cSuttle
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Everything posted by cSuttle
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Very nice, very, very nice. Super air brush work. Are you a professional artist?
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I won't be doing the masking on this one since the manufacture would be doing the rest of the process, but if it were me, I would use a product call Frisket that is like the stuff you find on clock faces when you first buy it. Then it has to be careful cut to the design with an xato blade.
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Yep, it's a double neck. This guitar is even big for one of those. The body is 23" wide. Cool looking design though, which I can't show you yet because it won't be unveiled until the NAMM show. But, if you're familar with Minarik guitar, you probably have some idea of what this guitar looks like.
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Well Chris, the actually color will be picked out by the manufacturer - Minarik Guitars. They ask for my input, but do whatever they want. I'm just responsible for the inlay.
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Well ... she is done at last. More than 16" wide. 141 pieces Whew ... that was a lot of work. It took me 55 minutes just to glue it up. Boy, I sure wish I was keeping this one. I might see about making for of these for me. If you want to see the piece being built, check out my site Shark Inlay and go to the "In The Workshop" section. I documented this from artwork to final project.
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any suggestions??? i wans something striking. I've never worked with shell. Next guitar. What about maple, cocobolo, purple heart, red heart (problem with sun light on this one), cedar, etc. Just anything out the the brown/black range would show up better. Shell is really not that much harder to work with than wood. I a lot of ways I like it better.
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Rosewood on Pao Ferro is going to be almost invisible. Ebony could work, but it won't show up real well, so that would be more of a subduded look.
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No problem dude You feel passionate about something and want to speak out on it. That's a good thing. And, I agree with you whole heartedly.
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Thanks for the info gang. I only use Mammoth Ivory for the reasons stated above. Plus, I like the color better, more tan in color than yellow. I agree that elephant ivory that "pre-ban" is a slippery slope that leads to corruption and fraud. A game I'm not willing to be a part of. Mammoth Ivory is more like a recycling process. The tusks are already scrap rotting in the ground, why not use it.
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My current supplier for Mammoth Inlay material seems to have become unreliable. Does anyone have a supplier for this they could recommend? Thanks
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Have you tried Friskit?
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I haven't posted any cool inlay in a while, so here you go. It's a control cover for a PRS done in Paua, Red Abalone, White/Gold Mother of Pearl on Ebony. If you want to see more picture, go to: www.sharkinlay.com/plates.htm
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I do small run and one off CNC lettering all the time. Email me. Shipping is only $8 to the UK.
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I'm a little confused since Nitro is a clear coat, but be that as it may, I have experimented with Reraunch product and have found them to be quite good. Follow the steps listed on the Reraunch site and you would get a really nice looking guitar.
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Yep, sounds like it. Ok, excluding you. Larry is not on this form is he? Better yet, amend my first comment to include the word "Most", since I'm not sure who else may be on this forum. Probably what I should have said in the first place. For all I know the Duke of Pearl himself might be a member.
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I get mine from McMaster Carr and/or RobbJack. I have found them to be WAY more reliable than Stewmac. The double fluted bit in 1/32" are like $11.
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I vote for epoxy personally. I've done probably more inlays then anybody on the board and this has always worked for me. Of course I have very, very thin gaps on my inlays if any gapping at all, so that could make the difference. I really don't worry about matching that much since there is so little to match. However, I would think that the epoxy would also be stronger since superglue is not really recommended for glueing wood. You need an adhesive that soak into the wood to really be strong. Just my opinion.
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Agreed. This is the way to do it.
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Interesting concept. I've never seen that before.
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3 is thicker than 2 which is thicker than 1, etc. 1/0 is thinner than any of the ones above, 2/0 is thinner yet, etc. The one's I was recommending is 2/0.
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Yes, I have to agree. In fact, I use the Gold series from Rio Grande which is their best blades. The O2 size are quite thin and can brake pretty easy, but that size allows you to turn easier and get the fine detail without breaking the material. A good piece of pearl is about $8, if you wreck that because you didn't have a good saw blade, all the cheap saw blades in the world aren't worth it. $8 is like 3 dozen blades. When you're working on a piece like that one below with no etching (I don't etch or paint fretboards), you'll be glad you have the nicer blades. Just my 2 cent, for whatever that's worth, which probably isn't a lot.
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Sound like you're made a good decision. I did the guitar below. You are looking at about 40 work and about $400 in materials. This is definately something you would have to lead up to.
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I buy mine form Rio Grande www.riogrande.com The size I have had the best luck with is 02
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Your exactly right. If you are doing it by hand, a geometric shape is the hardest thing to do. This is because if you are even a little off on the shell cut or the route it really shows up. However, on a curved design, if you are a little off it really shows. Everyone just thinks you meant it to be that way.
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Looks good. Interesting design. Should make a wicked guitar.