mikhailgtrski
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Everything posted by mikhailgtrski
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They may have put some sealer on it - check with MM. And I don't think hard rock maple will take stain as well as western "soft" maple does. If it doesn't you could apply a few coats of shellac tinted with the stewmac dye, then spray your clearcoats over that. Mike
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About all that template is good for is tracing your pattern onto paper. Yes, you'll use the dremel to route the cavities to receive the inlay. Make sure you read and re-read the tutorial and the book until you fully understand all the steps. And practice routing on scrap before you start on the real thing. It takes a lot of practice to route nice tight-fitting cavities. Mike
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Now that I've figured out how to use the Stewmac filler it's going better. I thought about epoxy, but it sounded a bit hard to sand if I messed it up. That mahogany looks really nice with the dark tobacco dye. Maiden, I bought my Warmoth stuff before I discovered PG, and now I've been so inspired and learned so much from all of you that I'll probably start building my own from scratch from now on. I need my own workshop! I suppose I could make a template, but I don't know if I'd build another just like it. My daughter wants a Strat, and I might build a Singlecut-style for myself sometime. Mike
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The Best Way To Make Wood Knobs?
mikhailgtrski replied to Fanatic1's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
FWIW - I think someone here mentioned using a plug cutter. -
Hope you have a few hours and patience to spare... plus a jeweler's saw and lots of blades. I recommend you check out this inlay tutorial and also read Larry Robinson's "The Art of Inlay." I got the majority of the info I needed from those. I lost track, but I think I spent about 80-100 hours on my first inlay. vine inlay Mike
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Maiden/Setch - I'm not filling the maple, just the mahogany The maple will just get stain, shellac sealcoat, and lacquer. Skibum - thanks! No, this one's all mine I may build one for my son later, although my 15 year-old daughter already has dibs on the next one. My son is almost 21 and he's majoring in music technology at Seattle Pacific University. Mike
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Another trial-and-error lesson learned this weekend... The Colortone filler wants to be sanded back after each coat! I made the mistake of building up several coats thinking that would fill the grain, and then I could just sand it back and be ready for dye. All I did was make more work for myself sanding stubborn areas (i.e. the cutaways) where it was difficult to squeegee off the excess filler. After all that sanding work, it needs some more filler. But the Seahawks are going to the Superbowl, so all is good! Mike
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Important safety tip... Do your pore filling before sealing the faux binding! The StewMac waterbased filler tends to build up at the taped edge and it's about impossible to sand back properly. I ended up unmasking the binding to finish sanding the filler, then I re-masked and re-sealed the binding before dyeing the back. I'm actually kind of glad it worked out that way (besides the trial-and-error lesson learned ) because I wasn't entirely pleased with the tinted binding. This time I just sealed it natural with straight shellac. More pics soon... Mike
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+1 what Perry says. I don't think you mentioned the type of stain you're using. I'm assuming it's an "aniline" dye similar to Colortone. This type of stain is meant to be applied directly to bare wood. If you've got varithane or some other sealer on there it won't penetrate. If you've not sanded back properly and left pore filler or sealer anywhere other than in the pores, you'll get blotchiness where the dye sits on top of the filler. Sand sand sand Mike
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+1 Seriously, the GOTM so far this month is a bit ho-hum (except for the cigar box geetars) Go for it! Mike
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I was thinking an LP switch is a single-pole double-throw, and that it combines the two signals in the center position. I'll have to find a schematic and work it out. Ah, yes, you're right, I didn't notice the two output terminals that are normally jumpered together. Leaving them un-jumpered will work for me. WD, Allparts, and a few other have gold LP-style toggles. Thanks again mattia... you're a virtual fountain of knowledge Mike
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I was thinking an LP switch is a single-pole double-throw, and that it combines the two signals in the center position. I'll have to find a schematic and work it out.
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Does anyone make a larger toggle (LP-size) DPDT on-on-on switch in gold? I've searched all the usual places and come up empty. Lots of mini-toggles, but that's it. I was going to use a regular LP toggle switch, but I forgot it needs to be double-pole to keep my magnetic and piezo pickup signal paths separate. A shot in the dark, but I figured some of the experts here might have a source. Mike
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What a cool idea Very nice. I think you'll like the Dremel base. Mike
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"I am also working on my first guitar and think i might be in over my head because today when i was wetsanding my guitar i sanded through one spot. I can't tell how thick my clear coat is and i can't tell when i have sanded enough? I can't get the guitar to dull and flat all in one area there are specks of shine in it." Sounds like you didn't prep your base properly, so now you're having trouble because it's not flat. How many coats of clear did you spray? Did you follow any sort of finishing schedule? stewmac finishing schedule BTW - no need to post the same question in the progress section.
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Despite the lack of a sound clip I'm voting for Godin's lovely creation.
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...and it just didn't seem right to have paua abalone inlay and white side markers residing on the same neck, so I drilled them out and replaced them with some dots I made from paua heart. I can't take any credit for the CNC work It's a Warmoth body Mike
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Progress has been slow, but we're starting to get somewhere... Faux binding masked and sealed with shellac tinted with amber and a little yellow. More to come Mike
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Brazillian Oak Body. Any Good?
mikhailgtrski replied to Speiro's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
This stuff? Brazilian Oak Sounds like it could be quite heavy and hard to work. Great for floors -
FWIW - my Warmoth headstock is 7/16". Mike
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Covering My Bass With Band Logos
mikhailgtrski replied to SweetEmotion's topic in Inlays and Finishing Chat
This was discussed a couple of months ago. A search for "sticker" is all it took. sticker finish Mike -
Thanks. I'll apply another unthinned coat just to make sure. For a washcoat over the stain would you use it full-strength as well? It's a 2 lb. cut straight out of the can. The thinned mix I was using is a 1 lb. cut. One more question - you don't bother masking the binding again after it's sealed, right? I've seen some guys do it that way, but I don't know if it's really necessary, although I'll probably want to mask it when I sand the grain filler.
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(resurrecting an old thread)... Mattia, are you using a washcoat-type shellac mix for sealing the binding? I applied four coats of thinned (2 parts shellac to 3 parts alcohol) Zinsser Sealcoat last night. Tinted it with a bit of amber and yellow so the maple binding won't be so white. Looks good so far, but I just want to check with you before I start staining and find that I didn't seal the binding well enough. Thanks, Mike
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Alrighty then... My headstock is 7/16" thick. The string holes are about 3/8" above the headstock, and the washer + bushing is about 1/8" thick. So if I was using the minis which are .20" or 3/16" shorter, that would leave about 1/16" or so of clearance above the bushing. Not a lot, but enough. If the PRS headstock is more than 7/16" thick, then I could see how he'd have a clearance issue. Mike
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Well, how thick is the headstock on a PRS? The tuner base to string hole dimension is .785". Anything close to 5/8" might run into clearance issues. Now I'm curious - the string holes on my full-size grovers seem much higher than this. I'll have to break out the ruler.