bob123

Very cool. I thought about that, but I dont know how to cut them to proper size is my only concern. How would I go about cutting the circles for em?

Google is providing me a ton of resources for green abalone, but no straight up neon green inlays. Id prefer to stay away from the "put a green sticker and clear over it" approach if I can.

Uh why dont you just wire up 2 different circuits and use an ON/ON switch for the output jack?

Ive actually been epoxying it for **** n giggles as a show piece somewhere lol Ill have to give it a try

Hahaha My old MSM was that color May she RIP! Great car! Good luck, Id love to see this followed through.

Hey man, good work on your first go. Practice makes perfect, so next time you know to keep it clean

I went with the "thinner is thinner" approach and used acetone to thin. 10% shouldnt make a whole bunch of difference really, right? Anyway first coat went on today after practicing on some peices first. Dont worry, just doin the top first to keep the glitter in one peice rest of it is going matte black.

cant edit? Anyway, this is intended for polyester resin clear coat applications.

Yes. But will it djent? kidding of course, too much SS.O lately. Looks great man, I wouldnt play it, but it'd certainly be cool to have as a relic/art peice. Good job on that head stock.

Either have merits over the other?

GO FASTER!!!

Darn, I really liked that peice Impulse buy, but I'll use something else, thanks.

this is pretty incredible.... Star Trek level stuff here. GEEKED!

stunning!

Satch was the first to do this... over a decade ago lol.

Ill keep this short, sweet, and to the point 1) found a sick peice of poplar... but I've never heard of poplar being used for a fret board. Its a hardwood, resists warping pretty well, but is it unsuitable for a fretboard for any reason? Googling doesnt provide much help here. Theres no green color ,its all black, purple, and white/brown. ( http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6195/dscf0060hg.jpg if you care to see it) 2) goin with poplar top, mahogany body. Pretty cut and dry. Tones should balance nicely no? 3) titebond 2... I used titebond 3 last time, and I thought you guys were gonna kill me... but that was months ago, my guitar has been sitting in a VERY humid garage, and theres no warping, or movement at all. Glue is cheap enough, but I havent really found a good answer as to why 2 over 3 other then "just because".... If someone can take the time to explain this to me, Id appreciate it. NOT using hide glue, not my cup of tea lol. 4) for grain filler, Im lookin at epoxy. Ive used deft in the past as well, but nothing with as open grain as oak has. Thoughts?

its a 2 part catalyzed varnish. If he was having issues, it was mostly like faulty workmanship (no offense alonfire), but dirty pads, wrong pads, wrong compounds, wrong sanding techniques, etc.

Ill pass on some of my experience. Im not even close to 1/50th as talented as some of these guys are here, but I've made my own mistakes and learned from them. I know EXACTLY what you are doing, you are looking for a cost effective, and good result clear coat. Im here to tell ya, you really truly get what you pay for. You dont need 300$ per pint clear, but a good 2 pack clear that will run about 50$ is what you're looking for most likely. Nitro.... for me is over rated junk, but it has its place I suppose. Catalyzed varnish was informed to me by westheman here, and its just truly amazing stuff to work with. check out mohawk paints.

I have used it, and its absolute pain in the @%% to use. There are better things out there.

Would CA not turn out well for something like this?

Man, I love how you just crank these things out... Looks fantastic man.

haha cheap and effective I like em! Color :

pissed didnt begin to describe the feeling when I unclamped it. Live and learn. Theres a reason im using inexpensive woods

Sanded it down... Im completely ok with the results!

I wasn't sure how to separate the top. I tried in the top corner, ended up snapping a peice of the damn redwood off. Its such a brittle wood, I dont think I will use it again, despite its awesome looks. but... I tried this : (post from other forum) Bear with me haha! when I clamped the top, the sides ended up "pulling out" to the sides (clamp slide, aka I need to figure a better way to clamp these things ) So isntead of scrapping the whole top, I routed out a half inch oak inlay to go inside. Looks like crap right now (I know!), but once glue dries, and I can get it sanded down flat, and get everything back in order, I am confident it will come out well. And I decided to build some router rails... worked like a charm!