borge

You don't need a manual switch, a switching jack can do it.

But when they start to drain doesn't the signal weaken? No. Internal preamps circuits are designed to be run on batteries, there are thousands of well designed active preamps out there running just fine for years on batteries...you are trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist. Like akula and I said, a trs jack will do it, not sure why you'd need 4 conductors... Hell, you could even do it with a mono jack and DC blocking caps, maybe adjust the preamp to make up for the low end cut.

You want a NO (normally open) switch put to earth rather than NC (normally closed) as opening the circuit will by noisy like an unplugged lead.

So stock LP setup with individual coil splits...I'd say theres a few thousand copies of LP wiring diagrams around alls you need to do is add the coil splits like so: http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...1hum_1vol_split As for a preamp: http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=431 you could replace the bass and treble pots with fixed resistors if you'd rather the passive tones.

You don't need another jack, you could send 9vdc up a trs cable. But... theres no good reason to do phantom power as modern, low noise preamp designs have very low current needs and the typical battery life of 500-1500 hours is usually less trouble than the work involved and the result is a guitar that's useless without it's supply, rechargeable batteries are a better idea...

Yep, I think it's this: Either add in the pots or put a 250k-500k resistor across the output and see how that sounds.

So it's humming like a strat? can you measure the tip-sleeve resistance? Having no pots across the circuit will make quite a difference to the sound, having infinite resistance to earth (as in your wiring) will be louder and a fair amount brighter, output and top end decreases as resistance to earth (vol or tone pots added to cct) decreases.

A few things to consider: will running the extractor through a single household vacuum sized hose put too much strain on the motor? will you use a diverter valve to select workshop or household? if not, some suction may be lost through leakage or noise may become an issue. How do you plan on getting around this^ you could switch on the unit manually but I'd guess you would need to switch it off whenever you unplug the hose as I assume the extractor wont like running with no inlet port open... You could make a low voltage relay setup to switch the unit on and off with a switch at each outlet. or if you get hold of the outlets with prongs that'd be easier. either way, the relay setup would be quite cheap, I'd suggest 2 relays: all outlet switches/prongs in parallel feeding one low voltage relay which switches mains voltage to a high current relay(contactor, the extractor you linked is 16A) which switches voltage to the load. A 3way switch to select off/on/relay will also be needed. That house looks great.

You mean you redid the tests? what were the results? (answers next to corresponding numbers 1-10 would be good) If you didn't redo the tests, "0 for everything" proves only that you have a signal-earth short and says nothing of the pickups status. Whats "the start lug"? Check this thread to sort that out: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=43902

Ok, thats not good.. I'll explain what they should be, that may help: 1 lead sleeve to machineheads-close to zero, proves the strings are earthed. 2 lead tip to machineheads-close to the pup resistance (5k-20k) (or the pup pair in parallel if both pups are selected)-proves pup/s in circuit and strings are earthed 3 lead sleeve to pup cover or if uncovered, the baseplate.-close to zero, proves pup cover is earthed. 4 lead tip to pup covers or if uncovered, the baseplate. close to the pup resistance (or the pup pair in parallel if both pups are selected)-proves pup/s in circuit and cover/s are earthed 5 lead tip to sleeve, volumes wide open-should give resistance close to your pup readings when individual pups are selected (via pup switch), resistance should decrease to close to zero as you turn the corresponding volume down. - proves volume pots are doing what they should. so from here, eliminate faulty lead: 6 Unplug lead, test tip to sleeve-should be in the MegaOhm range-proves lead isnt shorted, 7 test tip to tip-should be close to zero, proves signal conductor is good 8 test sleeve to sleeve-should be close to zero, proves earth/screen conductor is good. If the lead is good, you either did all the tests with the volume/s on 0 or theres a short to earth somewhere, but that still wouldn't explain the buzzing hmmm 9 Ignoring the loud hum, is the guitars output volume at a normal level? 10 do you have an auto ranging MM or manual? depending on your MM you could get zero for all tests if you had it set to the wrong range...

plug a lead in and test & record resistances (taking note of ohms range, some readings will be 1-2 Ohms, some will be 5-15kiloOhms ) of: 1 lead sleeve to machineheads 2 lead tip to machineheads 3 lead sleeve to pup cover or if uncovered, the baseplate. 4 lead tip to pup cover or if uncovered, the baseplate. 5 lead tip to sleeve, volumes wide open-should give resistance close to your pup readings when individual pups are selected (via pup switch), resistance should decrease to close to zero as you turn the corresponding volume down. Sounds to me like you have signal-earth reversed, so when you touch what should be earthed you are touching signal which you are then earthing via your bodys earth connection. I'm just speculating, I've never a signal-earth reversal problem, whether my theory holds water depends on how well your body is earthed.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...tic=2h_1v_1t_3w I think tonerider use the same colour code as SD but google to confirm. theres a killpot install PDF on the shadow website. its a normally open SPST momentary switch, signal goes on one lug, earth on the other.

both of those switches are capable of alot of different switching options, which in particular are you talking about?

That's series split parallel, you want series/off/parallel don't you? It isn't for when both pups are split, it switches inter pup series/parallel regardless of the intra pup series/split/parallel switches position/s. Well get drawing and find out

Or buy a meter, learn how to use and find the problem within a few minutes... Sorry but electrical fault finding is something i do everyday and I consider that^ bad advice. I guess if you only ever plan on fixing one guitar your advice may apply, but a cheap meter cost less than a soldering iron and saves a lot of time in the long run...the first thing I do on a guitar with faulty electrics is plug a lead in and test it with a DMM, 99% of the time I'll know the fault before I even open the guitar up. /electricians rant. EDIT Just reread the thread and saw this from you: Excellent advice

It's not a very intuitive layout, it so i highly doubt it's been done before... Doing up a truth a truth table (a table like in the bottom left of the below pic) of how you want it to work will make things clearer.

you want inter pup or intra pup series/parallel? Anything is possible with enough poles but i'm not sure it can be done with standard/easily available toggle switches, and I'm not going to find out for you Draw up as much as you can, post it up and we'll go from there. These resources may help: http://guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi...amp;thread=3769 http://guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi...amp;thread=3760

He has 3 lugs so theres no switch, just a regular TRS (stereo) jack I've seen some that have lugs of all the same length, either way I always plug a lead in and test with a DMM.

Thats more like it, someone with a lot of versatility, the rest of this thread reads like a "Who's your favorite guitarist" thread. Tommy Tedesco would be the obvious choice to me...Theres a reason he's the most recorded guitarist in history...

Headphone power ratings are in the range of milliWatts, they would blow very very early on the volume dial, before '1' i'd guess. Even if they didn't blow, The VJ expects a 4-16 ohm load, The impedance of headphones is often on the XXXohms range, not good for the VJ's OT...

Oh ok, though, my point still stands as its under warranty. It's a very simple amp and would be easy to fault find if you're that way inclined. Schem: http://www.muzique.com/news/images/Epi1.gif

Try changing the tubes if you have some on hand, otherwise take it back, you shouldn't have to fix an amp less than a year old and trying to will void your warranty.....

RCA's are for signals: low voltage, low current, under no circumstances should 17 watts be going through RCA's, a CD head unit sends high power to the speakers, not the RCA's what 'tonal possibilities' are you looking for? like tim said, boosting the input isn't a good idea, so that leaves EQ and distortion....which your RP should cover... Your RP355, like most multi effect units, is designed to be plugged straight into a mixing desk (hence the switch i mentioned...) self powered speaker ect, hell, I've plugged mine into home hi fi & car stereos, no additional preamp required of course.. thats why they have guitar speaker cabinet simulations: to give guitar speaker frequency response when plugged into full range speakers.... you have a stereo amp and stereo multieffects, it seems a waste to go mono... Why not unbridge your amp and wire your cab for stereo. true stereo effects are a sound to behold.

The RP355 is a preamp. try the mixer/amp switch on mixer.

try the forum search function, this has been brought up a few times.