MiKro

It looked more like he was sawing at the string with the pick, combined with the angle of attack would cause it to utilize the string wraps to act as small Spokes like on a bicycle with a card in it. Thus adding the effect of more speed. Just my thoughts on it. otherwise. Pretty useless MK

Maybe so Jon. It has always looked like a good idea. Pick one up and run it through its paces. If it finds its way around the shop till it is kicked under a bench, happily tucked away on a shelf, or on it's way to the sun via trebuchet we will have the answer. If it works well then it is a handy step down/ alternate to a hundred dollar drill press. Peace,Rich Well all, I went by the local Woodcraft this morning and took a look. I go there every morning for coffee anyway. I even opened one up. Unless the ones that ship from Internet are different. The base is a hard plastic/ maybe a pot metal but doubt it, and the the angle joints feel sloppy. Looks and feels MIGHTY weak to me. Just my .02cents. Mike

Very True, It was also a hella ofa lot of fun MK

>snip< >Snip< Peace,Rich P.S. Hey Mike, What are you running for guides on your machine(is it a dual skateboard sized bearings like Carters?)? I have been thinking about upgrading my Carters on my 14" with a single wide bearing, and ditching the smaller bearings. I made this change on my 18" and man what a difference. Rich, I'm still running the bearings that came with it. Carter does not make a replacement for it yet. I wish they did. and yes I agree that wider bearings would be more effective. MK

Just for everyones info the steel city is good equipment and has gotten good ratings. The problem is the service on parts and service in general. I've heard from Woodcraft that they no longer will order steel city because of the backorder and service. I hear alsoi that Steel city is working on this problem as they did not expect the initial influx of orders and hopefully will have this resolved soon. Just what I've heard through the Grapevine!!!!!!!!!1 mk

Funny you bring up Racoons and air nailer! Last year I had Racoons in my attic. no access to it. So my brother-in-Law and I parked my truck next to the house with my compressor in the bed and my Paslode framing gun loaded with 3 1/4" nails and drank beer and ate chicken until the Racktycoon came out of the eves. Yes, I had wired the nose back on the nailgun and had a semi auto nail gun. And yes I shot the suspect. He was found later(postmortem), nailed in the back of head, dead in the next door neighbors yard. One of my most BUBBA moments. It was great!!!!!!! A real feeling of GOTCHA!!!! It only cost me about 4K to repair the damage that he had done in the attic after he was gone. Man, somebody buy this guy a .22! I have one. Just wasnt thinking? If I had used CB longs in a bolt action 22 rifle there is NOOOOO noise. BUt I had cranial methane when this happened? mk

Funny you bring up Racoons and air nailer! Last year I had Racoons in my attic. no access to it. So my brother-in-Law and I parked my truck next to the house with my compressor in the bed and my Paslode framing gun loaded with 3 1/4" nails and drank beer and ate chicken until the Racktycoon came out of the eves. Yes, I had wired the nose back on the nailgun and had a semi auto nail gun. And yes I shot the suspect. He was found later(postmortem), nailed in the back of head, dead in the next door neighbors yard. One of my most BUBBA moments. It was great!!!!!!! A real feeling of GOTCHA!!!! It only cost me about 4K to repair the damage that he had done in the attic after he was gone. Just thought I would let you know, you are not alone with the pesky Racktycoon problem LOL Mike

Thanks everyone, I agree that a sign is going to be mandatory. something like, For My Safety and Yours PLEASE DO NOT DISTURB WHILE EQUIPMENT IS RUNNING It's sad that I have to post something like this at my own home. Mike

Yep I know the feeling of no power and complete darkness as well. and the saw is still spinning down. That's a total FREEZE where you are kinda thing. MK Rick, You are most likely right, A good light and not a strobe. Usually, I would have noticed them but I moved my wood cart out on the drive and it blocked my view. Most of my tools face looking out or are perpendicular to the door, that way my periphial (spelling) vision helps cue me. MK

So here I am working away, a nice day and the Garage door is open. AHHHHHHH!!! The neighbor spies you and walks up and announces their presence OVER the Drone of the dust collector and bandsaw. You just jumped and your left thumb just lost the battle. Luckily it was just a small cut under the nail. IT COULD'VE BEEN MUCH WORSE. Say maybe the table saw, or router. So what if any, do you do to help warn yourself of impending episodes like this. I'm thinking about a big sign and a switch that will turn on a strobe to let me know I'm needed. How about you? I think about safety all of the time and my family knows that if my head is down and I'm focused on something or the equipment is running then wait until I look up. Now I have the interlopers wanting to see what I'm doing. I mean some of these are joggers I don't even know come up and ask questions. Usually I'm sitting back taking a break when that happens, but today? It happened as described. Well enough of my ranting. So what would you do to protect yourself. And No to closing the door, I enjoy having the door open when it's nice outside. Mike

That was me asking Mike. I have had better luck with fewer TPI for re-sawing. I run a 5/8"timberwolf?(4TPI) and a 3/4"woodslicer(3/4 TPI) on my 14" for re-sawing, and 3/4" woodslicer(3/4TPI), 1" Triamster(2/3TPI) or 1" WoodmasterCT(1.3TPI) on my 18" for re-sawing. I have a 3/16", 1/4", 1/2" with higher TPI that I use on the 14" for general and pattern cutting(all general purpose high carbon blades). I have actually found I have to slow down a bit with very oily woods(such as Cocobolo) when re-sawing(even with the Woodmaster CT @1.3TPI). Re-sawing is definately a game of feed rate and tuning, so everyone will be able to make different blades work well for them . Peace,Rich Sorry Rich, And yes I agree that feed rate and tuning make the difference. Like I said the 1/4" TW 10tpi works great on my saw. Not saying that another would work any better for me or not. Just after trying the one's I have it fits my saw and my style. Take Care !! MK

Looks Great Greg, BTW I see you have the Dewalt scroll saw? Is it the model with parallel arm action like the variable speed DW788? If so, those are so smooth running that I have found you can use your Inlay blades in it. I tried my friends out and man was it cool. Use a 1/8" backer for the inlay material and glue it to the backer using contac cement. Make the backer oversize so you have something to hold. when done use some acetone to remove the inlay from the backer piece. Just something I have tried and seems to work fine. Now if I can only get the routing part on such a small scale to work for me Mike

Andy, I have the grizzly 14" ultimate with a riser. I have found that the timber wolf 10tpi 1/4" works Very, very well with my saw. I can resaw up to 11" and still do tight radius as well. I've tried others including the the TW 1/2" 3 tpi for resawing, but have found the 1/4" 10tpi works wonders on mine. Just my experience with it, so take that for what's worth and the grain of salt as well. Mike Mike, You seriously pull off 11" re-saws with a 10TPI blade and have no issues with clearing? Do you slow way down to allow the cut to clear? Andy, 1/4" blade 10 TPI(high carbon should be fine) sounds like a good choice for the cutting you mentioned. If you get into re-sawing I would suggest a very different blade (TPI, tooth set, rake and type of tip). Peace,Rich Yes I do Andy!!!, actually I have 1/2" and 3/4" blades for my saw, but they just don't seem to work as well, and yes I do know how to tune a bandsaw up. I have found that my particular saw likes this blade, so I stick with it. It's kinda like some of my rifles. They like a certain round and they are very accurate, change from that and then the accuracy suffers? Yes I have to feed a little slower but That's ok with me as I have less waste in the end. MIke

Welcome to the foray Buz, First, thank you for serving our country. There are many here that are more than willing to help. So use the search function and ask away! Mike

Thx Andro Thx Jer, The workbench table saw thingy is mine. The only pics of my friends shop are the side bending shots. I haven't built my bender yet. Here's a link to my shop shop Thx Weston I know those worms did a great job I did think about leaving them as well. So I'll see what more have to say and see what trips my light fantastic when the time comes Thanks TM

Thanks, MiKro. It sounds like your method is simpler. How do you ensure that the stain covers evenly? I had a lot of problems last time with the Woodburst leaving clear spots on edges. I've read some about using a much more concentrated version of the stain instead of grain filler, then sanding down to the field, as a way of making the grain darker and deeper-looking. I'm not sure how that differs from doing the same thing with a colored grain filler, as long as you sand back to the field of the wood. "How do you ensure that the stain covers evenly? " It depends on the wood. I usually spray my stain. sometimes I will wash coat it on, then use denatured alcohol as a wash coat to even it up. Other times I will mix the stain with a very light cut say 1/4lb shellac and spray, it becomes somewhat of a toner at that point. Now as to the question of the grain filler and sanding back. I'm not sure how to answer the question where it makes any sense. So in it's simplest form, grain filler does not penetrate into the wood it fills, stains and dyes penetrate into the wood.

Sounds like a p!$$!ng match to me. let it be and move on!!!!!!!! MK

Andy, I have the grizzly 14" ultimate with a riser. I have found that the timber wolf 10tpi 1/4" works Very, very well with my saw. I can resaw up to 11" and still do tight radius as well. I've tried others including the the TW 1/2" 3 tpi for resawing, but have found the 1/4" 10tpi works wonders on mine. Just my experience with it, so take that for what's worth and the grain of salt as well. Mike

Something tells me it's to late for that? I had the same thought. I agree with Rick on this one, A pic would really help. MK

I'm of the old school and don't use grain filler, but if you decide to use it, then I suggest a toner coat of color then your clear coats.Now that's just my way of doing things, since I use my toners and or clear coats to fill as well. This seems to me to give depth to the grain. Again as I said it's the way I am used to doing it and what works for me. MK

Thanks Andy, I think I'll order a 10pack then, and not worry about an account I should have called or emailed them, but it appeared that they only took a $100 order minimum by the website. Btw it's looking good can't wait to here how it smokes Thanks Mike

Update, I cut out the soundholes. After I tried about 20+ variations, I found what looked best to me, kinda sexy in my thinking Not the traditional sound holes, but they have more volumectric area, appoximately 20% more than the traditional round ones. Now my question to you all. The worm holes (yes, that's why they call it ambrosia maple due to the ambrosia worm) look closely on the top, there are (6) six of them. I'm thinking about filling them with side dot markers? What do you think? I would really like some opinions on this? It might look cool then again kinda hokey? link Thanks MK

Thanks Weston, Just come on by!! I got some more done since the last post. The weather has been nice and I have had some time as well. MK

Well Dean, I appreciate your comments and thanks! I will say that there are many great how to's out there that are far better and many are right here at PG. I don't know, having never built an archtop. I will say that a Reso/dobro is different in many ways than other acoustics. The bracing is very different even though the body is really based on a 000 sized guitar. The neck is bolted on here and that is used as well on many acoustics as well as a dovetail joint. The fretboard though is also screwed down to the top with (4) four screws on a squareneck Reso. The fret markers are therefore different so as to hide the screws. Mike

Thanks Rich, I like the Ambrosia maple very well. I think it will look cool on this build. The jig is cool as well and thanks for the compliment. I'm still finding ways to use it and make more stuff for it. MK