MiKro

3 hours ago, peachtree said:

Thanks everyone for the replies! I've stumped up the courage and below is what I have so far - I don't know if it's super clear from the pic but the fretboard laid across the neck plane basically comes in just above the bridge when it's sitting on the body (which is a clumsy way of saying a straight edge across the top of the fretboard extended over the bridge clears the bridge by 6mm, if it's just sitting on the body.

I think this is usable but probs not ideal - especially after frets/action etc my bridge is probs going to be sitting a little too high. I'll decrease the angle a bit I guess. Do you guys agree?

 

First off you have no posts in bridge, so that will help add height to the bridge.

If the bridge is too low then In reality though I would maybe look at it like an Archtop style bridge setup. using some type of wooden saddle to raise the TOM bridge to spec. This would add visual continuity as well as fix your issue.

If the bridge is too high you can always recess the body some.

Just  my 0.02 cents though.

MK

14 hours ago, mistermikev said:

>snip<  it is my sincere wish that whatever those things are/were for you've achieved them (I'm sure you have).  

Not even close Mike.  Still have  4 or 5 guitar models I would like to build that I designed, but most likely will never happen.  Also have other things that I would love to do that won't happen either. It is what it is, my health takes front seat, getting old sucks Big Donkey Balls, having health issues added to that don't help. LMAO!!!!

MK

Finish the last few guitars I need to do and then sell everything afterwards. Getting out of the business. Health issues are taking hold of me.

MK

Before  I went to CNC, I used scrappers all of the time. I still do when they are needed. One of the best tools in the woodworking world. 

MK

@TD1979

First thing I learned many, many years ago, for every coat of clear lacquer, allow 10 days min to harden since you most likely do not have a room to keep the temp slightly higher and constant. Even some 2K clear needs this.

The second, was how FAST the buffing wheel rotates. Any more than 800 RPM is too fast. 600 RPM is optimal with a 12"diameter buffing wheel

Third, never allow excessive heat to build up in or on the surface while buffing. Do not press it to the wheel, let the wheel do the work and pull away often.

Forth, as suggested as well by @Bizman62, use incremental polishes.

Fifth, always use a clean buffing wheel to start a NEW polish and grit.

Just my hard earned 0.02 cents worth!!!!!

MK

BTW, how many frets are on the 24" neck that you have?  If it were a conversion it would have 20 maybe 21 frets and still fit?

MK

49 minutes ago, jowilmei said:

The bridge is about 6 1/4 inches from the neck and there is no fret board overhang, which I believe is a norm for all 24" scale Fender instruments. Therefore I don't think it is a conversion neck. 

The body of this particular model is shrunk to about 93% of a standard tele, but the nut/bridge spacing are all standard. 

Mikro, are you open to commissions?

Unfortunately, I do not do commission work. I was hoping for your sake though that it would be easier for you as far as the conversion neck. Good luck with this,

You may want to reach out to Warmoth about a conversion neck though. Their base line necks are in the $150 range including conversion necks. Just something to look in to .

MK

@jowilmei, Double check that the 24" scale neck is not a conversion  neck as well?  Then you could use either the 24-3/4" conversion or a 25.5" standard. You never know until it is all measured out? See image, this is for a 24-3/4" conversion from a 25-5" scale .Something to check first.

It is common to the Asian community to see a shorter scale. Not knocking them at all, but they are usually of a slightly smaller stature with smaller hands. I have a few Korean born customers and I make custom necks for them for that exact reason.

Just my seeing it from the outside, looking in.

MK

46 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

>snip<

This week I learned twice how to thread a ball nut onto a ball screw!  trickier than you'd think!  finally got her on there and got a new coupler on and got everything dialed back in (thanks again @MiKro for your help!) and my z axis is better than it's ever been... nice and tight.  

>snip<

I am glad it is done Mike, now you have a new skill to add as well. CNC is all about knowing your machine, the work, and the software to make everything as best you can.

MK

39 minutes ago, curtisa said:

The perpendicular fret can be any one you like on a fan-fret guitar. The 12th fret harmonic will still be at the 12th fret no matter what angle it sits at. But the bridge also needs to be angled accordingly for this to be true. 

Thank you for clearing that up for me @curtisa. Like I said I have limited knowledge on this.

MK

I am just guessing here most likely. What @curtisahas said makes sense, Also what I have always understood is that the 12th fret is the one that is perpendicular in the fan. That would make the nut and the bridge location as part of that fan so as to intonate at the 12th fret and also have the correct harmonic for each string. The image that you show is hard to see any relation to this, other than you are using a zero fret as the nut. The rest just does not support any of this from what I can see?

Just my observations and VERY limited knowledge of this.

mk

11 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

thanks @MiKro very much appreciate the input.  I have replaced my x w that sm coupler when it had some issues... they were all the spiral type.  this one has been rock solid.  I wondered about the set screw too but just left it as is.  I'm glad you chimed in, I will take this advice to heart.  Was planning on buying replacements for all... as soon as I get them off and figure out the size.  have a tap and die set so will do the sm.  very much appreciate it!!

As far as taps, use the newer spiral flute type, they work so much better than standard taps.

Depending on the size you need, an 8-32 or 10-32 should do fine for the couplers

Tap link

1 hour ago, mistermikev said:

>snip<  the z axis... just started following down commands but not up commands.  well... took a look at it and sure enough it is slipping on the screw.  Hopefully this is just a broken coupler.  is def a mechanical issue as even with the machine off and working the thumbscrew she slips downward.  Unfortunately I have to take all sorts of things off to get at the coupler.  pretty tired today... so I'm gonna give up and live to fight tomorrow.  >snip<

As far as couplers go I quit using the ones that have the Spriral cut as well as the Buna-N type. I only use these type now and have never had a failure. I did modify them though to add a set screw to go against the flat of the shafts. MK

Link To Couplers

There were also some made with 24 5/8" or 24.625" I do not remember how many and what years though? I am sure it was 60s or earlier.? So Gibson has made them at 24. 9/16" - 24.5625  , 24 5/8" 24.625 and also 24 3/4" -24.75 I think that was all they did for the LP? Some of the other shapes they had I am not sure of.

MK

@mistermikev, Another option for inlay material is to use pearl powder or flakes, like they use for automotive work in paints. Mix it heavy in pearl with a bartop clear epoxy. Make sure the DOC is not to deep as the pearl flakes will settle in the epoxy. Also use a thin base coat of either Gold, Silver or White in the area depending on the pearl and color before., this will enhance it's ability to reflect properly. 

Once sanded or skimmed with the cnc and sanded, it will polish right up.

Just some outside  knowledge I have had luck with. I have used pearl from here. Pearl Link

mk

4 hours ago, Lucius Paisley said:

To prove a point.

How would it be quicker to make a new so-called "correct" body than to use the body I have AT THIS VERY MOMENT?

"that many adjustments" - all that's left is route a new cavity, drill holes for potentiometers and output, apply nut, swap over the electronics, restring then retune and intonate.

Five things.

Versus remove neck, source a new body, do some of those things I mentioned above, then go through all the bulls**t involved shaping the pocket of a left-handed body to fit a RIGHT-HANDED neck and glue that in place, fit bushings, route cavity for the pickup, and so on.

And that's "quicker"?

 Like I said, to me it would be faster to make a new body or just turn it over like Jimmie did..  I have built a Strat from scratch other than the neck in about 24 hours so it is not beyond me. Too each his own I guess. Have a good one.

MK

Not sure why you would waste the time on that? It would be quicker to make a new body the correct way since you plan to make that many adjustments to the original body. Just remove the neck and reuse it on the new body.

Just my 0.02 cents.

MK

51 minutes ago, avengers63 said:

Yes sir! You have no idea how grateful I am that you gifted me that setup what... 10 years ago? It has really made life immensely easier.

>snip<

 

 

Has it been 10 years?  Wow how time is moving forward. LOL!!!

MK

On 4/2/2023 at 3:16 PM, avengers63 said:

>snip< 

Later, I was blessed by a member of this board with a fret slotting setup consisting of a small benchtop table saw, a fretting saw blade ,and an intricate jig using the slotting template that REALLY makes the job easy. 

>snip<

I am very happy to hear that you are still using that setup John.

MK

1mm is only 0.0394". Are you using hardtail bridges? If so then make a new bridge plate with moved holes and then take the saddles and mill them on each side and remove about 0.0025" on each side. This will reduce the width approx 1mm or 0.0394",  The Tele bridge would take more, but I think it would be doable as well.

MK

I have not really thought about a wah pedal since about 1973. LOL!!!!! I had a used Vox wah I bought in 1972.. Wish I still had that one now hidden away.

mk

I would try some more sanding then another layer of epoxy. Use a heat gun or electric hairdryer to heat the epoxy once applied to eliminate bubbles in the epoxy.

just my 0.02 cents worth.

MK

1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

I've often times wondered if there's some professional wisdom about the shape of a guitar, more specifically a consensus about the proportions between the upper and lower bouts, the width of the waist, the angle of an offset body, the depth of a carved top...

There's guitars that please my eye more than some others don't but why is that? Is there a golden ratio hidden somewhere?

The big question is, is there a formula, a universal model for shaping a guitar that "looks right"?

It all started with a stick.

Looks like it is just a covered/glorified pickup ring to me. Should be somewhat easy to machine once the measurements were made.

Just my 0.02cents, MK

10 minutes ago, henrim said:

Unfortunately mine doesn’t have the needle position feature. When I bought that motor for my old sewing machine I didn’t think I need the feature because I had never had it before. My current machine has it and now I finally understand why it’s handy for sewing. But I’ll use the motor as is for sound testing and change it afterwards if I feel I need to.

No problem was just trying to help with a solution. I use the Consew types on small equipment. Convert the  hall sensor pedal or lever to a POT for speed control. They make great consistent torque for there size and weight over a range of RPM. You may still be able to program in the feature though.

mk.