mledbetter

right.. i was just saying as an alternative to hiding them under the surface.. playability might be a factor with no ruum under the strings.. this, at a quick glance looks like total spalt surface but still gives you freedom of height adjustable pups. Gorgeous wood too. A buddy of mine said they taught them at a wood turning class how to spalt their own wood.. there are methods apparently to trick wood into developing the figure over several months with mold spores instead of just waiting to find it in nature..

Check this treatment.. spalt with spalted pup covers.

parting out vintage gear is a common thing.. a buddy of mine bought a 68 body jazz bass with original electronics but a 70s bridge and an allparts neck. Paid 400 for it. He sold the body for 680, the tuners for 120, the pups for 80 each, the electronics for 30 or 40 and the bridge for 50. Did pretty well. AND the dude that he bought it from bought it as a whole vintage guitar with a warped neck.. he sold the banana neck for 700 bucks and sold the rest of the parts with a new neck for 400. When you have a old guitar that isn't all original, it's worth more as parts than it is whole. that's just the current market for vintage crap. I don't see the desire but folks do apparently. The whole isn't always greater than the sum of the parts.. lol..

i doubt he rips up very many cariax unless it for the electronics. The general concensus is that the guts of it are awesome but the guitar is mediocre.. I wish they would just sell the guts of it as an aftermarket addon.

whew!

wow! that is close isn't it.. i might have to tweak mine some.

Rarely am I accused of being efficient!! ) The joint seems good. I tried to pull, bend, pry the joint as hard as I could and couldn't get a creak out of it.. Just gotta glue on the ears and i'll be back in business

No clue about behringer cabs.. The price is right.. they would probably do for the time being.. You could always switch out speakers as time went on. The speaker and electronics gurus can answer better how to get the most volume out of the thing.. with your power output, i'm sure the number and combination of speakers you choose will be important.

that guitar has some serious attitude.. very cool.. it does look awfully big but as long as it's comfortable for you.. Nice looking work..

Yeah I was quite happy to find that.. awesome movie..

Get it.. if you don't like it, you can "run it through" with your impaler I've heard good things about the VAmps.. One thing you have to remember, at least in my experience, is that the sounds on the modeling units are usually best for the high gain patches.. where I think they are lacking is in that very specific area of tube overdrive, where that perfect grit and grime can only come from a tube amp.. but when you're talking about a mesa triple-rect patch or some insane-gain thing, you don't have that issue. I'd say you could make that head as brutal as you want to. Given the style you play I can't imagine you would be disappointed. The ONLY thing i would worry about with this amp is the power.. 2x60 isn't that much in the solid state world.. It should crank plenty loud but you'll want to run it through a soundsystem if you play out where I would think. I saw a VAmp rack on ebay the other day go for 120-130 bucks.. the other option is to get the rack module, get a 300-watt or so power amp and a couple of mid sized loud speakers and you're set.

Excellent solution. That will be awesome.

i just got the summer flyer.. awesome prices and great stuff.. It can't hurt that the president is a luthier and he likes to build solutions for other luthiers.. Their guitar catalog is pretty cool too.. mostly acoustic oriented but it has a lot of stuff in it. I was thrilled with stewmac though the other day.. I ordered monday of this week at about 3 pm.. got ship confirmation by 5 and it was at my door by wednesday morning.. and that was regular ground.

Seems we spotted the same one. I'm wanting dark brown edge, possibly even black, but very thin, more to enhance the shape of the carve rather than anything else. The middle will probably stay natural. The color is so great on it's own with a clearcoat. I'm doing a black epoxy grain fill so that will bring out the grain patterns even more. The other night was a waste.. i burned up all my time figuring out how to tackle a scarf joint on a neck that was wider than my table saw blade would cut.. I decided (time will tell if it was a good decision or not!!) to rip the piece to 3" wide, scarf joint that, then take my offcut and make ears for the peghead. Should work fine. Body carve is finished - i'll get pics up over the weekend. I got some of those little rubber sanding blocks/wedges/cylinders etc.. that you use for sanding odd shapes and those are really making all my edges uniform. Next step is to shoot some test spots with the behlan jet spray toners on my offcuts to see what works for the burst. I'll try to get more pics of things.. i really wanted to photograph every step of the way of the carve and such but 1) i'm learning to carve as I go and 2) my wife and I just bought a canon digital rebel and while an awesome camera, the idea of me taking it to the shop doesn't go over so well i'll have to get a cheap shop cam that can take getting some dust on it.

I thought G was saying that he couldn't fit it in the little blurb line under his name.. not the page title..

Look up GuitarJones online.. you can get everything you need from them.. magnets, bobbins, etc.. they have a pretty good deal on a bobbin with magnets already formed out of forbon fiberboard, eyelets installed.. ready to wind. not a bad deal at all.

Jus tgot my grizzly summer sale flyer today.. Their 17" saw is 795 right now.. and their 19 is 1045. Both look like great saws. Folks I know that own grizzly's upper end stuff say they are awesome. Their cheaper stuff is a different story But once you go 14" and above you're getting their higher end bandsaws. 795 is a great deal considering it's 2 hp and has over 16" in cutting height.. edit: I forgot they had two 14s.. Yeah the Ultimate 14 is supposed to be top notch.. the other 14 i've heard mixed feelings about.

all access neck joint

Do you use the slotting template and pin? or just match up lines? I was thinking matching up lines would probably be just as easy, but since I already have the slotting plate, i could go either way.

It's never hurt mine. I used that method at church a lot, so it would never be in there more than an hour.. but that way I could crank my amp all the way to distortion zone and not hurt anyone.. Speakers survive in sealed cabs so i don't know why this would be any different. You'll want to open it up every now and then to let the heat out tho

Get the Rikon.. it was on sale at woodcraft for 800 bucks in feb.. i think it's back up to a grand though, but it's still a steal considering what all it is capable of.

build a plywood box, line it with acoustical foam and make a way to put a couple of chords into it. I used an old ozite covered rack box with a front and back panel.. but plywood and acoustical foam would be much better

Aah.. i understand. That could work too.. then not have to worry with the floyd and the piezos in it..

wouldn't it suck if you dropped the thing??

Neat idea on teh scarf joint. When it's done can you go back to the woodrat to take the waste corner off the peghead panel and line up with the neck bed? or will you just saw and plane it.. I was agonizing over a scarf joint last night as my table saw blade isn't high enough to make the cut clean.. something like this would have been better. of course I don't ahve a woodrat so that doesn't help me much I suppose But it wouldn't be hard to build a jig where you cut your neck blank, line the two pieces up at an angle, clamp them together and slide a router across the top to cut them both to teh same angle..