bob123

I SERIOUSLY almost left it like this

Finally, my first "successful" build. No real hiccups, only real problem on the way was chip out when I drilled for the string ferrules. Had to redo some stuff with that. I NEED to add a string retainer (over sight!), waiting for proper neck joint screw ferrules, and she will be ready to rock! This is pretty much a straight copy-caster, so nothing special here. Woods -> Neck -> flame maple neck and fretboard Body -> 3/8" flame/quilt top, Mahogany back Finish -> Neck -> Tru Oil (this stuff is AWESOME) Body -> analine black stained back and sides (non grain filled), blue/green enhanced top, finished with house of kolor clear Hardware and Electronics -> Bill Lawrence Stacked humbucker dimarzio True Velvet neck Alpha Pots, 500k switchcraft jack Axemasters compensated brass nut Schaller Locking Tuners havent decided which strap type Im gonna use yet. My last phone got stolen, so I lost a lot of pictures, sorry, but heres how she's sitting now. *Note* I used the bridge to match the ferrule location for body through stuff. It went in kind of an arc, so I matched that on the back side. I will use a ferrule plate next time!

My concern is theres just SO MUCH of it. I really hate wasting. I save some dust for this kind of purpose, but I literally have many trash bags full of it at any given time. I've thought about burying it or decaying it and using it as compost though. I was just hoping someone here had a neat idea they used their chips and dust for is all.

What wood(s) are you using for your neck? If its all maple, you really dont need to seal it... prime and paint like normal. If its all maple and you're just looking to clear it, try this stuff out, works great! http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY if you're using mahogany or other open grained woods, you can use any water based sealer, and sand back. I've used spray max over water based sanding sealer with good results.

Clean and classy, very nice work!

ahahaha the thought has crossed my mind! I don't think tropical hardwoods and walnut are too kind on hamsters lungs though! My only concern with using a heater is its summer time, and very hot and humid, so burning it for heat isn't really feasible. I could store it , but I would amass such a large quantity of it haha

Yeah, I've already done that. Heres a list of suggestions (from your results), you tell me how many of them are viable please. I don't know about you, but I have a LOT of sawdust, and I'm not going to be making fake snow, feeding plants, making home made pincushions, or making facials. Thanks for the "input" -.- (p.s. Im also not making particle board or MDF...) It's also illegal to burn wood without a permit and special circumstances, so thats out too. 1. Mix it with white paint to make fake snow. 2. Use it for traction on slippery roads. 3. Soak up spills in the shop or garage. 4. Feed your plants with it, except if it’s walnut sawdust. 5. Make fire starters. 6. Fill holes and defects in wood. 7. Use it to pack a path. 8. Use walnut sawdust to kill weeds. 9. Lighten the heft of mixed cement. 10. Use it as a floor cleaner. 11. Use it as animal bedding, except for walnut. 12. Put it in a meat smoker for some interesting results 13. Use it as fuel. Click on this link to see how to build and use a sawdust stove. 14. Stuff homemade pincushions with it, or.... 15. Stuff a dog’s bed with it. 16. Mix it with mud for a facial. 17. Absorb used turpentine and mineral spirits with it. (In many cities you can throw these away if they are dry. Otherwise, in liquid form, they have to go to a recycling center.) Searls, Im assuming you have a wooden stove heater? I may need to invest in one of those then.

haha wow... I didn't even notice xD

I am simply bagging them up and throwing them away. I would like to think there is some better use for this stuff. Anyone have any creative solutions?

If it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck, does the same job as a duck... But yes, my wife uses that fake pearl stuff (I was gonna use it to try inlay dots), the pattern is homogenized in the material, and it looks, feels, and behaves like the real deal.

Not debating design, its there, it works, not a huge deal for me, just wondering if theres a specific reasoning for it.

this answer makes infinite sense with cheaper guitars, but on that 15,000$ PRS private stock, it loses meaning :-/ Guess its just one of those things perhaps.

One, raising the resistance on a speaker for a tube amp load will FRY your amplifier (if we're talking enough to reduce volume considerably). Two, the only real safe ways to do what the OP is asking is with a variac (fancy version of an attenuator that vankirk mentioned), or with a yellowjacket to lower output of your power tubes. http://www.tubesandmore.com/tech_corner/yellow_jacket_tube_converter_technical_information Too many variacs to list, you can research on google.

I can't figure it out, and no one seems to have a good answer for me. I am leaning towards the "its more expensive" rationale as my answer, however, on certain guitars this makes no sense (10,000$ PRSi for example). The traditional set neck tenon goes a little passed the neck pick up. The "short tenon" goes into the neck pickup area. The long, deep set, set through (whatever vernacular) goes through the bridge (basically a neck through at that point). I understand these fine. What I don't understand is why these neck heels on the expensive models have to be so large. To my understanding, only a short handful of guitar companies truly contour the heel on their set necks (Dean, Bowes are the only two that come to mind immediately). I know the extra wood helps stability somewhat, but is that needed on a long or even standard tenon'd guitar? Is there some structural reason that I'm not seeing or understanding? Old prsi have held up just fine O.o For visual examples : Why is this happening : Instead of this : or more preferably :

besides this : Veneers are a cheaper substitute for the real thing typically. Not many "high end" guitars out there with veneers. If its for workability, or some specific reason, I would understand it, but he seems to be building at a level that would be encumbent for an "expensive" top wood. Nothing "wrong" with it by any means, just a curiousity of mine is all.

Odd question for you... Your work quality is obviously top notch, why do you use veneers instead of actual tops? Is it because they are "prototypes" or simply a preference?

If I had to guess, he wants to do it, and wants an excuse to get a new fretslotting blade for his table saw. Huntin doug pm'ed me and he lives very close, so I'm speaking with him currently,

That inlay is terrific! Very nice!

:O Well now... Sorry, was afk for a bit gentlemen, plus the site wasn't working on my phone for some reason! As far as me wanting to buy a system to do this, I would love to, but I just don't see myself buidling more then 10-15 guitars EVER! haha, If I burn through these fretboards, then I will consider getting a powerslotting system. My "method" is just not precise enough for me. It worked well for what it is, but I want equal depth cuts every time.

If someone here has a CNC or a good, fast, ACCURATE method, I'd like to send them 10-15 blanks for fretboard woods. Various stuff, including walnut jatoba maple maple maple more maple blackwood gancola alves if you're good with this stuff, lemme know, and a price. I will pay upfront as long as you have a solid reputation here.

man that looks so good! cant wait to see it finished. your fret work is pretty awesome as well!

sears sell's japanese "pull saws" with narrow kerfs for 15-20$. blade size is just a touch over sized .028", so a tang expander, or gluing will be necessary if you are using narrow tang fretwire.

These bridges operate the exact same way as a floyd rose setup. Its more then "acceptable" to raise the post height, thats why they are adjustable to begin with. If the posts you have are ANY kind of "wobbly" get some teflon tape OR thread lock, and you will have awesome tuning stability.

Well, I "refound" this one under my bed, and had forgotten all about it. Since last incarnation, it was kinda beat up, so I had to resand the whole damn thing. Did a better job with the scraped binding, but still an art form I need to master for sure. One concern, I will probably just make another topic for.... the clear coat caused some bleeding of the black on the bass side horn.... am I just SOL here? Id assume so, the only apparent way to fix this is to sand it back and start all over again. If thats it, then, .... Ill just eat it for now. I wanna play this thing haha. on the plus side, the color is very very nice, as is the black pearl on the back! I feel the new color suits the flame better as the purple seemed to get washed out over time. The blue is a litle deeper then this picture suggests. this one is much more close to "color corrrectness" but doesnt show the flame as well lol. Back. This picture makes some mistakes oh so painfully obvious.... some I didn't even notice in person! -.- Scraped binding. Looks uneven in the the picture... I think its just the body contours and the camera. It IS tapered as it goes UP though. Going down its pretty even across the whole body.