG horns. The V bottom is, and it's proven that humans like symmetry. Other than that, I like it. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Yes, you can do it. Parker coats the back of their guitars in carbon fiber, so there's no reason you cannot do it in fiberglass. I don't know if it will get you anything, but I'd certainly be interested to see your results. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Did the guitars in question look like this: http://www.johnnyhickman.com/Guitars/flag.htm Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

That's exactly what I was saying. You want the carbon fiber to run parallel to the fretboard. If you use it like you would in a traditional wood laminated neck, it runs perpendicular to the fretboard. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Given that laminated (meaning infused with resin) carbon fiber cloth in a flat sheet has all of it's strength on the flat surface, wouldn't it be ideal to laminate it parallel to the fretboard? I guess it depends on what aspect of the neck you're trying to stiffen. To get some bearings on orientation, let's assume you're holding the guitar strapped to you as if you were playing it. If you use carbon fiber in the traditional way that guitar necks are built, with the material running perpendicualr to the fretboard, then the support will help keep the neck from twisting or being bent up towards the cieling or down towards the floor. But it won't provide strenth to keep the neck from being pulled towards the body along the strings. Of course, it will provide increased strenght along that axis if it is laminated thick enough. That is one of the reasons why rods are used so frequently. As far as I-beams go, I'm not quite sure how applicable it is to the construction of guitar necks. Of all the graphite/carbon fiber reinforced necks I've seen, they fall into two categories: Wood necks reinforced with carbon rods - the most common, probably because it's easy to do and requires about as much work as putting a truss rod in a neck. Wood necks reinforced with an outer overlay of carbon fiber - Parket guitars, though actually the entire back of the body and neck is overlayed in one piece of cloth. The best solution in my opinion because it protects the neck from warping and twisting because the cloth is oriented on axis. No arguments there. But the rod has the advantage of providing stiffness parallel and perpendicular to the fretboard. A laminated sheet will only provide support along the weave of the cloth. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

A good thermos would probably be better, and you have to be EXTREMELY careful with that stuff. You won't be playing guitar anymore if you get that stuff on your hands. I remember dipping hot dogs in that stuff in high school chemistry and then shattering them to prove the point to the freshman that it wasn't stuff to be played with. I loved being the lab manager. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Freon. Unfortunately, it's expensive, requires a license to get, and the EPA fines you for venting it to atmosphere due to CFC's. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

In other posts I've mentioned that I have worked with carbon fiber, kevlar and fiberglass in composites plastics. Carbon fiber is nothing more than graphite threads woven into a fabric. Carbon fibger/graphite rods are usually made by shredding carbon fibers, mixing them with epoxy, and forming them to the desired shape. I've even seen steel rods in carbon fiber sleeves infused with epoxy for use in the RC plane modelling hobby. Carbon fabric comes in two types of fabrics: unidirectional and bidirectional. This indicates where the strength is along the surface of the cloth. Unidirectional cloths only have strength along one axis, while bidrectional cloth has it across both axis of the weave. However, if you plan on laminating actual carbon fiber cloth, you might be defeating your intended purpose by doing it perpendicular to the headstock like most traditonal laminates. Since the strength of the carbon fiber cloth is along the surface of the cloth, you will be reinforcing any play in the neck towards the body, but not providiny much additional support as it would pertain to backbow or neck relief. Carbon rods are different because they provide reinforcement along both surfaces of the square rod because they are essentially made up of unwoven fibers. For guitar necks, 2" 5oz 3k plain weave carbon fiber tape should be suitable. It runs $64.95 for 10yds at http://www.fiberglast.com, who I have bought from in the past. They also have a very helpful forum with lots of pros and hobbyists, but most seem to be centered around model rocektry, boating, and racing. And West Systems Epoxy will work great for laminating wood and carbon fiber. It's designed for use in boat building, and it works great. However, for the carbon reinforcement to be effective, you need to have very little resin content in the fabric, and I highly suggest using a vacuum bagging setup instead of clamping. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Some thoughts: As with what the others have said, the rythm guitar is way boomy. There's a bass guitar in there somewhere, but you can only hear it for that brief breakdown in the middle. Overall, that sounds nothing like any nu metal I've heard. I like it. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Holy crap. I finally got to check this out and I cannot believe how bad that is. I think Zakk has officially gone off the deep end. I can appreciate the sentiment, and he and Dime appeared to be getting pretty close in their friendship before he died, but damn. That's about every negative thing it was described as. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

One of the woodworking mags did an article on cheap tools, including many from horror freight (sorry, I've had bad experiences with the company). They sampled a dozen power tools or so ranging from sanders to chordless drills. They found that all in all it was a mixed bag. Some tools worked well, while others weren't worth it. For the most part, I think their hand tools are all ok and I haven't had a problem with any that I own. If I need a tool and I can't buy a good one new, like when my wife says she'll divorce me if I spend any more money, I try to rent it, borrow it from a friend (always return it promptly if you want to borrow it again), or buy it used at a pawn shop. If I can't do any of that, I use what I have and plan on purchasing the tool at a later date if I think I'll need it again. Man, I really miss all the tools I used to have access to before I moved. I gave some of them away as compensation for helping me move. I hear some of them ended up in the pawn shop to support a gambling habit. I came really close to picking up another table saw two weeks ago, but bought a Strat instead. Oh well. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Same here. That is really starting to look awesome. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

What blade are you using? One of the Diablo style blades with the stabilizing cuts or one of those blades with the brass inserts to stabilize? I'm sure you know that if your blade has any play at all you're going to get a less than flat joint surface out of a table saw, so with that said I'd love to see your jig. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

You can use the method on this site with an oven to help determine what the moisture content is if you don't have a moisture meter. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I believe you are the winner. Nicely done. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I'm always slow to trust a salesman of any type because I've found most don't know what they are talking about. Usually guys who work in music shops are players, so they should have a background in what they're talking about an be more easily trusted, but I've still heard some funny disinformation coming from guys who play and should know better than to say what they're saying. (HOLY RUN ON SENTENCE, BATMAN!) Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

But I do have a better understanding of it now, even if I don't agree with it. I can understand the appeal, but I believe character on an instrument is earned by putting it to use. As was stated after your post (I read ahead), relicing is like posing. It's like some kid who shaves his head and says he's always been punk, or a kid who put away his dockers and claims to be "metal" the day he heard a Children of Bodom or Killswitch Engage track. It's a fabrication. My new instruments don't stay "new" for long. Sure, I clean them, pamper them as best I can, and try to take good care of them as best I can, but there isn't one that I actually play that doesn't have scratches, a ding or two, and a few more imperfections. The thing is, those imperfections got there by playing the things. That "appropriately aged" look didn't get there with sandpaper, a chain, or any other artificial aging process. I'd love to get a 57 style strat (though I prefer the 70's headstyle), but I'd want it new so that what character it developed came honestly from me, or from someone else if I bought a used instrument. Hell, my favorite used Jazz bass has enough character to border on abused/neglected because it was gigged and played the hell out of. I guess I just value that type of genuine character. My Jazz Bass, my Warlock, and my Strat would disagree, depending on your definition of relic. If I still had them, my old SG, transition Roadstar (Roadstar II body with era correct RG style modern neck), and Mockinbird would all beg to differ, as they had enough dings, dents, and love taps to show they were played out and often. Hell, just do a search for "relic" on ebay under musical instruments and look at all the modern beater instruments you can find. Absolutely. I'm not trying to change anyone's opinions. I'm just trying to have a better understand of what people appreciate about them. I certainly have a better understanding now, but my opinion of reliced instruments still hasn't changed, even if my understanding of the draw to them has. To each his own, obviously. But would it help if I dared you? Ok, somewhat off topic on guitars, but not relicing. Last year my church wanted some crosses to display with a worn, weathered look. One of the guys in my Sunday School class has a construction company, and he spent a couple hours one day building three of them. Then he drug them out back of the shop and proceeded to beat them with a chain while his foreman and the crew, who are almost all Hispanic, watched. He said they were horrified at what he was doing, with many of them crossing themselves and muttering prayers. We got a big kick out of it at church. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Right, but instead of simulating play wear, couldn't you give it some real playwear? That's my point. I'd rather say "you see that nick there? I got it doing..." than "yeah, I did that with some shoe polish and some 120 grit sandpaper." That's real character, and easily done, especially if you play out/gig, aren't careful with your axe, or have kids. Is the appeal having a guitar that looks like a 1950's guitar found 50+ years alter, or a guitar 50 years old that looks new that can age with you? I know guys who'd give a testicle to find a perfectly preserved 40-50 year old Strat that's been stored in a case by some Grandma. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...