TeiscosRock

The idea of drilling this guitar makes me cringe... could I slip the wire back through the hole going from the bridge pup route to the control cavity, then pinch it between the bridge and body?

Lemon oil. Or bore oil - bore oil works even better.

So if I run another wire from ground to the bridge, that would help? Where would I attatch the wire to, the casign of the volume pot? Oh... and all I've got is 18 and 22 gauge wire - will one of these work?

Are there any real advantages to direct-mounting pups?

My Teisco is only 1 1/4 inches thick and doesn't need to be nearly that much with the hardware it uses.

Thats the strange thing - there's NO path drilled from the control cavity to the bridge for a ground - it's just connected to the output jack. I found that rather strange considering its a Fender...

Okay, so I just got done hooking up a Tele-sized humbucker in my guitar, all goes well, it works. But I have this buzz that I'm guessing is caused by the hotness of the pickup, but it stops when I touch the control plate. Does anyone have any Idea how to stop the buzzing?

I would think that they are.. backwards. As in, instead of turning the knob to the right to get louder (or turning the tone UP), you would turn it in the opposite direction - turning it left is turning it up. Sorry if that doesn't make any sense to anyone.

Just out of curiosity I was wondering if this finish is Poly urethane.. I'm guessing it is because it seems rather thick.

If its the Behringer strat then its lacquer.

Looks like the ones that look like Riches ARE Riches, just carved into

You would have horrible sustain in comparison. What you cuold try and do is make the pocket as smooth and squared as humanly possible, then cut a block of alder or similar wood that ifts SNUG (the same snug that if it were a neck, you could pick the whole guitar up by the neck without bolts), and glue it in. Then you could rout out a pocket for the narrower neck and drill for the bolts. So to sum it up - fill, rout, bolt

NO. I'm actually using Fender parts. In some cases, I totally refinished Fender parts and then refinished to look old. I always was up front about the fact that they were not actual vintage guitars. Always used the words "replica" in my auctions. The guys at the Custom Shop seemed cool with it. When the SRV #1 tribute Strat came out at Winter NAMM '04, Mike Eldred said to me, "(laughs) you better not make any of these". I sensed there was a little truth to that comment. So I took the hint and stopped. Besides, I realized that all that hard work would just be mistaken as a Fender guitar and not my work. Why should they get all the credit, right? ← Oh i gotcha, for some reason i was thinking you built the whole guitar. My bad. Carry on.

Stew - You're building and selling guitars with the Fender logo on the headstock?

I have a question that I couldn't find a real definate answer on at ReRanch. How many cans of color would I need (the ReRanch cans) to do a guitar about the size of an SG?

i do it all the time.if it is just a small bevel,it goes quickly... ← Alright. I was just curious, because on the project I mentioned in my "Adding a maple top" thread, I'm planning on using an edge bevel to smooth out the transition from the original body to the maple top, rather than try and removing the edge contour that's already there.

I suppose this might be a little of the main topic, but how hard would it be to bevel the edges of a guitar with rasps and sanding?

Yeah just keep the body firmly clamped and keep a light touch. You should be fine.

Thanks. I'm going to be refinishing the neck and body of an old MIJ and I would love to get a similar feel from the neck, and the only way i could do it without marking up a perfectly good finish is the steel wool or scotch-brite. With the MIJ i lightly sanded with some 400 grit after fixing the headstock, and the semi-rough matte feel is wonderful.

I don't know much about routers so I can't tell you anythign about that, but it WOULD be quite fragile. Of course if you can somehow get it down to that thickness in JUST the small area of the switch(es), the fragility shouldn't be a problem. what you COULD do, is cut a hole (square hole in this case) a bit larger than what you need for the switch, then use a small square of pickguard material as a mount for the switch, screwing it to the wood. That way you could leave the top the standard thickness but still have you slider switch, if all that just meant anything to you. This may not be the look you want but its all I canthink of at the moment.

Was it just a steel bar that connected all the pole pieces? If so, you could just make your own...

The simple answer is, quite simply, "yes" HOWEVER. You have to be sure the wood is thin enough so that the switch pokes up (i would think it would need to be no thicker than the average pickguard)

Right now its the basic 60's MIJ piece of junk bridge - thick metal baseplate with two posts coming off it, with thumbwheels between the base and a nice thick metal blade, no way to adjust intonation. As for the rounded edge, I've been thinking about that also. Its a very slight rounded edge.. about the same as a Tele, maybe a bit less than that even. It's already a small guitar, but I suppose I could could construct a template maybe 1/8 of an inch or so, maybe less, smaller than the guitar itself, then run a router with a flush-trim around the edge, giving it a nice crisp edge. That'll give me a nice crisp edge to work with. I thank you for discussing this with me, I just feel like I should run this by someone with a bit more experience, making sure I'm not missing anything important.. By the way, here's a (crappy) pic of the guitar: Its a crappy pic but you get the jest of it.

I BELIEVE they are the same as any Tele - 1 3/4". Its just that like 1/4" (i think?) is the top, the rest would be considered the main body (so say, 1.5" of Ash hollowed out and capped with a 1/4" piece of maple)

Would this help the fastness of a gloss neck? Or would I need to use some fine-grit sanding paper to do this?