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Everything posted by mledbetter

  1. it's the psychology of any large group. You have a few veterans that stick together, you have a medium sized group of folks that have been around a while and are still sympathetic to the newbies but have rapport with the veterans, and then you have the newbies that want to dream, challenge, innovate, etc. and that's ok by me. Ask any college professor you'll hear the same story. Good professors are the ones that realize that these annoying freshmen are just like they were once, and without patient mentors, they can never reach the point where they have enough experience to gain true wis
  2. most metal covered pups have a little tab or two that is bent over underneath. You want to undo that tab and sometimes the cover will be soldered to the baseplate so you would have to melt that. On the soldering, it doesn't take long at all. I pinch the lead of the cap between the tip of the iron and the top of the pot, touch the solder wire to it and then hold the cop as i lift the iron and in about a second it'll be dry and ready. Whole process shouldn't take more then 5-10 seconds once you get it down. Adhesion might be the word you were looking for Curtis Penetration conjures so
  3. To get natural finish checking, you might have to do it by hand and using a good photo or example of a real finish with checking, take an xacto and actually draw your checks into the finish. Then you can do the dirt & grime method of bringing the scratches out. I've seen poly crack only once and that's when my buddy dropped his brand new strat on my concrete floor. Poly doesn't wnat to check. It'll hold fast till it shatters.
  4. David, you're always a class act around here and very generous with your encouragement and advise. Thank you very much for your openness. I'm a programmer too.. maybe there is light at the end of the tunnel lol.
  5. Personally, I think lollar makes most of his money selling custom pickups, followed by custom guitars and having a book out there to help folks compete against him probably seemed like less and less of a smart idea. I'd say he wants it out of print because every tom, dick and harry buys it and starts their own custom pickup business. I have never seen the book but i feel I could make a pickup today given the resources with all I have read online. From what I understand his book was primarily about how to build the winder, and some theory behind pup design. A pup is just a coil of wire
  6. man, a 220 watt tube amp.. you could level buildings with that thing. I don't know that much about dumbles but there are dozens of boutique amps out there i'd love to have that are much less expensive.
  7. That is some very cool product design. You said some changes had been made, and maybe the trademarked logo is one of those changes, but for the market the "big block" brand is perfect. Along with the look that you can stomp the hell out of it and it's going to last.
  8. some folks use shoe polish but it stinks and eventurlaly comes off. SOme even use it to darken their necks but its a good way to get brown, greasy palms yeah the canned air is what I was talking about. Instant freeze.
  9. you will definitely know it when you see a 3 tone. The fender 3 tone is a definite yellow middle with a red ring and a black edge. This is a nice fade from the center color to the outer color which means it's a 2 color fade.
  10. i say there's nothing wrong with the screwdriver chip as long as there is a reason for it. What made that ding, and will a screwdriver really look like that? Dings often came from instrument cable ends (my taylor acoustic has a nice beauty spot on the front where someone slung a mic cable a little too close to her) Something as sharp as a screwdriver is going to leave a distinctive mark and that can look repetative. The other nice thing about the story idea is it will keep you authentic. Light a cig and let it burn down in the headstock. The best way to approximate these wear and
  11. There are two ways i can think of. 1st (and this is what I do as I do not have a jointer) use a router table with a split fence. Get the fences square and perfectly even with the bit, so if you ran the board across there would be no cutting. Then take the fence on your feed side and push it back just a hair. You feed from that side, it cuts the wood and on the out side it's flush with the fence so it won't cut any deeper than that. DO 2-3 passes and you'll be pretty spot on if you set it up right. The other way would be to clamp the board down to a table top with the edge lapping
  12. Nitro checks because it is fragile. Shellac also checks. Poly might check if you drop it but i don't know that temp extremes will check it. Modern finishes are made to withstand much more temp and condition extremes than the old style finishes. On the plastic, don't bother with coffee soaking and crap like that. The best relicers will age plastic with lacquer. Some people use a can or neck amber lacquer from reranch and you control the darkness of the effect by the thickness of the coat. Light dustings and careful placement of the color will be important. Think about where the pick s
  13. make a bunch of fretboards out of it
  14. Drak, I think you were just lumped in with Perry's comments. And in defense of those comments, 100 people will come through here and say things like "I have found my calling and want to build guitars for a living.. now how do I radius the fretboard??" After a while you just assume that anyone who verbalizes their guitar building dream is just that, a dreamer. Truth is, probably 1 out of every 100 might even make it and make a living. I'd love to make a living doing guitars but you can't get the cart before the horse and I don't say anything about it because that's my business and t
  15. Hey, thanks for the kind words. The ziricote is pretty easy so far. if i remember correctly, it's in the rosewood family so it works about like that. I'm not going to route it, i'll plane or sand the edges flush. With all the wild grain I would say it's prone to cracking. Originally the FB was Katalox which is hard as a freakin rock. Very ebony-like. But it was too thick and I had messed something else up so I cut it off and went back to the ziricote. I'm hoping to finish the neck up this week and get the binding done so i'll shoot up some new pics as soon as I get some more shop tim
  16. apparently it's all the rage for huffing these days which is just sad.. dumbasses getting frostbite on their tongues and stuff. Apparently several kids have died recently. I swear some people will try anything once no matter how stupid it is.
  17. with nitro i've known people that used compressed air (which is probably what the original "freon" post was referring to). It's not freon but it's got some sort of propellant in it that if you turn the can upside down it will spray out a white frost and freeze whatever you spray it on. I'm talking about the canned air you get for spraying out your keyboard and stuff. any office supply store has it. research aging hardware too. people throwing all their hardware in a box of rusty nails for a couple of weeks and stuff, that's just not natural. Rust does not equal age. google Nash Guita
  18. well not only is the FB not trimmed, it's not attached either, it's just laying on there so that's why it looks strange too. This guitar has a sister, a mahogany and sycamore carved top that is not as far along. I like both. I love a carved top but this kinda gets that axis look too. The tele just needs the control cavity routed and she's ready to finish. Just haven't had time. I hated the neck so i'm doing something else with it. I don't like the scarf joint at all with the two very contrasty grains meeting up and not matching. I'll probably kick out another maple neck for that
  19. yeah it's a very interesting piece of maple. Some of Rich's (fryovanni) stock. It's not a killer flame, but is nice looking and the edge grain is also very nice. Personally, I love amber guitars but the order is for a blue/black burst so that's what'll i'll give him I suppose. Maybe i'll try to twist his arm a bit
  20. I don't have a ton of progress pics, but here are a few. 1. Peghead closeup 2. Body rough cut 3. Body Closeup I've got about 5 guitars in the works and this will most likely be the first one that I finish as I have been tweaking all of my templates and jigs. I'd say I have about 10 hrs in this build alltogether so far, although spread out over several weeks. That's it, hope you like it, and if you don't i'm sure i'll hear about it!!
  21. Now, here is the guitar fairly complete and ready to start fitting. The body is alder with a flamed maple 1/4" top, .9 binding channel routed, gold hardware with traditional tele bridge/pu and a GFS gold retrotron humbucker in the neck position. The neck is flamed maple with a ziricote fingerboard that i have radiused and fretted but not trimmed flush to the neck yet. Truss rod channel is cut and ready to glue the board to the neck and then fret. Back is not contoured yet of course. Controls on this puppy will be a LP style toggle switch and 1 vol and 1 tone. Simple and to th
  22. I had thrown up a post a month or so ago in the general forum about the design of this but since it's almost complete I wanted to put the progress stuff in it's own thread. Here is the original design, with a few modifications (photoshop mockup) The design of the guitar is somewhere in between a les paul and a tele, and this is to the specifications of a friend of mine for whom this is being built for. Some love it, some hate it, but it's a custom order so I take no blame or credit for the fusion of the two (although I personally like it a lot)
  23. lol. that's great. i think it all comes down to like what Wes said.. This guy thinks he's deep and he's not. not in any way, shape or fashion. When you try to be deep and have no depth from which to pull from, you end up with pure grade A cheese..
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