Mr_Riddler

@Prostheta yepp that's usually why bigger pieces are quite highly priced. You can find some decent pieces sometimes if you're lucky, but almost every time someone decides to sell them they are gone very quickly.

Well we call it "Masur birch" also. 

This is the only piece I got, wish I had some more of this stuff. 

@Prostheta well I think it's the same stuff, we don't call them karelian birch here in Sweden though. 

Allright then, Last fretboard slotted in this build trio, curly birch on this one. 

42 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Wow.

For some reason a giant carrion spider comes to mind....

Would it be useful to tape up the outer edges leaving a lip to create a sort dam for the resin?

SR

Nah, tried that on the Troncaster while doing the binding stuff. It seeps thru after a while anyway and with carvings it would be really messy and a lot of rework on the edges. Second layer seems to stick around better. If some voids remains I just fill them up with .CA, going to level the top before laquer anyway. 

Of course they can! But I routed them so I didn't have to mess around with the powerdrill 😂

4 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Thirsty workpiece.

Yupp, probably ended up in cable channels too if I'm lucky.

Some pics of how it looks at the moment, the resin just soaked right thru on some spots. So will do another pouring today. 

34 minutes ago, pan_kara said:

wait, so crackle finish is going on that poplar top? (which is awesome btw) I guess you were referring to that other one? 

espen.de - I don't think I bought from them yet, or maybe once .. but once I start stocking up for the next round of builds I'll probably go with them, they appear to have all the things that I'll be needing, good to hear you can recommend them

Crackle finish is going on that poplar burl, but just on the carved edges, The idea is to have the yellow stain visibe thru the black carvings. 

Yeah espen.de got some really nice stuff  

13 hours ago, Prostheta said:

I think they were filled in a previous step, Scott. What we're looking at here is maybe a difference in shininess which makes them seems like voids. Maybe.

<edit: got mixed up in my posts and email notifiers. oops>

Nope filled them yesterday, didn't get all of them with one pouring so will do another tonight. But some pictures first. The 3d effect that appeared with resin was really amazing.

@Prostheta got it from espen.de you should check it out! they got some nice pieces, bought a couple of time from them and allways been happy with what I got. 

@ScottR Thanks, going to do a epoxy pouring on the top tonight I think it's the only way to handle those voids and some other imperfections that can't be sanded away. It will also give a first glance how this will appear under the clear also helps to stiffen this piece a little. Poplar is very soft and chips easily. That's why I haven't drilled for the bridge or pots yet. I'm afraid that will just give me some extra work if I do that before the resin pouring.

@Mr Natural I agree! It was quite cheap also and turned out easy better then I thought when I purchased it.

@Pariahrob thank you! Now you reminded me that I must continue with the Troncaster A lot of work left on that one 😁

6 hours ago, Prostheta said:

That IS a tasty burger.

Thanks, think I will add a black crackle edge on it. Or maybe just go for this not sure yet! A crackle edge could look awesome with the yellow as bottom colour.

Adding some black stain to enhance the figure on this one. 

15 hours ago, ScottR said:

I've net held an ash neck...but I've held ash baseball bats and they feel just great. I've got some I was considering making a neck from .... just because.

SR

Never tried one either but this one feels great, thinking of just adding some black stain and danish oil. 

Yes Ash and flamed maple. 

A neck is coming to life för this one also.

Well I'm really bad at making updates in this thread. But here is some pictures of one build that could turn out quite nice. 

@pan_kara  Cool looking forward to see that build then. There is also lumniscens paint available maybe that is a better option for a swirl, maybe i will try that some day. 

@ScottR Well that's for sure, maybe you don't even notice if someone turns off the lights while playing this thing. It lights up the room quite good  

2 hours ago, pan_kara said:

wow this looks awesome! and cool design

damnit now I'm gonna go online looking for glow in the dark powder ....

Thanks! Do that it's fun stuff! 

Just saw your swirl video awesome build, how about a luminescent swirl?

Well last time I posted I was thinking about doing luminescent bindings. So I gave it some more thought and at least I could do a test piece. But then nobody remembers a coward right? So I routed the channels and made the pouring without testing this idea first. Kinda stupid but in worst case scenario I would just rout it off and start again.

So how did it turn out? Pretty darn good. But still got a lot of scraping left and some areas needs a refill. But I'm very pleased with the result

47 minutes ago, StratsRdivine said:

Pouring epoxy as pour-in-place binding is what I would do too.  The real trick to keeping pigments suspended without settling is to mix in Cab-O-sil, as a thickening (Thixotropic) agent.  This works great in epoxy, and many epoxy mfr's sell it as the primary thickening agent, although may not reveal the common name, mostly known as cab-o-sil, which is finely ground fumed silica powder.  Add enough and the mixture won't even pour.  Add just the right amount and your pigment will stay in suspension fine without settling.  It does tend to add a tiny amount of opacity, making it slightly white. 

Thanks! that's some great info i will look into that.

@Prostheta Well that's ALOT of glow powder  I used maybe 20% Also painted the channels with white paint before the pour that made a huge difference.

That's right and the powder don't dissolve in the resin so it sinks to the bottom of the jar. This isn't really a problem when pouring into a channel that isn't visible to the sides. But when doing a standard binding channel this could result in a grainy line at the bottom of the channel, That would be a nightmare. maybe it's possible to do the pouring with the body standing vertical, or maybe it's possible to do the pouring after 2 hours or so when it's a little more sticky. 

5 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

If I were doing this myself, I would rout the channels for the binding, then dam them up with tape or a thin strip of polyethylene (epoxy doesn't stick to it well). Then pour or inject the epoxy mix into the channel with a syringe. Music Man do a similar process with their "liquid binding" which is injected into a channel cut by CNC. When dried, the outline is cut and the binding is an integral part of the body blank. I wouldn't risk trying it here, however that is one way to go about it.

@StratsRdivine would have better advice to kick mine straight to the kerb I bet. I wouldn't mind trying this using straight off the shelf Z-Poxy 30min. Maybe in the future I will.

Yeah, that's probably the way I would do it too..