Juntunen Guitars

That it was. I am excited to see how the new one comes out now. If I could afford this I would buy it, I like the design.

It should say on the the bag of it. I always use 0000 steel wool when finishing since I have never had any luck with sanding and that's how I was taught but yes some steel wool has oil in it. I remember Avenger saying something about the steel wool with oil in his Mockingbird or iceman build thred I can't remember which but it's the one where he ebonized the neck. It might be a good idea to look there.

Nothing like woodworking in a sauna Sauna is dry, not humid :-\ You're thinking of a banya or hammams. I always like cooking eggs in ours.

I made the mistake on a couple guitars by not getting measurments right so I agree with you. Start with the neck because if you get one or two measurments just a hair off (which is not very hard to do) it can throw off a lot of the guitar so start with the neck and build around it.

We have never had a problem with ours, fill it at night and it's still burning in the morning then fill it at night again. One of my neighbors heats his shop with a little wood stove and he burns his scraps and saw dust.

Wood furnace? That's the cheapest way to go, IMO, and it heats the house better than a propane tank does. I'm not talking about an inside fireplace.

A 120 volt will be just fine depending on the size of your shop. How big is your shop?

Hey I use those open flame gas heaters in my fish house and spear house. They work fine. In my shop I just have an electric heater I plug in the wall and leave on low all winter low and medium when I am in there. It works good considering the winters in Minnesota. I'm not sure on what kind of heater it is though. I will get back with that later.

Adding to the CA getting on the board, that stuff isn't fun to try and clean off it either if it gets in the pores. I made a fretboard out of ash and with the deep grain in ash it filled the grain right up around the frets and gave the wood a darker look in that area. If you fill the slot and clamp them in like I mentioned the glue won't fly around. I also forgot to mention that I cut the slots a little deeper than the fret tang so the glue goes down and out the sides which can e filed off then when you bevel the edges.

I agree, that's why I put the lacquer on so I could still have the look of an oiled guitar but still had a clear hard coat on top.

I liked the dark area. That's what made ne like it most, it doesn't look like the plastic fake wood on some tables that way.

That top looks really good. Are you just going to leave it natural or are you going to do a burst?

See that's why I use oil or just a clear coat. I don't like paint or colored guitars much at all. But that's just my taste

I will look into that book. For finishing I either just use Cabot semi-gloss lacquer or Watco Danish oil or Tung oil. I have used Linseed oil once and liked it. I am interested in this book though to see what they say. I will look into it.

Yeah its a good pickup alittle hoter than the Custom 5 I have in another guitar( that’s just something to compeer it too ) but still versatile when the coils are split it gives a nice warm tone and in parallel its hot but not aggressive all in all I think it’s a great pup but that’s just me sweet thanks

I have never used Shellac before but I have some, I might try it sometime. As for the lacquer over the oil I just decided to try it out and see what happened. I have no idea what will happen to the finish over time but it's just as good as it was when I sprayed it over a year ago. I have never used tru-oil honestly and for a couple reasons, mainly because it's to expensive for my taste, I have seen pictures of it before and didn't see much difference in the way it made things look compared to other oil finishes, I have used both linseed and danish oils and I like the way they look better from what I have seen from tru-oil, and the luthier I go to for advice said it looks similar enough to linseed (which I agree with). Who knows I may change my mind if I ever use it but as for now I am not going to be using it anytime soon. I mean this with all due respect and I'm not trying to fight at all I am just saying what it is to me at least and from my experience with other oil finishes.

When I fret I use the radius block to glue the frets on. I radius the board and level it then fill the slot with super glue, put the fret in and slide the hammer across it (I don't hammer frets in) then I take squeeze clamps and clamp the radius block on over the fret until the glue dries. That way you can do about 4-5 frets at a time and have them dry in the exact radius the fretboard is. If I had pictures I would put them up, my process is kind of hard to explain I think.

Beautiful work man. I deffinatly look forward to seing it done.

If it's the look of the tru-oil you want but you are worried about it being scratched off just put oil on then spray lacquer or any other clear over it. I did that on a guitar body with Danish oil and it turned out great. But if the price of tru-oil is a factor for you and that is what makes you hesitant towards putting it on look into other oils like linseed oil and danish oil. They work just as good and are a lot cheaper.

That picture about made my day. I gotta say mixing a twangy tele with a metal guitar is funny. I hate telecasters but love Icemans ... mixed they made me like teles a little more.

Nice looking build, I really like the headstock. Let me know how the full shred sounds, I am putting those in my seven string one I get to finishing it.

I got the neck glued today. It's white oak. I will put pictures up next week when I get back in the school shop.

Looks more like butternut (White Walnut) to me but that could just be the pictures. This will be a cool build I think.

A rasp and a curved file.

NO! Send it to me! you wouldn't want it. The top split apart, the control cavity is way to big, to the point where it is almost thin enough on the edge to push the side in, and the neck was a little off. It was my first attempt at a neck through and I accidenty didn't pay to much attention to anything but how the neck was. This one will be a bolt on so it will work.