Mr Alex

That's cool man, that stuff happens. As far as it being stealth, I "lost" it for a few hours in a dark corner of my workshop. I might have to paint a reflective stripe down it incase it falls off the bench again.

My block came the other day, you did an awesome job, and I'll definately be getting more from you in the future, way better than any others I've seen.

I'd start with log for the gain and volume, and linear for everything else. At worst, the adjustment wont appear linear.

Hehe, sorry about that, I misread it to be it had the polarity of the dc jack reversed. I should've thought about the positive ground thing. This is why its much easier to just rectify AC inside the pedal. Sorry dude.

Just reverse the wires on one of your daisy chains plugs. I do that all the time.

Merbau should glue fine with PVA, its the only wood I use for fretboards now, and I'm gonna find other ways to incorporate it into my guitars. Now if your pieces are particularly oily, take a knife with a curved blade(a chisel works, but I dont like chisels anymore), sharp enough to shave with, and work your way down the timber you are gluing, peeling up ultra thin lines in the timber, the glue will seep in under these, and when you clamp the joint they compress back down and the joint will hold very well. I'll head out now, and get a pic. In my experience if you don't do this, the glue will never penetrate the surface of the timber. Sorry about the rubbish pic, camera batteries died, and I can't find anymore. The lines are quite deep and allow the glue to seep down into the grain.

I remember there was a topic a while ago about making your own shielding paint, this just reminded me about it. If you find a factory making carbon brushes(for electric motors) they have so much carbon filings that they give it away free in big bags. Just mix it 1/2 and 1/2 into a thick paste. Over a 1m length you should be able to measure about 100 ohms.

I believe the warmoth ones are thicker on the bass side. I've done a couple of necks that are thicker on the treble side, I really likde them, its all a matter of personal preference. And if you dont like it, its no big deal to remove the thicker side.

As someone who had 240volts flowing through them recently, I feel I'm the right guy to talk to about electrocution. I was setting up a correctly insulated and grounded circuit. Had one slip of a finger and shorted out the mains. My shoulders locked and I couldn't let go. Its very serious stuff. And horrendously painful too. I'm still alive, only because I have rcd wall sockets, and they don't exactly kick in as quickly as I'd like. If you are gonna build a tube amp, have a registered electrician inspect it before you even think about putting it near the wall socket. I dunno about your country, but here it's illegal to hook something into the mains that hasn't been inspected. If you wanna build an amp, yeah sure, that sorta stuff is great fun, but very dangerous too.

Perhaps someone can figure out how to do this in reverse. I tried, but don't have the guts to try again, I'm almost as afraid of bandsaw blades as tablesaws now. That whirling sound tablesaws make sends shivers down my spine.

If you can figure it out, I believe you can uncoil them against a wall, but I just leave that job to others after one "exploded" on me as I uncoiled it in the wrong direction, and tore through the heavy gloves I was wearing, and my shirt.

I could hook you up with some mistinted 2 pack isocyanate free industrial poly. But the chances of getting a colour you want is very slim, and the dangerous goods courier would cost an arm and a leg. But seriously, go to a dulux trade store, and see if they have any mistinted acrathane. The only colours people seem to get it in is grey and umm, black-grey. So the chances of getting some red is pretty slim, but could be worth the inquiry. I think the CFP is probably one of the cheapest, fastest and easiest ways to go, bar, spraying 2 dollar aerosols with no durability.

I know nothing about metalcast, but my brother knows his paints better than anyone, and alot of his knowledge has rubbed off on to me in recent months. In my experience, shellac sticks to nearly everything, and nearly everything sticks to shellac.(what marvelous little bugs!) Most products I've used call for an industrial epoxy basecoat, if you use it, you'll have no trouble, it's rather expensive though, and I doubt necessary with metalcast. The fact metalcast comes in aerosols tells me it's nothing too fancy. This is New Zealand after all Basically, use what the can says to use, because in the long run, the finish won't always last too long otherwise. Now, if it were me finishing this guitar, and I wanted a translucent red, I'd tint shellac with universal tinter(ask your local paint store for some) when you have a satisfactory colour, I'd use cabbot's CFP, it brushes well, is rock hard(designed for floors) and takes 3 days to harden. I think you can get a 1litre can for about $25NZ at most hardware stores, a 4 litre has done my work benches(which are huge btw), a guitar, and several other things, and I've probably still got 3.5 litres left. Don't bother with the optional hardening additive if you get some, the stuff straight from the can is plenty hard enough for a guitar. The last guitar I built had about 5-6 coats of CFP over tinted shellac, and that came out awesome, not factory standards, but I didn't buff it. just levelled between coats. Edit: Had a quick read up on that metalcast stuff, without the right primer, you'd be wasting your time, it would probably bubble after a few weeks.

I used to have an Ibanez weeping demon. VERY nice wah. No pot, adjustable in everyway you could think of, even has a switch for when you use a bass. And solid as a rock, also has two different switching options depending on how you play. That said, I sold mine last year, I stopped using it, cos it drove me insane always adjusting it. These days I'm building my own(from sapele mahogany ) I guess that way, it will take longer to adjust it if I leave out all the other controls the weeping demon had. But yeah, the weeping demon is awesome, just drives you insane, because you know you can make it sound better, but then you lose the tone you had from it, and can never get that one back again, even with the knobs in the same place.

Good to see you finally got it sorted!

Ok, if the dsp is on when circuit is broken, take the wire coming off the dsp's led, and move it to the top right switch terminal. That will mean led is on when dsp is on. I have drawn everything to look like the parts I use, the plugs I use look exactly like that inside. A multimeter would help you if you aren't sure which connection on the stereo jack does what, but with trial and error you should be able to figure it out. Also, my dad reckons you can use a resistor value down to around 1k, any lower can risky at 9volts. I just use 47k, because I always have. Anyway, I've got no orders at the moment, so I'll be around tomorrow, and will check back to see how you are going.

Ok, I had a few minute spare, got this drawn up, I can't see any reason why that won't work, from memory that is exactly how the vox footswitch I copied once was done.

I didn't realise you wanted to switch the dsp as well as the channels, give me till tomorrow to draw you up a new diagram for 2 switches. I can't see any reason why it won't work with what I'm gonna draw up.

Err, I'm totally lost with whats happened since yesterday, I Figured out how it needs to be wired, and started doing a layout, but had to go tool shopping. So let me know if you are still having trouble, and I'll finish the diagram. But it sounds like you've got it going now, or is it still switching the dsp not the channels? I'm also confused as to why there would be 4 wires coming out of a stereo plug. should be ring, tip1(very end) and tip2(between the two lines on the shaft). Of which for channel switching only, you just need ring and tip2. Anyway, hope its working for ya.

Hi man, I just got up, but I think I know what you are saying, the led in on when the dsp is off. First, If the plug you used is a stereo, change the tip connection to the other tip connection, that should give you the channel switch or whatever the other thing was. Next take the led wire on the switch that is on the far side(not the central connection), and swap to the opposite side of that switch pole. - - - - - - switch probably looks something like that on the back, if say, the led and battery circuit is wired to the centre right and top right connections, swap to centre right, and bottom right, if on left side. That should fix the led problem. If you are still having trouble post a photo of what you've got, and I'll try to figure it out for you. I won't be online much today, but I'll check back in a few hours if I can, see how you are going. Alex edit: just looked at the photo, that's a mono plug, you need a stereo plug. The channel switching must be on the second notch thingy that stereo plugs have.

It doesn't HAVE to be 47k, but 300 ohms is too small, you can try it : the led will last a few seconds, then make a funny popping noise, as it makes that noise it sprays hot plastic onto your eyelids(if you have quick reactions.) Or it will just stop working, I must admit, hot plastic in the eye is much more interesting. There is an equation to figure out the resistor value required, but I've never used it, probably never will, you can't go wrong with 47k. My dad says he's been using a 47k as default for like 40 years. Only time you use a different one, is with high intensity leds, more than 2 leds, or if you aren't using 9v.

Yes, it's badly drawn to look like when it is disassembled. I should really put more care in random stuff like this.

Sorry about the bad picture, I was trying to eat breakfast at the same time, the new one isn't much better, that one I as trying to eat lunch while drawing, and now my lunch is cold If it doesn't work, I'd try swapping the tip connection on the plug. If that still doesn't work, without a schematic I dont think I could do much more, I'll have a looksie for one now, but doubt I'll find anything.

Well that exact wiring worked on my mates amp, and while you are right with the 9v battery, I usually have at least 20 9v clips in stock. So I use 9v for everything.

While amps aren't my thing, I don't know what harm you could do it, but hey if I just bought a new amp, I guess I wouldn't wanna mess with it, for at least a few hours That should do what you are after, sorry about the small size, photobucket started down scaling everything the other day. On second thought, hard wire that to a stereo plug, other wise you'll need a stereo lead I think to amke the jack setup work. If it doesn't work, just rverse the twotip connections. Before you try it, perhaps someone with more amp experience would know if it would work?