Juntunen Guitars

so you are saying if the grain was horizontal if you layed a guitar down on its back right? so the grain would be like this ----------- ----------- ----------- Instead of vetical ||||||| ||||||| ||||||| ||||||| Or am I still off? My MN guitar had horizontal grain and it never went out of intonation or anything. Every other guitar I have made had vertical grain and they went out sometimes but not very often. I must be thinking of something different than what you guys are talking about.

Very nice, looks great.

I cut it with a bandsaw then belt sanded it. As for cutting it out I will use a jig saw. I used to use those all the time before I discovered we had a band saw at my house ... I should probably mention too that due to cost restraints this is being changed to a 6 string and I will be building a Gibson inspired v as a 7 string then I will be starting another 6 string with a mossy oak camo material top and an 8 string carved top. I hat emy inability to make descisions for my own guitars

I guess I would like to see a picture of how your grain is because I have built guitars with both the grain facing vertical and horizontal and had no problem. Or am I not thinking the same thing you guys are?

Cutting body blanks with one isn't that bad, I prefered that way for a while because it was easier for me to turn a jigsaw to get a sharp cut than a band saw. how smoth is the transition from piece to piece on your radius block? Make sure it is perfectly level so you don't end up with a screwed up radius block and have tiny raises when you radius the FB. There is a good tutorial on the projectguitar main site. I used that with 8 inch pieces of a two by four and it worked great. And that carve looks great by the way.

Haha you know my opinions on wood tones in an electric guitar so we won't go there although the MN guitar I made had a mahogany body ad ash neck and it had a more beefy classic rock tone, it had nice mids and ok highs and it handled bass tones well however they weren't very really the bass tone I like, I think it would suit your style better than it did mine but that's how I think yours will sound, the neck being mahogany will probably give you more bass response though than the ash neck I had. Hmm about Butternut, it's a really soft hardwood, you can scratch it with your nail almost as easy as cedar which I am sure you already know. I think it may bring the sustain down a bit being so soft but yes it looks unique. It kind of reminds me of the old fake wood paneling you see in some old houses. What happened to those oak fretboards you had? If you have red oak you should use that, it barely changes in our winters up here and should you ever make an acoustic red oak makes good sides and back. Red oak also looks pretty cool. Other than that use some walnut or something if you have it. (When are you coming to get that walnut FB for your seven string or did you get one made now? What kind of finish are you going to do? Get some Seymour Duncan Blackouts, those sound great I think.

There is nothing wrong with using a jig saw, it's basically a mini hand held band saw almost. I used those for a long time until I learned how to use a bandsaw properly.

Progress update. Brett you can see how my finger will look for a while now.

I think you missed what I was saying. I was saying I don't joint the thin laminates so say I had a 5 piece neck maple, walnut, maple, walnut, maple with the middle three strips being 1/8th inch or less I don't joint the thin strips but I will joint the main two pieces of maple on the inside edges so the thin laminates get glued on a jointed surfaceon at least one side. So basically I was saying just glue the thin strips up straight out of the table saw. That's the same thing I do I always stress to make sure the edge going against the table saw fence is perfectly jointed so you get a flat cut. I'm a little hesitant at cutting thin strips now though after my saw bit my finger. I was talking to Prostheta about that and he says he doesn't use table saws because they are uncaring beasts.

Well think what you want. I have never had an issue with it, neither has the two othe luthiers in my area. Maybe it works for some maybe not and I'm not claiming to be the best just saying what works for me and in all honesty I have found a lot of things on this site that people say are "the right way" to do things kind of impracticle but maybe that's just me and I'm not saying that everything has been that I have learned a TON don't get me wrong. This site is probably what keeps me building because it always gives me something new to try.

i'll give that a go. Thanks RAD. Yeah don't be using a jointer for thin lams it's scary doing stuff like that. It's foolish to try stuff like that, I learned that the hard way. You mentioned that glueing the strips together right out of the table saw won't glue up right. Thats what I always do with thin laminates and have never had problems. I joint if it's a three piece neck and the pieces are bigger but otherwise I don't and I have never had problems. Just glue them up as is.

How does that make a dual action rod? How have you threaded the rod? Do you have a drawing? Keith Yeah I realized after I posted that that it might be a little confusing. The steel bar part works as a stopper, yes the rod is threaded (the threads go in the hole drilled all the way through the bar) I don't have a pictures right now but I will be making one sometime this week so I will post some pictures.

It's cheapest to make your own. Just get a cold rolled steel bar, cut it into smaller pieces and drill two holes in it, one that goes all the way through and the other half way through then take a rod mark it where a bend would be and heat it with a blowtorch then fold it on itself, insert into the steel bar and there is a hand made dual action rod. That what I do and it works amazingly, I put one in my MN guitar and in the year I had it I chaged strings guages 3 times (heavier each time) and it went through a Minnesota winter and summer which are totally oposite each other (winter averages about -20 F and the summer averages 85-90 F) Either way the neck never moved.

I say they should just agree period, publically or not, spacing should be the same as well as thread size.

Take your time, no point rushing something, especially if you are having financial issues.

Yikes That sounds like it hurt a lot. I almost had that happen, a guy at school thought it would be funny to turn the switch on when I wasn't looking so when I plugged it in it would start right away ... well when the router took off and left a nice gouge across the body of the guitar and had the router shooting at him with me chasing it swearing at him he learned it wasn't very funny.

Table saw, The board kicked back when I was cutting binding strips for acoustics and the blade pulled it and my hand down on the blade. I found it ironic though because at the school my shop teacher always said to use push sticks since I never do cause I hate them but this time I used them and cut my finger.

Has anyone tried making an acoustic with Padauk sids, back and neck? Other woods I am looking to try an acoustic with is Birch and Bloodwood. Has anyone used those?

Agreed, what happened? Have you gotten your shop set up in Finland yet?

How is the hand? It's been better. It is healing though. I tried getting some pictures but only one came up relatively decent. This picture doesn't really do justice though as to how far around my finger the cut is. I wish my camera was better. If I could get the pictures off my phone I would put one up of the xray with how ripped up the bone is and how bad the other side of my finger is. I still can't play guitar with it. I tried the other day and could play most stuff until it came to chords unless it was a power chord I am happy it's looking better though. I wish I had pictures from a few weeks ago when it was still fresh.

I happened across this acoustic a couple days ago. I set it in the shop back in september for a few weeks and forgot about it. We will be getting back to it soon. Recently my sister and I have been testing a new way to bend sides. I am used to bending with a pipe but was given a bunch of sets for steaming or boiling the wood and bending it on a jig. Here are some pictures of some walnut sides we bent today. The side wrapped in tin foil to hold in the steam.

Long time without posting. So the maple top wasn't as dry as I thought and it arced the body so I ran it through the time saver smoothed it out then glued on a maple back in at attempt to keep it from pulling. It has been fine for 2 months so it should work.

Or just post new ones if possible?

My pics are self hosted on my domain. Should be around as long as I am. Peace, Mark So between the two of us - there should be plenty of hosting for those willing to put something together. Ok, killed that excuse Then the issue with photobucket though is if the pictures get deleted or moved on an acount.

I agree, a new forum dedicated to strictly information on how to do things would be good. No one has mentioned Muzz yet, His "Pointy Stick" build had a good amount of info on how to make templates and almost every part of the build. There was a lot of reading in that one though