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Andyjr1515

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Posts posted by Andyjr1515

  1. On 11/19/2023 at 5:10 PM, henrim said:

    In your solution the hollow bolt acts like a bushing. But if someone installs the same tuners in to an existing guitar with straight holes there is no bushing

    Yes - you are both right :D

    For folks reading this who have no idea what's being discussed, it is this thorny issue for builders, modders and repairers:

    Tuner manufacturers use a variety of ways to support the spindle.  There is no standardisation of method or sizes, which is why when you are replacing tuners it is worth looking closely at the specs of the guitar or bass the tuners are for and the specs of the replacement tuners themselves.

    But yes - in general = the methods commonly used to support the spindle are these:

    IMG_2018.thumb.JPG.a715b5d9d5fdb059440a12c9010184df.JPG

    IMG_2019.thumb.JPG.e538e2362c857a5836e8987c32c74100.JPG

     

    1. A push-in bush: usually used with straight-sided holes (but not always - this one below in practical terms actually needs a larger diameter hole at the top of the headstock to allow the bush to be 'pressed' in!).  Often found on vintage guitars and basses :

    IMG_2022.thumb.JPG.6f4f43a9f0b36b5870123d0a3b534b6f.JPG

     

    2.  An externally threaded bush.  Think Fender.  Here, the bush screws into the tuner body and is a smaller diameter than the body cylinder it is screwing into.  As such, the hole needs to be stepped.  This is usually achieved by simply drilling a larger diameter from the back and smaller one from the top or by using a stepped drill.  It could also be achieved with a sleeve fitted at the top of a straight-sided hole, although I've never seen that in practice.

    IMG_2021.thumb.JPG.eda3784df1eeed524100892178c57a1a.JPG

     

    3.  An internally threaded bush.  These require straight-sided holes.  Here, the bush has the larger external diameter, is smooth-sided and uses a straight-sided hole.  These are often used on bass guitars

    IMG_2020.thumb.JPG.79564db6bfd21828de87331bd6cd65ca.JPG

     

    • Like 1
  2. On 11/8/2023 at 9:47 PM, avengers63 said:

    For the past couple of months, I've been going further and further down the rabbit hole of pickup theory and construction. The magnet type comparisons have REALLY opened my eyes... or ears as it were.

    These two dudes have been an invaluable source of information:

    https://www.youtube.com/@CSGuitars

    https://www.youtube.com/@DylanTalksTone

    They both cut through the marketing, voodoo, and various other piles of BS and get to the real, unbiased information.

    Yes indeed.  Comparisons of just the various Alnico types (III IV etc) show the HUGE differences in both tone and output.  My favourite for a LP-style layout humbucker arrangement are Alnico IV's (4)

  3. Build is coming on well  :)  

    I like zero frets and fit them to many of my own builds.  Yes, as @killemall8 says, the spacer can/should be a lot lower - its only function is to keep the strings in their relative positions and you don't want it to be a source of buzz or binding.

    I'm sure you have this in your plans, but the other thing you will need to do is to add grooves in the fretboard end piece at the headstock side of the spacer so that the string can go from the zero fret directly to the tuner pegs (or string tree) without touching anything else.  That way you maximise the break angle over the zero fret and avoid binding or buzzing of the string over the fretboard end. 

    • Like 1
  4. 1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

    The bass strings now seem more articulate and flavorous, the treble ones still sound a bit ukey especially when strumming chords.

    Yes - I quite agree.  With both sets of strings it's the strumming that gives the game away.   Also, that last note of the last piece - 12th fret, 1st string  - that really is the maximum resonance and not just my playing  :lol:

  5. I've been messing around with strings a little and have come across a set that I think suits the tonal dynamics pretty well.  It is a mixed tension set from Savarez, their Corum Red/Blue set.  The bass three strings are high tension and the three treble strings standard tension.

    I think it balances out the resonances from the strings.  Although this set will allow me to tune one or two semi-tones lower, I think the 'three semitones above standard' still suits best.

    Here's a second set of short demo sounds in different styles, again recorded directly into my little Zoom H2n recorder.

     

     

     

    Finally, the varnish is now hardened and today is final polishing day :)  As discussed before, you can't power buff this type of varnish and application (if you do you quickly burn through the shiny top surface into the flattened/matt lower coats and can end up with a series of contour lines).  Final polish for me is a rigorous hand application of Meguiers Ultimate Compound - a very gentle cutting auto-polish.

      

     

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