guitar101

I left out some info that he gave me. He coats one side at a time and does not hang the guitar. He leaves the guitar horizontal and level. I used a piece of wood that I screwed into the neck pocket using the four holes in the neck cavity. I clamped this handle into a vice to hold the guitar level. Make sure the minwax spray is warm not cold or hot and don't rush between coats. Tony...

Here is a link to a topic on Minwax. I followed Southpa's advice and got good results. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...l=minwax+granpa

There is a guy on YouTube, Arlo West that plays pine Telecasters. They sound very good so spruce should be fine. His guitars are solid wood.

I remember a product I was looking at at an auto paint store made by Dupont. The name went something like sill and door jamb clear. I think it was mentioned on this forum once. If it's tough enough for a sill on a car door it should be tough enough for a guitar.

Minwax poly has an amber tint. That's the way it is..

Now that's incredible!!!!

Since you mentioned Bill Lawrence here is a link to YouTube. Looks like he is designing a new line of pickups.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELQt9A6UdYQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V17YQk9mLTM...feature=related

My Yamaha semi has an Alder body with a Maple top. Sounds great. The top is only 1/8th of an inch thick. I noticed you intend to make yours much thicker. I'm curious because I plan on copying mine this winter. (first build) How did you come up with that thickness?? By the way I love the body design and the colour.

Try Mighty Mite. They make a compound radius 12" to 9.5" neck with ebony fingerboard for about $125. You could probably get one off of E-Bay . If not just do a search on the Web. I've used their necks before and they are good. In fact I just posted here saying that I preferred their's to Warmoth.

If you go to the Mighty Mite web page, they have a user forum. There is a guy there, MJW customs. He is the resident expert on Mighty Mite parts. He should be able to answer your questions..

When you say the frets aren't set correctly, you're saying they aren't perpendicular to centerline? If thats true, wouldn't that cause a problem? I mean, you'd have 4 frets that are out of position essentially. Maybe I misunderstood that part. Too bad this is a second, cause if that was the case of any neck I bought, it would go back. I never hear much on the negative side about Warmoth necks really, maybe that neck is just a lemon or maybe the previous owner fiddled with it somehow. Who knows, I'd vote to add some finish as well. Even just a light rub of oil helps some. J The frets are not completely flush with the fingerboard they are set in at a slight angle. I don't know how to describe it. it doesn't seem to be causing a problem but the two Might Mite necks I purcahased itn the past were finished better than this one except fot the fret sprout which I sanded down in a few minutes. The neck is maple witha a rosewood fretboard. I'll suggest an oil finish perhaps tung oil. Thanks...

No but I was thinking that if they excluded unfinished necks from the warranty then there may be a problem with the neck down the road. It's his money and decision but I thought a little looking into it wouldn't hurt...By the way I'm not overly impressed with the neck. The last 4 frets aren't set in at 90 degrees to the fret board. It doesn't cause a problem but it looks sloppy.

My son bought a Jcckson which was retrofitted by the previous owner with a Warmoth neck. The neck is unfinished and that is the disagreement. I suggested finishing it because Warmoth won't warranty their necks if it is left unfinished. He likes the smooth feel of the unfinished neck. Any opinions.

This should help you out.. http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks....fuseaction=faq2

I've had good luck buying Yamahas off of E-bay. My favorite is the AEX-520, a semi hollowbody with mini humbuckers. It's about as plain a guitar as ypu can buy. Yamahas are well constructed. Although I've had a few problems with some of the switches. Their necks are nice and well finished. This particular guitar has a nice warm tone with no mud on the low notes and an excellent top end. Picked it up for about $300 dollars in excellent shape no scratches no fret wear. There is a lot out there if you are willing to try different brands.

Let us know what he found it's good to pick up some knowledge.

You can buy a mighty mite strat neck new for about $90 dollars. They do need a finish applied.. I've used wipe on poly.

Is this what you mean??? http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-disc...ron-kirn-4.html There is a demo on you tube of these pickups.

Has any one here dealt with these guys? I'm looking to buy a set of humbuckers off them but Ive been burned dealing with a small supplier before so I am a liitle gun shy.. I would appreciate any comments. http://www.guitaroasis.com/

Check this out http://www.ruokangas.com/ Click on the Mojo Supreme

Out of curiosity from reading this post I measured my Yamaha semi hollow and it has a top that is only .11 of an inch thick. .125 is 1/8th of an inch. I measured an acoustic and the top is essentially the same thickness. I don't know if this is a help but I thought I would let you know.

Auto body clear is nothing like the acrylic in a rattle can. It drys overnight and really hard in a few days. I had my son's guitar painted at a body, shop base coat then clear coat and the results were great. You may have to use their base coat to avoid paint and clear coat reaction. The result is tough and durable. I've had good result using Minwax poly over stain but haven't tried it over paint. I'ts tougher than Nitro and dries fairly fast but not as fast as auto body clear. If I knew it would stick properly to paint I would try it because it is in my opinion tough enough for a guitar finish.