zyonsdream

use a thick enough neck blank to avoid the scarf cut and have the strongest neck possible.

nice looking piece of walnut! Ever think about an oil finish?

Also keep in mind that a lot of people will get a rash from fiberglass, even if it's polished.

You can use a flat mount kahler on a carved top but you have to have a flat base for it to sit on and you might have neck angle issues. The highest you can set the saddles is about .640 without a base plate shim.

www.guitarbuildingtemplates.com Excellent templates and an okay price. THye have mocs too. http://www.guitarbuildingtemplates.com/Mockingbird2.htm

I’d personally leave it the way it is cosmetically. It’s a piece of your history and once you do heavy modifications you will never look at it the same again. Take it from someone who didn’t see the value of his first guitar and trashed it. There are a lot of times I wish I still had that old guitar hanging on the wall but I will never have a chance to play it again. I understand having new and shiny guitars that play just the way you want them to but I also understand having a memento of where you came from. If you want that perfect SG then go out and buy one or build one from scratch.

It's about 6 years old. It was one of the first runs when they came back into production. The wah thing is an issue but I guess I just wouldn't play wah with it but I see the limitations. Thanks

You are right, I forgot to map the cener line on the Jet King sample. YOu can see how it was done on the viper. You can go to Staples and have it printed to scale or just print them to scale on your own and tape them together. I hate spending money so I just do it all myself!

Thanks for the info! I might tackle one of these this week. I've been thinking about it for a long time and your pictures have inspired me!

YOu know: I've been spouting this same thing for years now and everyone looks at me stupid. I get my board flat, radius it and pre-bend my frets and then press them in. I usually never have to level my frets after hand. When I tell people this they look at me like I'm stupid. However, I've not had anyone complain about one of my fretting jobs easier and in the future if they ever need work done, there is a ton of fret left to work with. So, I'm with you 100% on this one!

I built an overdrive from scratch once. It will likely be the last one I build too! It was fun but not my cup-o-tea. I give props to those who can really pump out good stom boxes in the world of digital products! Analog rules.

That seems bigger than my Fender but I'd have to check it.

have you ever made one with a standard scale lengh? What scale do you usually use?

Is there any cash to me made off of doing these? Seriously how long can it really take to pop one out. Although yours really look cool! I really like that last one!

For my money I can't go wrong with the SH6N- and SH6B from SD if I want passive. For boutique I like Diesel pickups For active I like the pups that Guitarheadz sells. I have one in my Warlock and it's got the best of the EMG and the livewires and doesn’t have their liabilities. However, I get more people wanting my custom built pickups these days which is nice but it takes up a lot of time making them. I guess I make a pretty mean PAF and super distortion.

I never gave thought to the LED. I was thinking of keeping the same push switch for bypass if I did that I could just use the LED. I guess the whole idea is a bit stupid given the fact that I can just plug into the effect but just for the "cool" factor I'd like to try it once. It's one of the bigger Danelectro pedals (not the little platic ones) and I have not opened it up to see if it's true bypass.

I have an old Fender Lap Steel that I've always wanted to clone. This thread made me want to do it. I have some zebra wood scrap that would be perfect for such a build!

Find a friend at your local wood craft! The manager hooked me up with a buddy to resaw some birdseye maple a while back. He actually did it for free as a favor to the manager. I've since upgraded to a bandsaw that can resaw. Sometimes I troll around the woodcraft store just to meet people. I've become friends with a few that have really impressive wood shops and you'd be surprised at how much you can learn too.

Find out the width of the neck at the last fret. Print the picture to size by using that measurement. Example: that last fret is 2.5 " long. Print the picture so that fret is 2.5" long. That will print the rest of the guitar to scale. I usually put it in photoshop and make a big square around the guitar and use those for calibration points for when I tape the paper together. Once it's lined up, cut the guitar out, transfer it to board and then make your template. If done correctly you can use the template for an exact replica. I don't worry about the neck becuase I use a standard neck pocet and I already have neck templates for all the scales I make. So I make each template like it's a bolt on eventhough I might be making a neck through. I also make one for set neck too (if needed) I had to do this with an ESP viper a month or so ago and I took some pictures of it. On paper http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/ZDG...er/100_3481.jpg Transferred to board and cut out http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/ZDG...er/100_3486.jpg As you'll see, I scribed a centerline so I can line everything up when I route the rough body. Keeps the neck in line with the body and makes sure everything looks straight when it's done.

Quick question. YOu have a headless neck and a hard tail. how are you planning to tune the guitar?

buy a Ryobie 9" bandsaw and learn how to relief cut. No need for such a big bandsaw right off the bat.

Don't know... sounds like you got it to me. Maybe because finding space for the circuit board, any pedal controls, and the battery might not be easy? Well, the guitar will be a telecaster shape so fitting the controls will be cake but for some reason I think it has to be harder than just wiring the board into the circuit

It's actually pretty easy. I got these decals off of Ebay from an Auto store. The shot here is before the orange peel was sanded off and the hardcoat is nitro. The thinner the decal the better off you'll be. These were a bit thick and it took a TON of nitro to get the finish flat> I'd also suggest a poly hardcoat to prevent future shrinking around the decal. Read the reranch site. It's great!

So I’d like to take my Danelectro distortion pedal and put it into my guitar. O I just wire the output of the guitar circuit into the input of the pedal and then wire the output of the pedal into the jack. Set up a stereo jack so the power is cut when unplugged and change the stomp switch to a toggle. Should work right? So why do I have the feeling it isn’t that Easy?

Ya, that's something I've been on the fence about. I personally like the contrast of the shiny chrome and the rusty tin, but have also been thinking about using something distressed, and was intersted to see what other people thought. I've got a few other projects like this in the works, so some experimenting is definitely in order. the lower strap pin caught my eye too. I'd agree that a distressed look would also give the guitar an authentic look. the more I look at that guitar the more I like it.!