Bionic Dave

if you were set on the current shape and size you would need one heavy and dense wood for the body and some light woods laminated together for the neck. lets say Bubinga for the body and something like Mahogany and Wenge for a laminated neck to give it strength.

1 word for this build "WOW"

Yeah thats the fretting Basics videos. but I don't think the neck he worked on was warped but more hills and valleys. so he removed the frets and re radiused the board and replaced the frets and so on. but if you want the vids let me know I have them online.

For starters don't use 2 different colours. Get an image you want. get the old pick guard off and trace onto the piece of acrylic, then cut out the acrylic and place over top your image, The image can be on paper or whatever. Then use some sort of adhesive to attach it to the back of the pick guard. Try Spray adhesive or contact cement. drill the holes and run through a router table with a bevel bit around the edges and bingo bango bongo your done.

Poor workmanship is to blame here. Next time be more careful and wipe all extra glue away with a wet rag. But there wont be a next time. :D

yeah I guess thats what did it. The neck was to thin when you introduced the glue/ moisture to it. I leave the neck blank alone till the fingerboard is glued and dry for 2 or 3 days. It's been so humid up here too, need some relief and it's only may 5th. Damn you Global warming.

Next time round. clamp the neck along the centre line, About every 35mm if you can. Then wrap the neck tightly in heavy rubber banding or surgical tubing. Like post No. 19 in this thread http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...15&start=15 Ive been using this method for years, Havent had gaps along a board since i began using it I use register pins in the last fret slot and under where the nut will be, then I put my radius block on top of the fret board and then clamp it down never any problems.

@%#* I hate that too. Sounds like you always have problems on the ones you build for yourself. un like me I have problems with them all.

Yep thats where the tops from. but this set and a couple more have been put away or hidden from everyone. I forget his name but the guy with the goat T and long hair in a pony tale, that builds acoustics hides it for people like me and you Grant. He hates to see it go to people that don't build nice basses or guitars out of it. oh and all the really good set's are gone now. just 2A and 3A left. but if you want I know there was about 4 or 5 more 5A sets left in the guitar room locked up in the cabinet.

Here's a quick mockup.

More work done but most likely it for the weekend off to my parents with the wife and kid for dinner. So the back strap is glued in place. I got the body rough cut and routed to final shape + 1/16" Also got the shallow chambers routed in the back side of the top.

Do a search on google I'm sure you can find some specs some were.

There is a tutorial on the site. but there is 3 ways to do it. cut the neck angle into the fingerboard area with your jointer this method is ok, but you do get run out, The other is what I use, you cut the neck angle into the body section of the neck with your jointer. the other is to use your bandsaw and do it as a scarf joint. This is going to be the longest joint in the world though. Tutorial: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=30210

I have a great supplier that specializes in Exotic woods. They just bought a wack load of stock off of PRS because PRS are in a little trouble from what I hear. NO your not Crazy, I had Brian change my username just a couple days ago. I should add that in my Signature. Formally known as PRS_Tait

Got some work done on the neck today. Got the neck angle and scarf joint done. I also have the headstock back plate glueing right now too.

+1 on that chamber the body to lose weight and brightness. And a mahogany neck is the way to go, for a fingerboard Rosewood or Ebony. But if it was me I'd use the maple as a top and go with a Mahogany body + neck. my 2 cents and these days 2 cents Canadian is about 1 US dollar. lol

I'll just be working on the build inbetween morning practice and afternoon qualifing.

Looks Great Paul

Well I was thinking of doing it after the carve. I will cut the body out to rough shape, then do a small chamber the reverse of the body in the top. Then use my small thumb plane to do the reverse carve in the under side of the top around the F-hole. At this point I will then do my rough carve and then cut the f-hole out. If I do it this way I can use my coping saw to do the main part of the f-hole and then a dremel to touch it up. Then glue to body and route to final shape. So I hope to get some work done on this build this weekend. I plan on getting the neck angle done and the scarf joint done as well. then I can lay out the design on the body wings and cut them out and route the chambers in them and cavity cover as well. It's going to be tough to find the time between the build and MotoGP practice's Quallie and race's to eat sleep and drink. What's a guy to do.

Love the headstock Brett. looking good.

Ok then if he wants the board, get a drill press and drill the inlays out, add wood and sand back. Then put it in the 21st fret.

Sweet, good to hear Paul. now I need to try that myself. I'm cutting out the feather template today so I can try doing it on the f-hole. I hope it works. Chris you know I make custom Templates for people if they want. a small price depending on what it is. just need an AI file.

I personally would use the pink bike for my inspiration, and the strap buttons would have the tassels on them.

Ok got the templates all made up for it.

Yep time for a new fingerboard.