i-j-c

Then just eye up and make your best judgement.. I only sugested using the neck plate as a guide so you have things even - but adjust according to taste and so long as there will be enough wood..ie they are not right at the edge...of the neck and the body heel..

I assume you mean the neck heel...meaning it is blank. I think a favoured trick is to use a neck plate..place it where the neck will go on the body...butt up against the body...trace the holes...then drill through.. ..if your neck is blank...then fit some screws through so they just reach through...place you neck in place so they get the imprint of the screws.. ..if you are not using a neck plate on the rear..make sure you recess the holes for the heads of the screws..or use a ferrule...

Matt, do you need a licence for something that pointy.. Seriously though...can't tel by the photo..but if it's the same kind of finish I'm thinking of (Hammerite)...then it's look is pretty evil...metal look for metal matt you could say... I'm not a real fan of pointy guitars, but I actually like that headstock..

When I first saw it it reminded me of two things: 1. A spider web 2. Batmans cape ...so, how about doing a caped crusader model Matt...all black (yeah your fav colour)...even out the design a bit..and still keep your trademark horns as the bat ears or something... ..then again, the few whisky's I've just had could be skewing my judgement...

DOn't know Byron...I made a post in another thread where I swore by Nitromors....worked a treat on a nitro finish on an acoustic....if you do too big an area that could be the problem.... Don't know why it's not working for you ..However...help is at hand (UK based) - this company offer superb paint stripper products which are used in the Aero industry and are available to the general public....apparently, the products were so good and demand so high..they made a website especially for it.. Here: http://www.paint-stripper.co.uk/

Here's the strat: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...topic=14894&hl= Here's the ES335: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=17945 What I'm planning on doing when I can fully utilise my time in the workshop, is to make a dozen or so guitars and bass (electric and acoustic)...then when charles has his viewings at his place which are pretty regular, he suggested I put the finished guitars on display at the same time...it's getting them in front of people and letting them see and feel them...then talk to others... You never know...as they say, a journey starts with the first step...good luck Byron..

Yes IT sucks... Offering your services to the local music scene would be a good start. Try and find out if there are any music collectives in your area and get involved... I'm trying to get back into this area after quite a few years...I went down to the local music collective at the arts centre near me...and the old guys (that were around when I used to play) are still there - it's still a hive of activity. I'm even more like you...in that at home I'm working in my shed (I have a fridge in there for beer also )... The workshop in Morpeth is pretty cool. The artist is Charles Evans a friend of the family (he is the resident artist for Tyne Tees TV (ITV)) - he lives in the middle of a field...and has lot's of studio space. He offered me the space (at's about 20ftx 20ft) to work in if I need it....he wuld like to see it used in the manner I want to use it. A lot of the benches, etc are already in place...just need some fixed tools - like bandsaw, planer/jointer etc. The other advantage is that he is very well linked with people and he did tell me a story of a local artist (musician) that he told I was about to embark on this work...he says, there is a market for quality handmade instruments - but as Mattia rightly says...look at custom builders - can you match or better them... Me, no way i'm nowhere near good enough...but I look at them as inspiration...if you have a dream, go for it... <<edit>> btw, I made my first guitar (after an abscence (I made some previously in the past)) - which is somewhere in the in prog board about Christmas time - a strat...I'm now working on an ES335...

Hey Byron, I'm in the UK too..Newcastle. There are other courses available in the UK and France. This company Craft Supplies run 5 day courses on both Electric and Acoustic guitar making...at the end of the course you come away with the instrument you build. The website is: www.craft-supplies.co.uk They have an on-line catalogue for musical instruments supplies: SUpplies Catalogue Tel: 01298 85636 or Fax: 01298 85612 or email: sales@craft-supplies.co.uk for info on the courses. BTW, no I don't work for them... I'm pretty much like you - I work in computing (IT Manager)..and it's a life long dream to want to make instruments full time...but I have to be practical about it... I am fortunate enough to have been offered a workshop at a friends art studio in Morpeth...to use rent free, which, when time permitting I can get setup to make instruments purely as a hobby/cottage industry... Good luck..

Well done jalien on completing your first guitar. It's one thing starting...another entirely is finishing. It looks well for your first build.. You mention you got fret buzz 19-24...in this photo, is it just the angle of the shot, but the neck looks bent...! It might be best adjusting the truss rod to get the neck absolutely level before going to work on the frets... But good work all the same...

Well said Mr Alex...and with regard PM's...exactly my sentiment (and I've said the same thing before on here) - it's about time dirty laundry was not aired in public on this forum...it's getting sickening, offputting and there is simply no need for rudeness..and if it's not stamped out, then it will keep coming back, have break then come back again.. As Brian always says - peace! Exactly.. Looking forward to the progress on this Mr Alex - good luck with the build - just start a new post anyway, I would, this one has lost it's plot...

Give the guy a chance...Mr Alex DID say he was AWAY THIS WEEK BUILDING it at his fathers place..and said he would try and remember to take progress pics.. Who knows, perhaps he may not have time or the facility to post whilst he is away...so give the guy a break. I'm looking forward as ever, to seeing guitars being built and concentrating on that...

@Demon... I've not long ago stripped back an acoustic that had a nasty finish on it...curly maple top and mahogany back/sides. I used NitroMors which you should be able to get in Scotland (I'm in Newcastle btw).. It's a gel like substance..brush on and after about 5 mins you'll see it start to blister - do not touch it whilst it is working wait another 5 minutes and ..start scraping. Work in manageable areas. You don't need much of the stuff and you use a paint brush to apply. 3 coats of the stuff stripped it back to wood. It will melt plastic, so if you have plastic binding...be careful. It is cleaned up on wood with White Spirit - don't use water. It will not damage wood. But prolonged contact with wood is not recommended - that is why I say don't use water as this will dilute the Mors and allow it to bleed into the wood...use white spirit instead. Also...safety wise: 1. Wear marigolds or something on your hands. Remove splashes from skin immediately (it'll burn otherwise). Wear goggles. 2. Use in well ventilated area and away from kids/animals 3. Dispose of residue and any cloths you use properly. It's very good stuff and goes a long way.

Hi Hitone...thanks for the comments.. It was actually your Fat Boy that inspired me to do this..that fat Boy was such a well executed piece of work. I've been through your website a few times..looking at the build process etc..excellent website..and superb looking guitars. OK the top and the back. They went on pretty easy....the sustain block sides have to be rounded over. As the sustain block was 1/4" higher on front and rear...I had to clamp the front and back first to get the centre line...then clamp the sides (tight). It was pretty amazing to see as immediately...it got it's shape...which was quite satisfying at that stage. I perhaps left a bit too much side wood at the horns...so the arch at the horns is not as pronounced as I would have liked as more of the top and back are glued...but I'll learn from this. The glue line is very good. The mahogany is nice. The whole body feels very rigid now. I just have to be so careful sanding the top round the 'f' holes. My only other issue was routing the binding channel on the sides as I've documented. But so far, it feels and looks OK...I'm suprised how quick it has come together...shame I have not had so much time in the last week or so to continue...

Right...got my neck wood yesterday..two lovely pieces, dressed of Sapele..with luck should turn out as two nice necks!

Oooops! mistakes can be made and I don't mind saying I've made one..but as they say, it's not what you've done..it's how you put it right! I spent most of last night binding the 'f' holes. Placed the strips of plastic in a tub of boiled water for a few secons..and begin to shape... All worked quite well - the black went on great..nice glue line..the white OK..but the small circles at the ends of the 'f' holes were tricky... In the end I decided they had to go...and I will think up something else..they came out pretty easy...with just a few spots where they had stuck fast...I guess I can just file these back...thankfully, the wood did not tear, the holes remained intact and was not damaged..just clean up the edges with a file and and get back to square 1... Here's the mess I made - I'll clear the remaining bits out.. The neck. I've been trying to get mahogany..but it's pretty hard to come by. I went to a local lumber guy round the corner from my office..he can offer me Sapele which is very much like African Mahogany..a bit harder and less prone to cross breaks...it's dried out quater sawn. I got me two 30"x4"x2" lengths for £19 - he's going to dress all the edges for me to pick up tomorrow so dimensions will be less...but a good price I think. Whilst I'm in his yard, I'll have a good sniff around and see what else he has..his prices are very good!

Jay5 - thanks. I don't have my own paint setup anymore..but I'm starting. At the the weekend I ordered this: http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=90451 to make a start with.. DKW. yep, this is very rewarding. This one is really just a learning experience for me, and whilst I have been unconventional in making the sides...it's worked OK...and I have learned a lot..and more importantly...learned what not to do. I'm hoping the pics show that the hours and hours I spent measuring up have paid of...and the glue joins are nice and tight. One thing I have learned is to make the neck first - I will have to make the tenon fit the cavity on this one...but all cuts are measured..so I'm hoping they stay true as much as they have done up till now....whether that is through sheer luck..I don't know! Marksound. yes - I hear ya. I went to the Volvo stealers today and looked at a sample of the paint...and it's pearly enough, so I will not be adding the powder. But I will sure heed your advice anyway and make some test sprays on some cut-offs - making sure I prep them as I would the guitar..sand, seal or grainfill, sand then paint. thanks all for your help... Cheers, Ian

Thanks Gun.. I'm starting the fretboard and neck the back end of this week...the neck will be mahogany and the fretboard will be rosewood. I'll be using jumbo wire and keeping to simple dots. First up though will be the fretboard so I can bind it.. ..whilst on that subject, I've now decided what finish this will have. I'm painting it Pearl White. The outer edge binding will be 1mm black on the inside and 1mm white on the outside...so when it's pained there will be a nice clear thin black line. Again, I gave some thought to this with binding the 'f' holes...they will be 1mm black on the body side and 1mm white outside...I'll give the same treatment to the headstock.The fretboard will be w/b/w binding. I'm also going to make my own pup covers following that thin black line theme..and the same for the pot knobs.. ..the hardware will be chrome. The pearl white paint I will be using is actually a Volvo car colour. However, I will be making it a little more pearl looking by adding some pearl powder I found at a craft shop to the paint - this powder, which comes in all sorts of hues can be added to anything. For the final coats of laquer I will be adding a white pearl poweder to the laquer...just to give it that bit extra pearl effect. I'll make the pickguard out of MOP (white MOP) - my logo will also be cut out of white MOP but I will add a thin 1mm line on the outside. But, for now - I need to finish the binding. I'm using some 6 foot lengths of 1mm plastic and cutting strips. as in the last pic above.

Thanks neocon I'm still not decided about the finish. I will start the neck sometime next week..so that should give me time to think about it when I get it all dry fitted together. I went and bought the wood for two more that I will be making in a similar vein to this....my confidence is boosted by the positive thoughts here...and the fact it's turned out better than I 'feared'..so anyone feeling not confident in doing this kind of guitar...take note...if I can do it, you can... I will make seperate posts for the other two I'm making..... Thanks to all for the encouragement.. Cheers, Ian

Good work...I love projects like that...waste not, want not as they say!

Thanks Donald and Jay5..much appreciated. I'm in two minds - first of all it was one of those.....moments...I should have put them on before the top....I'll remember that tip Donald... Secondly, like you say Jay..I do like them without...but the binding I am using is only 1mm thick... My dilema is that I just want to give them (the f holes) a bit of (extra) protection... I have some white electrical tape...I think I will put that in place - one or two layers, trim to size...just so I can get an idea of what it looks like..of course that will not be permanent..just to get the 'feel' for it. Thanks guys (everyone) for your input... Oh, one other thing, Donald - is that the first archtop you made? (either way...it's impressive first or not)...I only ask, as after doing this, I seem to have a taste for doing more, I'm quite enjoying doing this - I initially feared doing this...but not now...

Anyone got any tips on binding 'f' holes..? It's fiddly work - I'm making the binding myself out of strips...but finding my fingers a little too fat...I'm just waiting to get my digits glued in place too.. This is going to take a while I think.. Cheers, Ian

Thanks for the comments guys...that gives me a feeling I'm doing something right. Godin..I'm gonna use a TOM... Ok folks...did some more today. Now before I show pics..let me say this: the work I was going to do today..amde me real nervous...adn when I say nervous..I mean more nervous than when I get out of food shopping on a Saturday morning...opting to do the ironing instead...then realising 'she' will be back in 5 minutes..and I have spent the last 3 hours sitting on my lard ass watching TV....yup, more nervous than that. OK...what I did today was: 1. Rout the pups (they were already done...I just had to cut through the top) 2. Cut the binding channel front and rear - this is the really nervous bit.. 3. Rout the neck pocket. OK first up...using the remainder of the sides I cut..(I remembered to save them) I used these to clamp the body in place and cut through... Here: pic1 and here: pic2 Next...because this is a curved top...the baseplate of the router was no good for doing a binding channel. I then spent the next hour devising a method. I cut a piece of MDF and fitted this in to where the small round follower sits...and pushed the router bit through the centre. I then fastened this on top the follower and removed the base plate to give me enough clearance...the front was the worst due to the 'f' holes....any way...I then spent...and I'm not joking two hours building up the courage to rout the binding channel....check, re-check...measure...have a smoke...have a coffee..it was like I had and obssessive compulsive disorder.. Anyway...here is the mdf guide I made: pic3 and here it is attatched to the router... pic4 ...anyway...I went and did it...and it worked a treat...to say I was elated was an understatement. Doing this on a flat top is easy enough...but a curved top....nightmare...anyway it worked..here are some pics: pic5 - the back pic6 pic7 pic8 Phew! I'll just add here that I wanted a thin binding - it's 2mmx5mm Next I made a quick and easy jig to cut the neck pocket (I love home made quick and easy tools and jigs)...as you can see I used thin wood to follow the curve of the body...at the fron it was straight and allowed my to cut the neck pocket at an angle...meaning I can have a straight tenon on the neck...much easier imho. So here are some pics of the jig.. pic9 pic10 pic11 Phew again! So the neck pocket was then routed out..lastly a pic for the post..next up tomoorw I'll bind this and bind the 'f' holes.. Finishing pic... Pleased that is over...time to relax and have a beer..

Didn't cut the binding channel...just finished sanding the sides and top.. here's a progress pic... hopefully tomorrow I'll get teh binding channel, pickups, neck joint and TOM bridge positions done... I'm now thinking of lightening up this whole thing and making it a transparent milky white...with and ebony binding now...and having a maple neck instead of mahogany.. Anyway, the top and sides are nice and smooth now..quite pleased with this so far...

Making necks always seems to scare the beejeezus out of people...and with good reason... Good work gun...I'll be starting my mahogany neck in the next week...so this is giving me more confidence... Cheers, Ian

TOnight after some more sanding I'll be cutting the binding channel...I am undecided about using the router on top and will test using the router underneath and making the boddy level and do a bit at a time. Failing that...because of the curve on front and rear...I may cut the channel out by hand... The pickup cavities are already cut under the top, but I will wait until I'm finished sanding to cut the top out out of the cavities. My only concern now is sanding the top - especially round the 'f' holes (toward the centre of the guitar as they are raised on one edge) and the edges...as it can be all too easy to sand too much and make those areas thin.. So, hand sanding it is then...I'm currently on 600 grit...