MiKro

THere in the problem, Maple Blotches so I with a scrap if I get Blotch, the wipe on and blend works and the spray gun is used for tinting coats. mK

Are you flooding the top with alcohol first or applying it dry (well not dry you know what I mean). I actually mix the transtint with my alcohol. This way I can control the color better. It doesn't take much alcohol and transtint to make enough for use. Sorry I meant mixing if first with alcohol but also wetting the wood as well. okay, Sometimes I have done that, but most times I just dye it and comeback with alcohol to blend if needed. If I want more control, I spray it.

Are you flooding the top with alcohol first or applying it dry (well not dry you know what I mean). I actually mix the transtint with my alcohol. This way I can control the color better. It doesn't take much alcohol and transtint to make enough for use.

Spoke, I use Transtint and alcohol. No worry about raising the grain. No water before or after Just my .02cents MK

Yes

+1 got mine from John, same size. MK

The Fox style bender is the method I use. and yes the slats offer support. supersoft II is a great product and really does help with bending figured wood. They can be bulbs or blankets or both. I use a combination of bulbs and one blanket. Just my way of doing it.

Nope, get a blanket. it will improve your success, TRUST ME ON THIS ONE. Maple is easy with a blanket. Curly and Quilted take a little more effort, but VERY doable. MK

You sure you just don't like Floyds nuts I couldn't resist. It was just there. Take care Wes. So you want to go to Vegas and see Perry this summer when he's in the states? MK

You are welcome Perry, and It's on It's way there . here's a preview of the PH It's rough,

I don't know, but the Vegas trip sounds good to me. I'll see what I can do? Been a while since I threw money away. MK

Have the headstock veneer laser engraved and then fill and then install on headstock, simple process MK

I agree it looks like imbuya. If it is be careful it is a toxic wood. MK

Very very cool. I like it. Yep, that's the way I do it as well. Router tables do make a difference . Also works well for angling the headstock face on a laminated neck blank as well. MK

I have a 3/4" on mine, and it's performed flawlessly. You are a blessed man. Most 14" saws will support some 1/2" and work, many will not. Maybe I need to order the tension spring from the model you have as even the Carter spring will not tension a Grizzly GO555 to allow a 3/4" blade to work. Could be the travel in the tensioner is not as great? Maybe the wheels on yours are not as crowned? That would be a good question for the support group at Grizzly? Whatever the case, enjoy the fact you have that ability. MK

Perry, I have a friend that has a 3/4" x 10" or 11" x 4 to 5 ft Curly Purple heart board that is really nice. Not sure if he'll part with it, but I'll ask. It would be wonderful as a drop top I'll see if he'll cut you some off. MK update: I just talked with Him and I can get some for you. I'll get a pic tommorrow if you want. also let me know what length? He's going to give it to me at his costs. Not sure what that is until tommorrow MK

You may also try Olson blades they are less expensive. I still like the TW blades and others swear by Woodslicer. They are good blades as well. Like I said though, tuning/setup is very important. even though I can get a 1/32" resaw thickness. It is not a useable piece in the fact that it will need to be sanded because of the saw marks and becomes to thin for practical use. The reality is that having that ability allows for better cuts with less waste. It allows the ability to get 2 sets of 1/4" bookmatched pieces from a 5/4 board. MK

Unlike a table saw, the band saw blade is thin and will drift. For reasons I don't understand, the blade drifts in, towards the back of the saw. The longer the space between the two sets of rollers, the more drift you can have. For pretty obvious reasons, this isn't an issue until you begin re-sawing lumber. You want a fence that will allow the wood to feed at an angle, following the drift. FWIW: The best way I've found to help counteract this so far is 1) use a new blade if you're going to do some tall re-sawing or on dense woods, 2) lube up the blade liberally before each cut, and 3) feed it in as slow as you possibly can. Doing this, I managed to re-saw 4" bloodwood on a low-powered Ryobi band saw with almost no drift. More importantly, take the time to setup the saw. then drift is almost negligible. also buy a good blade. I get 1/32" resaws in 10" resaws on mine without drift. Again I cannot tell you the importance of setup. whether it's your bandsaw, tablesaw, or router table and the miter slots and fence systems in relation to the cutting surfaces. Intonation makes for better music. It applies at the tool as well, Guitar or saw. mk

The blade that came with it is crap. By A timberwolf 1/4" or maybe? 3/8", 3 to 4 tpi for resaw. The 1/2" is very questionable on this saw in my opinion. The spring just can't get it tight enough and there is not enough travel in the adjustment. Don't even try thinking that a 3/4" will work. I know they say it will handle it? I'll see about some pics on the fence. Mike

I have the GO 555 and the fence that it cones with is fine. Just add a riser board to it. I will post a pic if you need? I resaw down to 1/32nd" with no problems but don't use anything bigger than a 1/4" blade usually 3 or 4 tpi sometimes 10tpi Mike

PM Sent, Have a black GoToh with 3 1/4" centers MK

I have never met a piece of wood that agreed with that statement. +1 Plane it some and you'll see that it will change again.

An update to this, if anyone is interested? I chose to use a 5gal air tank from HF instead of the PVC route. For the same price as four 4" pvc caps, @7.95ea, I bought the tank. I added a few valves and a new Vac gauge, my other gauge is 30+ years old. As you can see a very basic system but was able to pull 29" vacuum in less than 2mins on the tank. I think that's exceptable? Total parts are still under $100.00. That's excluding hose and bag. Thanks for looking, Mike

This should be the mantra of this forum. I generally go to http://www.joewoodworker.com/index.html for veneer press info. I have been eying the $65 vacuum pumps at HF rather than try an use my compressor. Its the bags that can be costly. So far I have not comvinced myself I need one. the other side is vacumm clamping, probably abit cheaper than veneer bags but you have to buy a special ball valve. Yep Spoke That was the inspiration for this. and as Buter says they are somewhat noisy but I have found that this is exceptable for me. I just wanted to pass on the find if someone is interested in doing the V2 project from Joe Woodworker and save a few dollars MK

Hi all, In my quest for a larger vacuum bagging clamp system I have been looking all over for a venturi vacuum generator for a reasonable price. Most seem to start at 40+ $ well I have found one for about $15. Yep, Harbor Freight has an air vacuum pump on sale for $12.99. I added a few fittings for about $2.25. Well It pulls 26.2 " of vacuum @ 90 psi using 4.2 cfm Not bad for on the cheap. Now I need some caps for the 3" PVC res tanks and I'll have a new vacuum bag clamp system. I know there will be some other fittings as well needed but most are minor in costs. Hope this helps someone like me, that's on a fixed budget. BTW I painted the venturi block Mike