Supernova9

Indeed the pod xt does not record and let you mix/edit tracks, just lets you control the tone. For the recording part you need some kind of software like pro tools/cubase.

It's different depending on the height of the bridge, the height of the frets and fretboard above the body, over the scale length involved.

Seymour Duncan's Own Website has dimensions for the pickups. Just navigate to the ones you want.

I've just made a fullsize copy of the strat headstock. PM me your email address and I'll send it to you.

Go to the Fender Website, look at a strat model (the more detailed, enlarged pictures they do). That gives you a nice high-res front-on shot that you can then scale up to real size for the outline then customize.

Setch on this board is in London, you could try him, he's done work for people on here before, and the results always look very clean.

Says the man with the biggest pin router in the US

Fraid photos won't help. You need to see inside the neck, to see where the truss rod is, to know how much you can sand off the bottom, because if you leave too little wood underneath the rod, the neck could snap completely. Seriously, make another neck or buy a similar scaled Ibanez wizard neck. Sell this one you take off to recoup some of the cash?

I don't think it would. In a neck-thru the sound comes predominantly from the neck woods, so as the purpleheart is only a small portion of the less-determinant tone wood (the body wings), I don't think it'll have too great an effect. There are people on here who've built almost completely purpleheart guitars, with maple necks, and they've not complained (Drak's iceman-ish guitar iirc).

You could try copying this tutorial (click here) and using some mock snake-skin fabric. Enough clear coat etc and it could look like an airbrush design at a fraction of the cost. Of course, the difficulty comes in finding snakeskin fabric that looks how you want....

If you're building them for yourself, it shouldn't be a problem. Copyright laws come into play when you try to sell the guitars using said features.

Look for Titebond yellow glue.

Yes you can remove some wood, general suggestions I've seen on here previous suggest that you need to leave at least 1/2" left on the sides of the guitar, and a hefty portion around the bridge and neck joints. It will affect the sound, but I wouldn't have thought it'd be very notable. If removing that wood doesn't make enough of a weight difference, you could always rout off 1/4" from the top, chamber the whole guitar, then put on a top (some nice maple or something always looks nice imo).

Ah yes, very helpful. That thread's from sometime before I stumbled into this place... After reading toddler's thread, I'm kind of tempted to go for a neck through instead...no mussing with neck pockets, tenons...and I'd be able to add the angle to my template BEFORE routing the laminates, right? Now all I gotta do is find a fretted fretboard... ← I misread your thread title - I thought you were already asking about a neck through blank, my bad. But yeah, you can make the template for the entire cross section then before you begin to build. (Which for me is a great thing, because then you HAVE to draw it out fullsize, and accurate, without diving straight in) As for the fretted fretboard - c'mon man, you can do it! Buy a pre-radiused fretboard, make sure the slots are clean and deep enough, then you're there! (I know you can't cover it with a pickguard if it goes wrong, but hey )

You've been around long enough to see toddler68's neck through (remember that one with 7 stripes in the neck, paduak in the centre?) - he used the method of cutting the neck profile and scarf joint and transitions etc before gluing, and it worked well. Only problem would be that I think it's harder to keep it all aligned while gluing like that, and leaves less margin for error if you need to plane surfaces down flat again due to creep etc. I'm building a neck-through bass at the moment, and I did what you suggest, roughing it out (gave it an extra 3 mm on thickness of neck profile etc, and on curves), and it's going well. I wouldn't have gone down to exact dimensions before glue-up though. Edit: Try This Thread for toddler68's guitar. First post has a pic....

I love the second one in that: "The most realistic relicing outside of the Fender Custom shop" Yeah, 'cept for the pristine back....

Ok Guys, simple question. Wondering where I can find a UK-based supplier that stocks waterbased stains with Blue and Black (Craft Supplies doesn't stock Black in their catalogue ) Anyone have any ideas? I know Axminster stock Chestnut Spirit - but that's alcohol based....

I always laugh at completely vague and ambiguous threads like this one. Completely lacking in any information that would help us give you a better suggestion. For example, If you want a great playing guitar, I hear Tom Anderson guitars are great for that. Of course, I wonder if you've got $2000+ to spend? Tell us what music you want to play and your general budget, would help people make far better suggestions for you. Also, I can't believe the number of people in this thread that made suggestions without even asking those questions.

I'd say option 1, simpler, and easier to do. As for problems with polls not having enough options for 12 entries, if that is actually the case, a solution could be to put the guitars in a thread and have people post as a vote, rather than use the poll options. Then someone could collate the posts into a result (I'd be more than happy to do that if needed).

Inlay first. Take out the old ones by drilling. Use a bit same diameter as the current inlays, and then all you'll do is drill out the old ones. And yes, go a little deeper if you're scalloping the board. You'll need to think how deep you're going to scallop, and modify the depth/thickness of the inlay material accordingly.

Just running from Something Mickguard said in another thread. Why not run a GOTY contest - with the winners of the 12 month's categories pitched in against each other, users voting for their favourite?

I know there's a retail guitar available that has a headstock like that. I can't remember the maker, so I can't find it online, but it's strat style, completely standard apart from the fact that the headstock has this stylish hole cut through the centre of it. I'm guessing therefore that there won't be a structural problem with it...

What electronics are you fitting? I'd reckon you'd just want the smallest cavity the electronics require - why detract any more from the wood of the bass?

1. No, provided you put it back together correctly, it should all still be the same. 2. Best way to do it is to sand off all the finish, then either coat it with oil (tru or tung), or clear lacquer (available in spray cans from StewMac) As for removing the rust, I'm not too sure, vinegar or coke? Not sure if that'd go through the plating.

Those are some nice tops, but I must say that headstock shape is not exactly my preference. The tip of the headstock doesn't really fit with the rest of the flowing curves. Just something to consider.