borge

put a TRS lead in the vox and make contacts to determine how it works. use a multimeter to see what the marshall FS is doing, if they're both momentary or latching you should be able to adjust the marshall to suit if it won't work off the bat. if not, swap out the switches for the correct type (mom. or latching). stomp switches (except 3PDT) are pretty cheep....

If they both function the same way, yes. Are they both TRS? which contacts control which functions? are they both latching? or momentary? ect

Try the freestompboxes.org forum, but I don't think you'll find anything, trying to reverse engineer SMD digital processors is beyond the realms of DIYers, and why would anyone do it anyway? very few would have the SMD technology to build one and it would be 10x cheaper to buy one anyway! If you explain exactly what you want to do you have more chance of getting help.

you need to find out how your switch works, heres a datasheet: http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/MtogglesBushing.pdf as you see, that manufacturer only makes on-off-on 4PDT's, either find the datasheet for your parcticular switch or spend 2 mins with a multimeter checking continuity.

AFAIK its standard les paul style: 2vol, 2tone, 3way toggle, but with 'Memphis tone circuits' (aka 'treble bleed') http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...tic=2h_2v_2t_3w that will work fine, just add treble bleeds and substitute 300k pots in.

Also, a tremolo set to a high speed and intensity can get 'helicopterish'

yes green (pup coil start) and bare (pickup base and cover(if it has one) earth) are your braid, pup coil start and earth are connected inside your pup. Yes i did mean ignore red and white, oops! they are the end of one coil and start of the other, this connection is done inside 2 conductor pups.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...tic=2h_1v_1t_3w It explains the 2-4 conductor issue at the bottom, but its pretty clear from the diagram anyway (ignore red&black) You may want to use 250k pots depending on how bright your p90s are, IM0 hot p90s work well with 500k, vintage spec with 250k.

well I'm sure a vintage supro would cost many many times as much as your average marshall......simply because there are people like you (pointlessly IMO) chasing 'his magical tone'. "Page's hands and genius are 90% of that tonal equation" page will sound like page on ALL amps because he's page.....

Your vox has no poweramp valve.....its a SS practice amp....... I'd also hazard a guess it has no arbitrary preamp valve they sometimes put in SS amps, that'll be reserved for the bigger/higher end valvetronix. There is no '70's sound' poweramp valve, many many amps were made in the 70's with many different valves..... I guess the traditional 'el34 sounds' is the plexi/jcm tones we've all heard on 9/10 rock records ever made, The trad. el84 being Vox tones often associated with the Beatles/Byrds 'jangle' the Edge or Brian May, of course Jimmy used both.... What's so special about that clip anyway? its standard LP>Marshall crunch.....any modelling amp will do that..... I think you either need to go to a music shop and try some other amps or have an experienced guitarist show you what your amp can do.

from the link you gave: Obviously the holes need to be perpendicular to the body or the ferrules wont line up, a drill press is the job for this. Although, the first time I did ferrules i didn't have access to a press so i drilled plenty of holes in a piece of wood, found the 'squarest' one and used that hole as a guide for the string through holes. It worked fine but a press is much easier, faster and foolproof.

NO! the bridge to 21st fret distance is governed by the scale length, so they are different for each scale length and are not interchangeable.

IME teles are most often associated with the "twang", that said Setzer plays a big hollow bodys for the most part. like dudz said (quite heavy) compression is a big part too, either from a pedal or a cranked tube amp. fenders are the amps of choice, twins, bassmans, and of course the vital ingredient is: slapback delay! (setzer uses a vintage echoplex, but all delay pedals should do slapback) my strats bridge pup into my cranked bassman (a jansen, nz made fender clone) is instant rockabilly when i ditch the pick, dig in hard near the bridge and put some slapback on.

also, different value resisters can be used to adjust the brightness, just make sure you're still within the limits of the LED.

Rob Zombies guitarist has a guitar covered with pig skin, he's adding tattoos to it over time. a non metallic cover wont affect the magnetic field but it will affect the min. string-pickup distance before the strings start hitting the cover.

so this is how the 3 pup LP switch works: So i think wiring one of those^ as below will give me mid off/ mid added/mid only any alternative suggestions for the slide switches? would series/parallel somewhere be much use?

So I've attempted to draw it up, the two DPDT switches are on/on slide switches for neck on/off and mid phase reversal, the others are std LP type toggles. <snip>pic <snip> (revised pic below) by my calculations theres no way to wire the other toggle to add be mid off/mid added/mid only maybe "this switch" as used in 3 pup LPs will work. hmmm any thoughts folks?

my current build is a jazzmaster copy, I planned on having 2xp90s, master vol, master tone, 3way toggle, but I found a good deal on trademe (NZ's ebay) and ended up with 3xp90s. Instead of going with a strat type 5way blade i thought I'd try the TVL yamaha system, which is: 3xp90 3xvol master tone 1st toggle: bridge/bridge+neck/neck 2nd toggle:middle off/add middle out of phase/middle pup only(turns other pups off) I want the same except a master vol instead of 3x individual vols, I haven't seen any schematic like this around, I was going to (attempt to) draw it out tonight but thought i'd ask a few questions on my lunch break, so: would standard gibson 3 way toggles work? my pups are a matched pair of hot SD p90s around 12k for the neck and 15k for the bridge (both ceramic) and a KA vintage p90 around 8k (alnico), Is the output mismatch likely to be tamed by pup height adjustment? i like all pups around the same volume. I think i may try and trade the SD's for something lower output/brighter and alnico, i didn't realise they were that hot and ceramic when i bought them I assume i want the middle pup to be RWRP like a strat and i assume none of mine are I was going to add two DPDT slide switches i have lying around to keep with the jazzmaster look, maybe series/parallel and an off switch for the neck pup so i can use the 1st toggle for stuttering/killswitch, or any other suggestions? some more info about the build: maple neck, rosewood FB, CBS headstock, recessed TOM, black beauty colour scheme: all gold hardware (incl. pup covers), Black pickguard, black finish. any help/suggestions much appreciated

"fine" can be a very subjective word.... take string height measurement at the nut and the 12th fret so we have something to go off.... if you have very high action which may be "fine" to you it will throw your intonation out. Like Ihocky said, to have great intonation you need a strobe tuner (or a great ear). you say your tuner's a nice one but it wont pick up F through G# on the low E! and this too: "but i just sounds like its a whole lot worse than what the tuner shows." are you plugging into the tuner or relying on the built in mic?

depends on your definition of profound..........and your opinion of the pedal............ and the way the amp takes that particular pedal.......... and the way the pedals dialed in.......and what brand battery you have in the pedal forget about a pedal for now, your vox has a massive array of amp models and effects, come to grips with all that before adding any extra complications

the vox will have enough gain for death metal..... its a modeling amp. i read somewhere Angus Young has an ac30 miked in an iso booth off stage with 50 dummy marshalls onstage... surely at least one of the 6 AC amp models in the valvetronix will get close enough??

i haven't used that particular amp but IME its the "contour" of the midrange ie max =mid scooped, min= mid humped, in your case probably used to adjust the overall mid shape then the parametric EQ provides more focused adjustment.

I prefer http://www.freestompboxes.org/ over diystompboxes.com, theres no censorship to keep certain boutique pedal builders "designs" a "secret" like diySB, so you can ask about any design freely without risking unwarned account destruction! like PSW said, it beyond the realms of most....

That's probably to connect the cavity's shield (paint or aluminum foil/tape) to ground. or a star ground, not something you'd usually find a production guitar, especially a cheap one

its important, you ground the strings (via the bridge) to avoid excess noise..... you dont need to solder to the post, just run a bare wire into the post hole, the post will hold it. "a large screw embedded in the body"? what?