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Guitarfrenzy

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Everything posted by Guitarfrenzy

  1. Guitarfrenzy
    I've never seen a GC that does repair work in house. Most can't even do a proper setup in house. They, like most other music stores, outsource to a local shop that specializes in repairs. Ask who they use/suggest and check on them yourself. GBT True, I asked the Guitar Center in Little Rock, who did their repairs, and they send them to a local repairman, no in house, which kinda suprised me.
  2. Guitarfrenzy
    Hope you have a great Birthday, and many more!!
  3. Guitarfrenzy
    Yes, my PM box gets full and I miss a lot of PM's. I've just now got some Swamp Ash ready, as I had sold all the wood I had ready, so I hadn't had any ready until recently, I'll check my PM's to make sure they are cleared out. Please PM and let me get you some wood out to you. As far as the grainfilling goes, I like epoxy of course and it is the hardest to sand. I have also used Stew Mac waterbased clear grainfiller and it's great, easy to sand, and doesn't sink bad after curing.
  4. Guitarfrenzy
    I also like the one stewmac sells, once you get the tension figured out, (watch some Larry Robinson vids if you don't have a clue), it's really good for cutting inlays. The tension is the key, if it's just right, you get the best cut, and don't break as many blades either. The one from stewmac isn't very costly, so I don't see a reason not to buy one from them. Just my opinion though.
  5. Guitarfrenzy
    Is this the one your talking about? Pigtail Wraparound Bridge? If so, then yeah your going to have to angle it like was previously mentioned, Mattia did bring up a good point though, since some are made different than others, it's always best to know what works for the bridge your using. Check out Stew Mac's Fret Calculator it will not only tell you where every fret should be located, but it will tell you where each particular bridge should be mounted. In your case, the bass side post needs to be mounted 1/8" further from the nut than the treble side post. Remember to get everything aligned properly before mounted the bridge, it's very important. Good luck..
  6. Guitarfrenzy
    Carbon fiber rods, like mattia is talking about does seem to not only make the neck more stable, but it eliminates dead spots you'll find on some necks. Since I started using them long ago, I don't think I'll ever build another neck without them. It gives the neck, better tone, more stability, and what else can you ask for. I also like the idea that once you get the guitar setup done correctly, you don't have to adjust it due to climate changes, etc. At least this is my own experience with CF rods, and you should test it out youself though and make your own conclusions about them. As far as adding mass to the headstock, I can see how that would increase the sustain also. Very interesting thing to consider. I've seen builders use CF rods on the headstock also, a veneer on top to cover it, I might have to try that on my next build.
  7. Guitarfrenzy
    sure did sell a ce24, traded up lol if any of u actually own a prs you know whats happened. there probablly the best guitars ive ever played. And there beautiful craft wise. Adam Looks like number 2 is your only option, since number 1 is sold. It's good that you like the way PRS plays, but to my taste there are a lot better playing guitars out there. I personally never played a PRS that had good action, but again it's just my opinion. They are crafted beautifully though!!
  8. Guitarfrenzy
    The neck looks great, keep up the good work... I look forward to seeing more pictures..
  9. Guitarfrenzy
    Yes, I'd have definitely told them about that. You know that's one of the better things about buying from Stew Mac, they stand behind what they sell, my bet is that they'd have sent you another one at no charge. How long has it been since you bought it?
  10. Guitarfrenzy
    So you mean that cheap one checks out dead flat against the Stew-Mac straight-edge ? I mean I'm tempted to buy one then, but I'm so picky about stuff like that, it makes me sick. If my straight-edge was *aluminum* it would be total trash by now. I think it's too soft for a guitar repair shop. That steel one looks quite nice, but the weight could be a problem (when checking a guitar neck). Yes, dead flat, and it was the 18" one, compared to the Stew Mac one. I did buy both of mine a couple of years ago, so either company could have changed their product, but the only difference I could see was that the Stew Mac one has that luxury sticker on it.
  11. Guitarfrenzy
    True, plus they modify them very precisely. So that's why I say, If you have no clue of how it should be slotted, then it's going to be harder to make your own. If you know someone who has one, look at theirs to get a better idea. I'll try to post a closeup picture of the slot by tomorrow.
  12. Guitarfrenzy
    You'll have to host your own website, or use a free site to upload your pictures to. Then copy the url address with the image codes to display it.
  13. Guitarfrenzy
    Been there done that... Just a part of the learning process, what I did was forget to snap the lock back in place and the depth wandered, and rip.. the bearing wasn't riding on the template and I routed into the body and template like you did. What kind of router are you using anyway? Maybe there is something wrong with it. I guess you could make another template that's smaller and start over? That way you can use the same wood again. Good luck and be careful with those routers, they are dangerous.
  14. Guitarfrenzy
    Thanks Thorn for sharing your information with us. What better way to figure out how something was done, than finding out from the actual builder... As far as the CNC goes, just ship it to me, since you have such great templates to work with.. haha
  15. Guitarfrenzy
    Even better idea.. that's definitely what I'd do if I was him.
  16. Guitarfrenzy
    My bad. Well, I'll let you all know how I get on. I was worried about the routing outside after the inside, your going to have to be very careful because it will tearout and ruin the body if your not careful. Why not do what thegarehanman did, route out the middle, then bandsaw the outside, and you could use the body template with a Robo-Sander to be sure you don't have any tearout. Better safe than sorry. Might take you longer, but definitely worth the headache.
  17. Guitarfrenzy
    Yes, Ron uses a CNC machine to do this, but I see any reason you can't do it with multiple templates and patience (like others have suggested). My biggest concern would be how much wood is a safe amount of body wood to leave on the top edges when routing. If I'm not mistaken, he uses the small strips of inlay material to hide the joining of the two woods. That would help hide any small imperfections you'd have. But the key words are "small imperfections".. lol But it definitely can be done!!
  18. Guitarfrenzy
    We all are, and so I see no need for this thread to be open any longer.
  19. Guitarfrenzy
    Yes, definitely a cheaper way to make your own, soapbarstrat pointed that out to me a long time ago, but the only problem was, I already had bought some from Stew Mac.. lol Without seeing how it works, and noticing how the nippers are slotted, you might have a hard time making it work correctly, but I guess someone could take a picture of the way it's slotted for everyone else.
  20. Guitarfrenzy
    If your on a budget the Delta 9" bandsaw is the best for the money. I tend to agree with Wes, it's the only small bandsaw I'd recommend. It's suprisingly strong for it's size. A scroll saw is great for cutting out templates, etc., but if I only had to have one, it'd be a bandsaw, handsdown. That's just my opinion though.
  21. Guitarfrenzy
    I've got a set of straight edge rulers from Stew Mac, and the beveled edge help you get precise. You can buy the almost same straight edge, here for a much better price. I have bought an 18" one from them, and I compared it to the Stew Mac one, and if it's not the exact same ruler, it fooled me. It's even stainless steel. Just wanted to pass on this link. Good luck.
  22. Guitarfrenzy
    Thanks for pointing out epoxy, I thought about suggesting it in my previous post, but I got to thinking, "hum, this is probably his first neck, using epoxy, might need to remove fingerboard if a mistake is made, I better just mention Titebond.. " lol I sure didn't want to be the one who had to help remove the fingerboard, so I didn't even say the word epoxy.. Mattia is right though, epoxy is a great choice but only if you know what your doing and have some experience in building first.
  23. Guitarfrenzy
    Exactly right, if you don't have the money, or aren't going to be doing a lot of fret jobs, then by all means, find something cheaper that works for you. Just as long as you get the same results, and are satisfied with the job, that's all that matters.
  24. Guitarfrenzy
    I totally agree. If you plan on doing quite a bit of fretjobs, then the cost of the nippers are definitely worth the time and headache it will save you. I can't emphasis enough how much easier it makes the job. But, do whatever works for you. Did you check Ebay out? Here's some for $33.50.
  25. Guitarfrenzy
    Titebond is pretty much the standard.
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