SwedishLuthier

So I got the Ben-stamp-of-aproval OK…don’t happen in IE. I was too lazy to resize the picture in the first place (in Photoshop) so I just gave them another size in FrontPage. And in IE you don’t get that option when right-clicking a picture. Most of those pictures have hotspots so you can click on the head in the picture and get a blow up of the head. Don’t really know if hotspots are supported by Firefox. Does it work?

As everything in life this also took much more time than I expected. Now the texts are changed and I have a new Font. Tell me what you think. And I had changed that in all the pages and it still was just “New Page 1”. I finally found out what was wrong. I had to open the Frame properties dialogue and go to the frame page tab. There I could change it. And because I use Frames exclusively, all I got before was “New Page 1”. Once again: Thanks guys. You have been very helpful. Please let me know if I can return the favour.

The in progress page is updated with a few new pictures, including a CAD that Rich was kind enough to help me with More to come soon

Very nice. But you should change all but one picture to links. Only one pic is allowed in each post. GOTM and tutorials has different rules.

I have used Norton Sandpaper for a long time. I had done a couple of guitars until I, just like you, noticed that thing on the back about the paper being stearated. I use water borne finish and that is supposed to be even more sensitive for stearated surfaces. But I have had no problems with fish eyes or similar. I have also used their wet-and-dry paper between coats and it is also stearated. So I guess Mattia is right (again):

I scrolled down and found the candy SWEDISH FISH…I need for you to send samples. I have newer ewer heard of those and I demand that I get to do the official approval.

IMO the SG is much more dynamic responsive that a LP. I attribute that to the considerable thinner body of the SG. I have made a Tele with a thinner body and I found the same dynamic response in that guitar. So to make the SG sound more like a LP you might have to beef up the bodu, pretty much like the original SG that was nearly as thick as the LP.

Fryovani, guided by Perry, has showed, through his experiments, that there are factors in building that many, I am one of those, has regarded as pure myths. I had never ever considered the dead length of the string to have an impact on how the guitar would behave and how it would feel to play. I think that that is the goal. Understanding the factors that affect the guitars performance and feel. I haven’t chipped in on this because I have had too much work to be able to do the same experiments that Rich has done, but I will follow in his path as soon as I have the time. I think only reading has learned me a lot, but doing it myself will make me really understand the factors that has been explored. Now we only have to lure Perry into revealing more of what he has found out. Not the results, but directions to go with our own investigations.

I have used it for a couple of guitars. It is easy to spray, ready to spay and can be wet sanded. If you shoot to heavy coats the finish will be slightly blueish and it won’t cure hard enough. Give the coats a little more curing time than the instruction recommend and use light coats and you will be fine. The finish can become slightly white when wet sanding if you let water stay on the surface for too long. It will get clear after a wile, but I have the routine to always wipe of any access water wile sanding. I got the feeling that the finish that has got affected like that isn’t as easy to sand (getting a little softer). I really liked the old StewMac finish, crystalac better, but I cannot get hold of it over here. I will try the KTM-9 from LMII next time. Still it is possible to get a good result with the colortone finish. This and this was finished with colortone, so it is possible to get good results

I only have experience from gluing plastic bindings, but I have used CA for those. I *think* that my bottle of PU-glue say that it will adhere to plastic (at work right now), but PU is really messy to use, and I don’t know if I would use it for a laminated top.

Thanks guys, I have learned that my English really have to improve. I will have a look at it tonight

OK, so now my page for the acoustic build is up. have a look here

OK, I got it done quicker. www.peternaglitschluthier.com is now updated with the texts that Mickguard have helped me with. I would like to send out a big thank you to Mickey for his contribution. Thank you my friend.

Thanks a lot Prostheta. This community is great!! Mickguard has already offered his help too!! Actually he has already reworked the texts, and I will publish the updated site tomorrow or on Tuesday.

J I have search the forum for posts about the KTM-9 but without success. I was interested in trying that. I have used both the old (crystalac) and the new (Colourtone) sold by StewMac. I don’t really like the new as much as the old. The finish is softer and it is easier to get the bluish tone (colour, not musically) with the new one. Have you experienced any of this with KTM-9?

Ah, oh, well, I was thinking electric, sorry. But it is possible to set up a guitar especially for Nashville tuning. To intonate an acoustic you have to alter the saddle or sometimes even the bridge to be able to move the saddle some.

CA will go soft if you use acetone, but that will soften the binding too. But if you use acetone, you can actually melt the binding (not the one on the guitar, but some spare) to produce a filler. This will also melt into the binding and the colour matching will be perfect and no one will be able to see that you have filled the gap. One word of warning. The melted plastic shrinks some when the solvents disappear, so you will have to wait for a week or better two before you finish the guitar. Stewmac sells both black CA and black epoxy. I don’t think you will have compatibility issues with any of these. EDIT: Brian bet me to this

Water borne doesn’t require as many layers for the same build up. I think that it is called higher solid content. Water borne dry quicker. You can sand and buff it within a few days. Nevertheless I suggest that you wait at least two weeks. My experience is that if you have minor imperfections, say a small gap at a binding (not that I have ever had any) a fill it with water bourn, it will shrink down and reveal a line if you doesn’t give it enough curing time. If you spray on too heavy without enough drying in between layers, you can get a slightly bluish finish that doesn’t get as hard as it should. It sands easy and doesn’t smell as bad ass solvent based finishes. But don’t think that you can use it without a face mask. It is still harmful for you to breath the over spray.

Tuning up a half or whole note will not destroy your guitar. Like Southpa said, tuning in open E for slide and other stuff haven’t ruined any of my guitars. Let me also give you an example of how much detuning a guitar string can take. I have made this silly mistake one or two times: Tuning a Strat or other six-in-line guitar I have reached for the g string (or any other) and thought that I was tuning the B! Of cause the string broke before I reached B but I got pretty close. I actually did the same thing with the A sting last week on an acoustic (I am old enough to know better). The string broke close to reaching D but the guitar held up to the extra stress. So there shouldn’t be any problem with the strings breaking either if you only detune a half or a whole step. Ii would start by using the same gauge of strings. I have read a lot of things about the timbre of a guitar changing when tuning up or down. I actually have a dreadnought that is quite boring in standard tuning. When I drop both E-strings and the G-string to an open D–chord something changes in the guitar. It rings out much nicer and the tone starts to breath (hard to describe). Nashville tuning is done by taking the “extra” strings from a 12-string set and tune them as you would on a 12-string. One thing you can do with a Nashville guitar while recording is to lay down a track in standard tuning. Back the tape (or the hard disk, I’m old-fashioned and still records on analogue tape). Sting up a guitar with the Nashville tuning AND INTONATE the guitar for those strings. Now double track the first take and you will have something that sound like a 12-string guitar that is actually intonated!!!

I'm at work right now, so I cannot provide the URL right now. And I noticed that I had a type-o. His name is Steven Kersting. I know that he has some problems with his site from time to time, so this might be the case right now. If he doesn’t get the problem sorted out in a few days I might publish them myself. I got them saved at home, and I have Stevens word that I can use then for an article about pickup winding, so I might just write that article and publish that at my own site later on Anyway, I will post a link tonight.

If you are unterested in the magnetif field in pickups you should hava a look at Steven Kertins page www.skguitars.com He has FEMM simulations of magnetic field for a lot of different pickups. Those simulations really got me to understand A LOT more about WHY pickups sound like thay do.

Rich, I think that I have found the problem. The bender worked smooth and nice when I dry-tested it. BUT I used steel anchor nuts in the main part of the bender and machine bolts through the cutaway press for extra stability and durability (being able to get the cutaway press on and off without chewing up wood every time). When disassembling the machine after the photo shoot I noticed that one of the anchor nuts had come loose. This let the cutaway press move sideways a tiny bit. It was probably the force from trying to bend the wood without sufficient heat that got the plywood surrounding the anchor nut to collapse. How do you anchor your cutaway press? The wood I used this time was .100” thick mahogany thinned down to something like .085-.080 in the cutaway area. I have the LMII side bending video and they recommended that thickness. One of my reasons to use mahogany was that I’ve heard that mahogany was one of the easiest woods to bend. Next Project???? I’m nowhere near halfway through this one!!! Next time I might bend maple sides for an archtop. I have wanted to do an archtop a long time now.

I’m working on a logo that will jump around all over the place, spin and change colour at the same time. Waddayathink? Quite funny to hear that it looks like I have used templates, because that is not the case. OK, I started with one of the themes in FrontPage but the only surviving thing from that is the background, list bullet and the horizontal line. And the pictures in the “about”-page are very well arranged on my computer, but that only shows that I haven’t understood a bit about how pictures and texts are handled in a html-page And there are no clipart! I had to look hard to find graphics to match the text , but yeah, I might have to rethink that. Ones again thanks for the input and kind words.

I have actually not done a satin finish, but I suspect that you shouldn’t buff the surface. I’d say that you should take the finish down as flat as possible and then finish things with one perfect layer of satin. Let’s hope that someone with experience from this can give you better advice. But one thin I can answer is the wet/dry question. If you wet sand the paper won’t clog up as fast as if you do it dry. So the main reason is economical. Save up on paper. Having said that I must admit that I often do dry spot sanding during a finish. I wet sand and wipe it dry to inspect. If I find some place that need a little more sanding I use the paper dry to see the result faster. I only have to blow the dust away compared to wiping and letting dry. And I really like the surface to be clean AND dry to see the progress. Note: I use water borne finish and it might work a little different with nitro.

Thanks everyone for the input and kind words I know my spelling is bad. English isn’t my native language so I am happy for your help. It also shows that the spelling help in FrontPage isn’t very good