RDub

If you're using laquer, there are toners, and shaders. I can't remember right now which is which, and I'm too lazy to dig out my books, but basically, one is transparent, the other is opaque. It depends on what type of color is added to the clear base. A TINT creates a transparent color coat, allowing the grain to show through, or in the case of a candy finish, sometimes an opaque metalic color underneath. If you add a PIGMENT, you get an opaque finish, basically paint. If you're planning on using a laquer finish, it's important to remember the difference. If you want that flamed maple top to show through the color, then you tint the finish, with a product like Trans-Tint. If you want a solid color to hid an ugly Alder body, you would use a pigment, such as Stew Mac's. Hope that helps. -Rob

Yeah, I've been contemplating changing the knobs. Couldn't find them in a shiny finish at the time though. Thanks for that link. I wish I found that before I started this one. Guess I'll have to make another...

Ive got a wooden bracket I made, with a hole in it, and a 2 1/2" pipe flange on it. I use the appropriate size bushing to reduce to what ever size pipe I want to bend on, then stick a torch in the hole, with it set for fairly low heat. Wait until a drop of water placed on the pipe sizzles, then bend away. Made the whole set up for @ $20, including the torch. Clamps right to my bench top, and I built supports on the bracket to hold the torch in place. If going with this method, please use your head, you are working with an open flame. Think things through, and never leave the set up unattended. Did the side for this on it

if you're building from scratch, I don't think it should be to hard to redesign it to be a set neck with a mortise and tenon joint. What are you trying to achieve by trying to glue a regular strat joint?

I noticed that CD in the background, but said to my self,"no one's gonna look that close" Guess I was wrong huh? If only I'd used a different angle, you would have seen the shelf with the hardcore stuff on it. Those are my wife's CDs, I swear!!! Kenneth, The top was done with analine dyes. I put a coat on, then sanded back, then another coat to get the grey color. If you want yours a little darker, you might try Trans tint in the laquer for a few coats. I did that that, but I got it a little too dark, so I sanded back. Decided I liked this look better. If you try the trans tint, you really only need a drop or two, it goes a long way after a couple coats. Good luck. Oh, and I decided against putting color on the headstock, since it was a nice dark piece of ebony. Thought it would look better next to the ebony fretboard.

I've read alot of posts about Titebond II, but that was after I bought a bottle. My first acoustic was done using it, and it's about a year old now, and I haven't seen any issues yet. I also used it to glue a neck lam that ended up being a maple and walnut one piece Fender style neck. The fingerboard surface is the whole lam. with the maple and walnut showing, and I haven't seen any creep there. That's not to say I won't in the future, but I wanted to share my experience. That said, I will be using Titebond I on future builds, as the bottle of II that I have is almost a year old, so I feel it better to start with fresh glue.

I posted that pic thinking, there's np way anyone's going to notice the wife's ballet CD back there...........

I agree with you Mike, that some of cumpiano's methods are out dated, but I still think it's the most important book. Kincaids book is also a great resource. As I found out when starting to learn about acoustics, thre's many ways to skin a cat. I ended up reading any books I could find, and researching different methods before I started, and ended up using a compilation of different peoples ideas, to adapt to the tooling I had. But those books are the best place to start. To the OP. Take your time learning about the reasons behind the way an acoustic is made before just diving in. Then you'll be able to tailer your method to what works best for you. Another site to check out, especially if you want to build a kit, is www.kitguitarbuilder.com . The guy who runs it built all the popular kits, and there's some great info to help you decide what's right for you. And his forum over there's good too. And be sure to use the search function on the forums. Most likely any question you might have has been asked before.

Get the book "Guitarmaking:tradition and technique"(I think thats the proper title) by William Cumpiano. It's the acoustic bible. Also check out the OLF at www.luthiersforum.com.

Actually, the Valvetronix does have a tube even though it's a solid state modeling amp, it uses a 12AX7(not an EL 34) in the power amp section. Vox claims it gives it a tube amp sound and feel. The manual actually explains that you should max the MASTER volume, and control volume with the VOLUME knob. That drives that little tube. With the master down, you're not really driving it. I too, have the 15 watt version. OK sounding amp, but not quite the tube warmth I'm looking for. I've found I can get close to alot of tones with it, but not all the way there. Here's a cool website I found where people share their settings www.valvetronix.net Hope it helps

Actually, the Valvetronix does have a tube even though it's a solid state modeling amp, it uses a 12AX7 in the power amp section. Vox claims it gives it a tube amp sound and feel. I too, ha

Just found this so I'll play... Here's my latest. Call it the Skull. Made for metal, solid body single cut with 24 frets Body Mahogany and Quilt Maple Neck Mahogany Fingerboard Ebony Skull and bones headstock inlay Skull position markers Skull knobs PUPS EMG 81/85 The top is dyed grey with analine dye Back and sides black Finished with Target Coatings Emtech 6000 WB laquer Thanks for looking

I always do mine by hand, then plane it to get it perfect. If you stack one piece on top of the other, it's really not too difficult to get it right. Just double check everything with a good straight edge. I also have the Ryobi saw, and after not being able to get it to cut even close to straight, I threw away the stock blade and bought a Timberwolf blade for it. Cuts straight enough now that I haven't even bought a table saw yet. I even rip braces for my acoustics on it with no problems. The stock blade is junk.

www.woodfinder.com

Is it for you? If so, you're the only one who'll have to live with the weight. My newest is LP shape, lightly chambered Mahogany, and it weighs a ton. But, I don't care,so it doesn't matter.

I haven't used it myself, but a product like Inlace sounds like what your after. Someone else asked a similar question recently, so maybe someone that's used it will chime in. I have a friend witha lazer and I might try it out on the next one I build. Oops, I see you already found another thread on it. Guess I'm to slow.

Take a set of calipers or a compass(the kind for drawing circles) Set it for the distance from edge to tuner hole center, and keeping the compass perpendicular to the edge, draw a line at the proper depth for the tuner holes. If I didn't have to leave right now, I'd take some pics to help visualize this. Hope it helps anyway.

I just measure 1/2" from the edge, and it works for me. But thats for guitar tuners. Whats a Carvin BN? That a base neck? I would measure the edge guide. Then you'll know how far from the edge to drill the tuner holes.

That's actually the reflection of the label on my bandsaw.

I used analine dye to do a burst on a curly redwood top on my Tele. In testing I found that tru=oil went over the more heavily dyed ares alot better if I put a couple coats of shellac on first. If I didn't use the shellac, the Tru-oil seemed to soak into the heavily dyed areas. I would eventually get it built up nice and shiny there, but when I used the shellac first, it went much quicker. As to the Tung oil question, sorry, never used it. Hope that helps a lttle.

Just wanted to show off my latest. Body is mahogany with Maple Neck Mahogany Ebony headplate and fingerboard EMG 81/85 Skull knobs and inlays(Pearl from Andy Depaule Finish is Targets Emtech 6000 series water-based laquer, applied by brush. Stew mac pigments for the black back and sides. The top is dyed with analine. Thanks for looking. Sorry the last ones so dark. My good camera broke, and this is the best I could do with what I've got.

after you take off the rubber, you can cover the posts with thick felt. Just about any big box store should carry it. It's usually with the stuff to put on the bottom of chairs and tables, so you don't scratch the floor. Pretty sure this wouldn't harm finish, but maybe someone knows better than I? I'm planning on using it on a wood stand I'm making now.

In your opinion do you think I'd be better off doing that or spraying it. Spraying it requires me to buy a spray gun and a water catch thing for my compressor but it's a big one and should run a gun. I know the stewmac one would work. I have this idea that spraying is really hard and I'll mes it up. Anyone's help would be appreciated. It would have to be waterbase if I'm spraying. If I had a place to spray in my condo, There's NO way I'd be using a brush.

Haven't tried it, but I think I might have seen a post here. There is a product called Inlace I believe. Try a search for it. I've been on their website and it looks pretty cool. I know Woodcraft carries it.

Check out the waterbased laquer post below. I explain my process for making regular laquer brushable.