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Everything posted by jmrentis

  1. I've used several bits from MLCS for a long while now and they are still very sharp and do a great job. I have bits from several other places and out of them the MLCS are my favorites. Sharp, strong, good prices, clean cuts. No problems with them for me. They also have several types now like the Katana's and the triple fluted bits which I've been wanting to give a try, but I've had no issues with the straight bits, sheer bits, I even have an upcut spiral for truss rods that works great and was cheap. A flush trim and a pattern bit that have treated me well. I know that many people go strictly
  2. That's terrible Russ, man those are some of the most impressive works you've done as you said, plus you're first. Definitely the three you don't want to get stolen or lost. That rising sun tang top was such a killer rig and that acoustic was just amazing. I remember when you posted that, so many cool features on it. I really hope you are able to recover them somehow, just keep up the hope because it does happen, seen it at OLF where a bunch of stuff was stolen and they got them back eventually. As suggested already ebay, pawn shops, but also check your local Craigslist, even though it'd be dum
  3. Same here guitarplayer, this is the type of jig I use most often. I do not own a wagner planer yet, but I've wanted one for a while, though I probably won't use it much. I've used the router jig thing for everything from leveling bodies, cleaning up headstocks, making laminates/veneers for cavity covers and more. I also use a 3/4" straight bit when using the jig and the same router, lol, except with the fixed base on instead, love that router. As a jig it works wonders, quick, easy, leaves a decent surface. J
  4. I think this is an important tip for several applications. Especially for smaller bench models and people using them for fret pressing and such. Its just a good idea to support the table in case. It takes all of 2 seconds to setup and you alleviate any stress put on the table. This is more important for those using the drill press for fretting, since you'd be repeatedly apply this excessive force in a way that the press never would normally see. Most cases as you said, you probably don't need as much pressure as might be expected, but many people do that just in case, I mean you'd rather have
  5. I have a couple of the stewmac blocks and so far have been pleased with them. I did look around before buying and felt the stewmac one was the way to go, but cost wise the LMI one is a bargin, but personally I wouldn't want poplar. I got a neck support caul from Stewmac that was poplar and when gluing up a fingerboard on a shaped neck the thing busted and shredded something terrible. It definitely wasn't meant for any clamping or anything obviously, but I do like using the radius blocks and such for glue ups so actually the stewmac would make a better price for me since it has multiple uses, e
  6. It's definitely good to mention as already stated you can buy the arbor press outside of Stewmac for cheap. I believe I got mine for under $30 at Harbor Freight and it's totally solid. The only adjust needed to make it work is to drill the post of the arbor press to accept the arbor from stewmac. The way the shank is designed on the stewmac arbor allows you to also drill a second hole to add a set screw to hold the arbor in place. It was a fairly painless process, just drilled out the metal post, which took a little bit of effort, then the set screw hole, tapped that and put it all together, w
  7. Similar. Dougs seems toned down a bit and is more symmetrical, as Jeremy's lower horn and bottom scoop are reversed and the proportions are noticeably different. As cool as I've always thought Jeremy's design is, I think I'm more a fan of this one by Doug, looks pretty nice, though I wouldn't be opposed to having Jeremy paint it, lol. It seems nearly impossible these days to do something that doesn't resemble something else. I thought I had done one that wouldn't have one too close, but a few months later I saw one that had quite a bit in common with it. At least Doug there was wood undern
  8. What do you feel is a good length to go with if your sole use will be solid bodies and acoustics? I did quite a bit of research on straight edges trying to determine what to buy, I checked reviews on each of those listed here minus the notched straight from Stewmac and I came to clear choice of the Starrett, it took me a long time to find enough info to even get to that choice and still thats just based on reviews and my own personal feelings. Home Depot has the 18" version of the Starrett for around $57 which sounded like a great deal to me, but that has no measurements and no beveled edge. T
  9. Not yet, but I will. I'm just terribly slow so I figured I'd wait til I was nearly done to throw up a thread. I just have to finish the small carves inside the horns, then I can start finishing and on the neck I am just about to fret and I still am working out a headstock inlay. Thanks though and I'll get a thread going soon here I'm sure, I made sure to take loads of pics and that wasn't a very current pic but it showed the bevel well. J
  10. Yea, I dig bevels too, especially extreme bevels. I think they fit straight edged designs especially well. Bevels were really the only carve I felt worked with the design that I did. My bevel. It was amazing how much more comfortable the guitar was once the bevels were thrown on there, as I had been concerned it'd never feel comfortable. That Jackson does look amazing. J
  11. Sperzels! Even more so now after my friend ran into tuner issues with a bass and ended up dealing with Sperzel directly, great people, great service, great product. I believe you can just order directly from them now, that is what the owner told my friend. Their number is probably on their site. J
  12. You could try using a heat gun and a razor blade or small pin. Get it hot enough to soften or release the glue and just pry it out carefully. Or do a combo, like do what Wez said first, like drill a small hole then apply some heat as that hole will give you some leverage. You could try a soldering iron even, but I'm not sure how well it'd transfer throughout the shell, haven't tried it on shell. I had great luck with a soldering iron though when I did my fretboard glue up as I left in the set pins I used for placement and they were extremely well epoxied in, however I just touched the solderin
  13. I figured some areas would have very few guns shops and some wouldn't have any, but I never it see it mentioned as a place to find the stuff really, so I figured I'd mention it since technically its where you are supposed to find it. I recall someone linked the actual site itself Birchwood and Casey and it was very well priced. If I used more of the stuff their bulk order was super cheap compared to buying small bottles. It'd probably last longer in a larger volume also. You'd have to check their shipping policies, hopefully they do world wide shipping, but I do not know. I would guess they wo
  14. I've never seen it at Home depot or any hardware store around here. There was a Walmart that carried it, but they stopped. Luckily I have several gun stores around me and they all pretty much carry every Birchwood Casey product practically. They have aerosols, small and big bottles, sealers, and so on. Since its meant for use on gun stocks, might as well go to the source if you have a local gun shop. I really like the stuff as well, easy to use and looks good. J
  15. As for the scarfs looks I agree, but there are ways to hide 99% of the joint. Just by doing the scarf the normal way, adding a headstock cap top and bottom pretty much removes all sign of the joint, then you can even further hide with some binding on the head stock, it ends up nearly invisible. The other idea is something that I am keen on and that is the way Daniel often does it by doing that reverse scarf and laminating contrasting colors and making the joint a feature of the guitar. Either way looks pretty good. But again I do agree a standard scarf without any headstock caps bugs me too, e
  16. Yes, I meant orbital action, don't know why I mixed that up. As for whether to use it or not, just use your best judgement, most saws like the hitachi I mentioned have multiple settings, that one has 4 different levels of orbital action. It depends on the wood and how you plan on cutting it as well. Some hardwoods, you're best bet is to either make a load of relief cuts or drills holes all around it. If you're making many relief cuts, you might as well use the orbital action, but if you drill holes and follow the curves then see if you can get through without it. Just take your time and see ho
  17. Thats a great point J and it also makes it much more apparent to whether or not your saw is up to the task and how suited the blade is as well. If the only way you can get a cut is by force then something is wrong. I think the oscillating feature on jigsaws now will go a long way to increase the saws ability, especially for things like rough cutting a blank and the like.
  18. If you check out Shark inlay I believe Cliff even has a picture in the fretboard inlay section where he did the inlay with frets in place and the inlay was one that spanned across the frets, which is obviously tough. As Bluesy said there should be no problems using the fret tops as a surface, I've tested my dremel router base across fret tops and it was perfectly stable enough to work with. The only part you must think over is whether you can route with the radius or whether you need to have a flat route. For large single piece inlays like blocks and the like, I'd prefer having the flat route
  19. The blade stays pretty well vertical, haven't had any problems with that, but I haven't cut anything near 8/4 stock yet with it. Mainly just thinner MDF and such like 1/2" and 3/4" and some maple I believe. I just looked up the Bosch and it does look like an excellent machine. Features wise I think its the same as the Hitachi, though the Bosch has a bit more in ampage, I think like 6.4 vs. 5.8. Not a huge difference, but a difference none the less. It depends on what you wanna spend and what it's use will be. In your position I know it'd be important to get one of these higher quality saws tha
  20. I found the newer Hitachi on sale for I think $80 or $90 and I can say, that jigsaw is awesome. It was one of a few that had all the features I wanted. I had to go buy it after my B&D burnt out cutting templates. That hitachi can cut over 4inches in thickness in wood, its insane. Has a light, a blower which is a huge benefit, oscillating and all that good stuff. I also like the base of the tool, very flat and sturdy. I highly recommend that jigsaw if you can swing it, it'll cut nearly anything you need with no problem. Also it has super quick change for blades, you just pull a lever it dro
  21. The only thing soap said was to those who would like to save some money the grooved bearings are pointless and in having a woodenspoke bender that I got from him a while back I can attest to the same thing, not necessary. Yes, if you want to spend more money on the tool your are more than welcome, but for those who don't like pissing money away, it was sound advice. J
  22. Ottovola- Neat flame job on that guitar and really like the effort in getting the pickups involved as well. Really a great job on the refinish, keep those project rolling. Andyt-This is one of two I struggled with for my final vote. It is truly inspiration and has had a tremendous response from so many. Just looking at the thread kicked off hundreds of ideas in my head right away, I think it was the clear and black swirl that I find the most interesting. No doubt the foil as a base is awesome, but just the idea to use that foil base and use a clear and black swirl just blew me away, such a
  23. +1 on that bump. My friend and I just our Ziricote fretboards done and they look absolutely amazing and I can't wait to get them on an instrument. One bass board will be a replacement for a friends Peavey that I'm fixing and the other guitar scale will be for my next build. Very nice stuff, will post some pics at some point. Really excellent work, will be sending off for another board more than likely soon as I'm planning my friends wife's guitar, body is already on the way, so gotta get a fretboard going soon here. Anyhow, Erik does great work, far and away my first choice. Jason
  24. LOL, yeah as you saw with my cavity plate it takes someone who works out to get that thing off, lol. I think in an instrument with bigger volume like an acoustic or hybrid like this that'll have wood cavity plates you'll want the strength in magnets to hold the plates on well so you don't end up with some vibration or rattling from it. I hadn't realized how strong the magnet setup I used would be and it really wasn't needed on my project, but I think for this one, you'd be better off using that setup. I can't tell you how neat I think the removeable sound hole idea is, it leaves room for perma
  25. Yeah, my pops had a compound miter saw like that, though not as nice and I tried several different ways to get a 15 degree angle for a scarf and couldn't get there. With a sliding one you could technically, but you'd still need to build a fence somehow that was perpendicular to the existing fence because that is how you'd need to set up the neck to cut it and doing that wouldn't be easy by any means. I ended up just cutting the scarf by hand with a japanese handsaw that had no backbone which would allow me to cut all the way through unhindered, worked well but took a while cutting through mapl
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