Mitch

A set of strings where the high e string is 10 thousandths of an inch thick.

You could also try putting one of the plastic tube cut offs from the wire strippers over the string by the ball end just to cushion the string from the edge but in the long run it's definatly better to polish the saddle.

www.ebay.co.uk

Veeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeery impressive. Is that stone?

Depends on weather you are planning on painting it or not. I read in Melvyns guitar making book that you can wet a bit of tissue, put it over the ding and put a soldering iron on the wet tissue then the steam comes off and swells the wood up and makes the ding almost invisible... Aparently.

Can't you just do this?

That looks more like white purfling to me.

Can I sunburst (spraying) with ink? And can ink be used for dying rosewood black?

Don't tell me no one in the UK has ever used aniline dyes!!

If you dont want the electronics to be seen then you would want coloured perspex or use frosted perspex. Painting with clear paint onto the perspex would give you more freedom in your design. It depends what you want really. I think you will need to give some more information and a picture of the design you want.

Does anyone know where to get them? I'd rather not order from america because of shipping time and price. Do they sell them at craft stores? Thanks in advance.

Jimmy page, Jimi hendrix, the Lynyrd skynyrd guitarists, Joe satriani Etc.

Loving the inlays on the new one!!

Nice work!!

I have thought about this before but I have never seen or heard of it being done. I think you could get round the binding problem by having a seperate binding section for the contour and making some kind of angled binding router jig. It would be the bracing that would be a bit more difficult I would look forward to seeing this done and it would make an acoustic a huge amount more comfortable to play.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!! that first one is exactly the same as a shape I designed!!! Ah well, I'm sure there is no guitar shape you can design without another being similar. Do you have the headstock shape planned yet? Anyway, good luck with the builds!

You don't know when to give up, do you? I mean, I could enter into a discussion about what is and what is not creativity and whether it is in fact even possible to be "more" creative than someone else. But that would be pointless with you, since macho posturing is more your thing. But if you want macho, I can play that too, and much harder than you: To me you're an intellectual dwarf. You're far below who I am, and always will be. And if we were face to face, I would make you cry within five minutes. Whatever you might have to say about me --or anyone else for that matter--is completely and utterly meaningless. But you already know this, and that is why you come to a guitar builders' forum to fluff up your sorry ego. I do believe it's time for you to bow out of the forum again, cool off, sort out whatever problems you're having in your personal life. Then if you're able to come back here with a willingness to contribute in a positive, friendly manner, by all means do so. In the meantime, you have overstepped your role as moderator and should be removed from that status right away. Is that you on that display pic, Mick? Oh by the way i'm gonna have to agree with wes on this one. There is new things under the sun, just not that many.

yep.

If you had a ball bearing running over a kind of railway track with one rail carbon and one rail steel or copper. One end of the carbon rail would be one output and the other end would be the other output and the steel rail would be the input. I can think of a few ways of doing this.

I think you could do this by pot modding. If you scraped away all but 30 degrees of the carbon track away and replaced the stuff you scraped away with wire or solder. Then scrape away a tiny (even along the length of the track) amount of the remaining carbon track to put the resistance up to the resistance you want from he pot. Then hang a pendulum from the shaft. That might work. I know the stew mac pots come apart easily and I'm sure that most others do also. Just an idea. Hope you understand what im talking about. EDIT: I can see problems with the tiny fine contacts in the potentiometer being forced against each end of the track by the weight of the pendulum. There are easy ways of getting round this

Here in the uk (seen it in homebase) they sell plasti-cote crackle paint in spray cans in a few different colours.

Well done. That is one nice little guitar. Something I would have done differently is have a darker coloured pickguard. GOTM?

I bought a blend pot from stew mac and I wired it into my guitar. I definatly wired it correctly to the stewmac diagrams (twice, because i thought it might have been a wiring fault so i desoldered and rewired). The problem is when I have the knob at 10 it plays only the bridge pickup (this is how it is supposed to be) and when it is at 0 it plays all neck pickup (as it should do). But when I turn down from 10 (bridge pickup) it just decreases the volume till it gets to 5 and the guitar is silent then i go below 5 down towards 0 the volume starts going back up but on the neck pickup. 0=full neck pickup 3=neck pickup quiet but no bridge pickup 5=no sound at all 7=bridge pickup quiet but no neck pickup 10=full bridge pickup What i want from the blend pot is a fade between the 2 pickups. I also noticed (when i took the pot apart, couldn't resist ) that half the carbon track on both tracks was white. This must be some kind of isulator. Have I missed something on the stewmac website? Is this supposed to be an alternative to 2 volume knobs? I'm considering just getting a switch or doing this diagram: would this work? (thats a potentiometer by the way) Thanks is advance

Can you use wood dye for sunbursting? Or does it have to be some kind of paint. What should i use? I have a spray gun to put it on.

It's a corvus, dude.