Jump to content
Voting in Guitar of the Month April 2024 is now open! ×

guitar2005

Veteran Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,350

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

 Content Type 

Everything posted by guitar2005

  1. guitar2005
    Looks like upper fret access would be real bad.
  2. guitar2005
    This is what I ended up cutting for the headstock. I like it. It still has the tele vibe to it.
  3. guitar2005
    +1 That's how I do it.
  4. guitar2005
    The only way to really do a bookmatch of 12" to 13", safely and without too much waste is with a bandsaw IMO.
  5. guitar2005
    Ok, I refined it a little. Here's take #3 - I think I like this one a little better.
  6. guitar2005
    Nice work so far! For the output jack, this is what I do:
  7. guitar2005
    For natural finishes, I always sand to 400 grit. Always use a sanding block.
  8. guitar2005
    Guys, I need some input on a headstock shape I'm trying to come up with for a custom Thinline project. This guitar is not your average Tele thinline as it will have a wide neck, 12" radius and dual humbuckers. The neck design features an angled headstock and I'm looking for something unique but still tele-like. This is what I came up with: What do you think? The idea is to have something that will sit better on a regular guitar stand but still have a hint of the traditional headstock shape.
  9. guitar2005
    There's also the SRV signature on the back of the guitar.
  10. guitar2005
    That's a sweet bass. Personally, I'd put a precision bass set in the middle and a jazz bass pickup in the bridge.
  11. guitar2005
    By wetting the wood, the grain will raise. Some sanding will be needed, especially if the dent doesn't completely come out.
  12. guitar2005
    You basically have to steam it out. Take some warm water and soak the area of wood where the dents are. With something like clothes iron and a damp rag, heat the dented area as much as possible being careful that the area always stays wet/moist. That should bring the wood back as much as possible.
  13. guitar2005
    I realley feel for you, Avenger. Having to take the frets out must be a real pain the the A**, but in the end, you just have to see it as a learning experience. I'm sure that it will look great when you're done.
  14. guitar2005
    I completely agree. People have to stop building and manufacturing these fake guitars. Its hurting the industry. Its bad enough to have the Asian countries make forgeries and copies, but to have luthiers and/or casual builders/assemblers do the same is uncomprehensible to me. In the local classified ads, I see more and more forgeries. There's always at least 1 active listing of an illegal guitar and people don't always advertise them as such. I pride myself in the quality of my work and would never want to put someone else's name on my guitars, nor would I want anyone to steal my logos, name and reputation to put on their products. People think its ok because Fender, Ibanez and Gibson are large companies. Just have a look at this:
  15. guitar2005
    You'll hve a real hard time making Maple looking like rosewood with just stain, on a previously sealed piece of wood.
  16. guitar2005
    Interesting, I'll have to give that a try. Besides very shallow cuts and sharp knifes, one other thing I've found that helps is to run the piece through at a bit of an angle if its not too wide. Yeah, I've tried that but it feels like playing lotto every time and with birdseye, it will never work.
  17. guitar2005
    +1 on that. The break angle almost looks too steep. My guess is that the strings are touching or almost touching the TOM bridge on their way to the ferrules on the back and this is probably causing the buzzing. The strings must not touch the bridge body.
  18. guitar2005
    Do you have any pics of the bridge/tailpiece?
  19. guitar2005
    I've never had that problem. I would think that its a setup issue.
  20. guitar2005
    The Craftex Drum sander, I got for 665.00, taxes in. It was an open box store demo, discontinued model. All of the other brands/models in the "baby" size were 12" or were open ended. The design of this one seems to be very good... and its a heavy beast @ 200lbs. For the amount of use I'll put this machine through, it should be just fine.
  21. guitar2005
    I ended up finding a great deal on a 13" drum sander. This is what I'll use after the boards come off the bandsaw (new Grizzly polar bear series 14" with riser block upgrade - sold my old one to get this - haven't even used it yet! I'm so excited!)
  22. guitar2005
    I've seen some very nice figured Poplar and birch. If you look hard enough, you might find a nice top to put on that guitar. I'm with Drak. This is a great opportunity to transform the design into something else. You can always build another pine tele down the road.
  23. guitar2005
    I'd put the poplar on the top. On the bottom, its tonal effect will be almost nil.
  24. guitar2005
    its just clamping the binding onto the fingerboard. No jigs needed. Just a straight piece of wood, binding, fretboard and some clamps.
  25. guitar2005
    No - I prepare the fingerboard BEFORE attching it to the fretbpoard. I'll post a pic asap.
×
×
  • Create New...