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henrim

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Everything posted by henrim

  1. henrim
    In the middle position both sides should make contact, like it appears to be in the picture. When the switch is flipped, only one side should make contact. What is the actual problem? Are both pickups always on, or are re you not getting any sound? Or there is sound only from one pickup?
  2. henrim
    Another try. I got the scale a bit wrong so I removed the previous drawing and false statement. Actually your headstock looks fine, if the tuners are what I think they are. The middle tuner on the right (treble side), is a bit off though. And spacing on that side is not exact, although not far off. This is now based on an assumption that the nut is 43 mm wide.
  3. henrim
    Sorry. got it wrong.
  4. henrim
    The headstock looks fine to me. Technically and aesthetically. On a more subjective side, regarding the Blackmachine body design. I always get the feeling that the horns are from two different guitars. Their mass distribution is uneven. If the upper horn was a bit slimmer the balance would be better in my eyes.
  5. henrim
    There is substantial difference in hardness between different aluminum grades. But if you have worked with titanium it should be fairly easy to know whether you are working with aluminum or titanium. Aluminum work-hardens too, but I don’t think you get much of that that when working with file or saw. When shaping aluminum with mallet, english wheel or something like that, you need to anneal it every now and then, otherwise it gets too hard and cracks. But as far as I understand it shouldn’t be the case here. Maybe you got 7000 series or something.
  6. henrim
    It’s a gimmick. I don’t have much use for coil splitting but, phase shifting, on the other hand, is a useful tool. Having all the possible combinations on one switch doesn’t do much harm though. What comes to photographic gear, I’m more a prime lens guy. Zooms today are brilliant but I usually know what focal length I want to use so I rather change the lens. Only zooms I have are 70-200/F2.8 and 14-24/f2.8. In between and over those focal lengths all lenses are primes. In 35mm format. On other film/sensor sizes all lenses are primes.
  7. henrim
    Yeah, to me tone is usually one time adjustment. And in many guitars the adjustment is no adjustment at all. On others just a notch down. I know some people use it while playing but that’s not my thing. I guess a trim pot inside the control cavity would be enough for me. Anyhow I have made all my guitars with a tone pot. I’m not set with my current build though. It has only one humbucker. I know it will have a volume pot and a five-way switch for coil splitting and phase shifting.
  8. henrim
    Personally I wouldn’t want a guitar without a volume pot. I could very well live without adjustable tone though. And you can use a no-load pot if you want to temporarily disengage tone pot from the circuit.
  9. henrim
    That's it likely. But if it doesn't help you can always comfort yourself with a new pedal.
  10. henrim
    Yes, that's a pain in the ass type of adjustment in Floyd Rose. Yes, that's a good source for thin aluminium. Clever engineering in the cans. Thickness is variable to minimal weight while keeping enough structural strength. Personally I use Precision Brand shim stock. Gotta love that brand name. Ok products too.
  11. henrim
    For setting and locking intonation.
  12. henrim
    12" compared to 16" may sound like it's more than it actually is in fretboard radius. Here's a drawing that illustrates why the "wrong" radius at the bridge may not matter that much. Like said, it may matter to some people but others may not notice the difference. For someone sweep picking arpeggios at 20th fret it may be the thing. Yngwie with his scalloped Strat may disagree with that, though The upper drawing illustrates a compound radius, 12" at a (43 mm at nut) and 16" at the end of the fretboard (56 mm in this drawing). The other drawing illustrates the difference of a 12" and 16" fretboard at the end of a 56mm fretboard.
  13. henrim
    If you like it as is, then don't change it. Or try shims. You don't need to buy FR shims to try it, just put something under the outer saddles to get the feel. Take ~0,1 mm stock, cardboard or something, and start with one layer under A and B strings and two pieces under E's. Or maybe more, I didn't measure, but you get the idea. The difference is minimal or non existent to some. But as with all playability related it may be a huge difference to some.
  14. henrim
    No, not with set screws. But yes, with shims.
  15. henrim
    No, I don’t know answer to either. What I meant was, in my opinion Floyd Rose tremolo should come with some way to adjust it. Not so that you need to buy some extra parts to be able to adjust it. Though it’s easy to make the shims yourself if you have suitable material for it.
  16. henrim
    Technically the “correct” radius would around 18” to 19” at the bridge, as you said. But set it to what ever you feel comfortable playing with. Unfortunately Floyd Rose is what it is, and shimming is the only way to set the radius. I believe it’s a cost issue. They just bolt the FR as it comes from the factory and leave set up for the customer. For their defense, they don’t know how each and every player wants to set it up. Although, I think a guitar at that price point should come with some complimentary shims.
  17. henrim
    Since the ferrules are not in straight line and evenly spaced I doubt this is neither.
  18. henrim
    If it’s 1/4” off there’s not really much options but to remove the bridge, plug the holes and re-drill. What’s the scale length? If it’s 24.750”, the bass side doesn’t look like it’s that much off. You may want to use a little less coarse measuring device, though.
  19. henrim
    Bummer. I don't have any magic to suggest but, I can tell I've been there. I did the #1 but, while it worked, I felt the frets became too low and then I did the #3. Lot of work but in the end I think it was the right decision in my case. I guess it depends on how much you have to shave off. But if you prepare yourself to do the #3, you might as well try the #2 first.
  20. henrim
    These 5-way thingies are bitch to tinker with. Getting a little bit ahead of time wiring this monstrosity but I just need to make sure I leave enough thickness to the body to fit it when I shape the body. And it’s better to have all the wires attached so I remember to make the cavity big enough on the first go.
  21. henrim
    Acrylic cracks easily. Counter sinking the holes may help some. But better alternative is to use polycarbonate for clear parts that are fastened with screws.
  22. henrim
    Hard to say without hearing the noise. Can be the amp, pedal, cables or your guitar. But, distortion pedals in general add noise. The pedal itself can be noisy or it just amplifies the noise coming from your guitar. If the pedal’s level is set to full, it is more than likely that there is an unbearable amount of noise with high volume levels. A noise gate in the signal chain is the usual solution.
  23. henrim
    Yes, that's cool. I'm not sure if I ever subscribed but YouTube keeps offering me his content. He has done some crazy stuff with pianos and it was an interesting video too, when he tried to use spider's silk to make guitar strings. And even succeeded to some point.
  24. henrim
    My not be an easy option but, if I really really wanted a linear control but couldn't source a commercial one, I'd drive a rotary potentiometer with rack and pinion. Or with belt, thread, rubber band or something.
  25. henrim
    I'd use a potentiometer made for the job. Like this Bourns dual gang pot available for example from Digikey.fi. Other makes are available too. Or you may consider just wiring separate volumes for the two pickups and mix the signal with the volume pots.
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