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a2k

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Posts posted by a2k

  1. Looks like a great guitar. My wife and I spent some time in Nicaragua in 2010 - it's a beautiful country, but also very poor. I'm sure you know all about that. We did notice some amazing local crafts - pottery, furniture, leather goods (this place was amazing). Very high quality craftsmanship for the price. I was looking for guitars but didn't do any research beforehand and only found low quality "souvenir" guitars. I hope Nicaragua is able to establish some of these trades as exports.

    I hope the adoption comes quickly and goes smoothly! Make sure you build lots of guitars before the kid arrives - they are horrible on both time and money. 

    • Like 1
  2. After a month off to play the new koi bass, I'm ready to dive into the next project. The plan is to do a P Bass with a few twists. While the Koi is a "swiss army knife" do-it-all bass, this next one is going to be purpose-built. I'm going for a more aggressive, biting sound and a feel that inspires you to rock out. I'd also like to keep the build a little simpler and use it as a chance to focus on improving my skills and striving for really dialing in the quality of my work. 

    Here are the details of the project (as they currently exist in my head):

    • P Bass body and neck shape (final headstock shape still TBD)
    • Ash body dyed blue and varnished
    • Wood pick guard made of quilted maple
    • Flame maple neck (hopefully one piece - more on that in a minute)
    • Birds-eye maple fingerboard
    • Clover style Hipshot tuners
    • Vintage style Gotoh bridge
    • EMG Geezer Butler P passive pickups
    • Stainless steel frets

    My thinking is that the pickups, steel frets, and maple neck are all going to give it a brighter, cutting sound. The P shape and the translucent Ash body will keep it grounded in rock-n-roll tradition, and the three different maple figures will give it a little visual pop to keep it from looking like "just another P bass". 

    Most of the hardware has been ordered (and arrived). I've got the fingerboard (I decided to get a pre-slotted one - that was my least favorite part of the last build and now that I can say I've done it, I feel okay not cutting the slots). Now I just need to get the neck and body wood.

    Last week I headed back to Shinkiba for some wood shopping. I stopped off at the exotic wood shop to check out the selection but they didn't have anything the right size so I headed down the street to talk with the same guys I got the wood from last time. Here they are literally calling around for me to see about what they had that might work.

    IMG_0609.jpg

    They had a few big pieces of ash for me to choose from but had to call around for maple. They emailed me a couple options. They are wide enough to make the entire neck (including headstock) out of one piece, but are flat sawn and I'm a little worried about stability.

    maple18.jpg

    Here's the other side:

    maple15.jpg

    You can see from the first picture that the piece is pretty symmetrical and from the middle of the cut - my gut tells me it'll be okay, but I'm not sure. I've heard some people will rip a piece like this into three sections and flip the middle one, but I'm really hoping to keep this one piece. Admittedly, my reasoning for this is purely aesthetic, so I'll give if I have to. Any thoughts? 

    I ordered a template to work from - my plan for this week is to make a copy of it on thicker 20mm MDF. I'll be back in the shop tomorrow!

  3. As an aside... You'd think Japan would be loaded with places to find all of these fancy or unique Japanese tools, but in fact I haven't had much luck (with the exception of Japanese saws which are everywhere). The few tools I've found have been very expensive - it's much cheaper to get Japanese tools shipped over from Amazon.com. There is supposed to be a carpenter's tool district in Osaka but I haven't been. 

    Also, those liogier rasps sound fantastic. 

  4. Welcome! I think it's worth investing in a good rasp if you don't already have one. Not too expensive and you can use it through the the project, from smoothing out template to comfort cuts to neck shaping. 

    I made my template by printing out a bunch of 8.5x11 sheets, taping them together, gluing it onto mdf, cutting out with a jig saw, and then rasping and sanding from there. Worked pretty well and definitely 5 minutes work on a template can save you hours of work on wood  

    A few ideas on getting the tools you need without breaking the bank: Some communities have tool libraries - depending on where you live that might be an option. And there's always the retired dudes with garages packed full of tools and heads packed full of knowledge itching to help. And then there are professional shops who are happy to do a few simple cuts or other tasks for a few bucks. 

  5. I kept a notebook in Evernote with a checklist I worked through. I would move items from the big checklist into a smaller "this week" checklist, and then make sure I had all of the measurements/drawings/plans written down before I walked into the shop. Still, I can't tell you how many nights over the past 6 months that I've lain in bed turning over ideas and overthinking little details. 

    Parts are starting to arrive for project #2. I'm excited for the project and to get back in the shop. Build thread still to come...

  6. 7 minutes ago, SIMpleONe89 said:

    Wow this is an amazing bass for your first project. Definitely very inspirational! I intend to build a neck through bass in the near future and this really helped! 

    Thanks! I think I documented almost every step (and almost every mistake) so hopefully it shows a good picture of the process. Let me know if you have any questions  (because, you know, after doing this once I'm totally an expert :thumb:). I look forward to seeing your build!

    • Like 1
  7. 13 hours ago, Norris said:

    Unfinished project of the month? That's all I'm likely to enter! :D

    Fabulous bass btw - I don't think I've commented on your build thread yet, but it's providing lots of inspiration for my next build (if I ever get there!) ... which will be a bass, being a bass player and all that

    Thanks! I enjoy following along with your project - it's amazing how much seeing others work through this speeds up learning. I look forward to seeing your bass. I plan on building a guitar at some point soon (because I want a guitar - ideally something PRS inspired so i gotta get my build chops up), but the next project is going to be another bass. 

  8. Presenting the Koi Bass.

    This is my first build. Those that have followed along in my build thread (thank you!) know that I'm an American living in Japan. I got the bug for a new 5 string bass while exploring Ochanomizu, the "guitar district" of Tokyo. I tiny voice somewhere in the back of my head suggested I build the bass instead of buy it and I was off. This build brought me all over the Tokyo region exploring many parts of the city where few foreigners ever tread in search of supplies. It has been a lot of fun and a tremendous learning experience. And while I cured my bug for a new bass, I've developed a new and stronger bug in building them. 

    Here's the build thread:

    http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48283-5-string-bass-build-its-gonna-be-huge-in-japan/

    Anyway, on to the bass. It's a 34" 5 string with neck through construction. I started with a drawing on my computer inspired by the work of some of the modern Japanese builders I'd seen in Ochanomizu, made a template out of of MDF, and worked from there. 

    • The body is mahogany with quilted maple front and back
    • Headstock has matching quilted maple top
    • I cut the cavity cover out of the back wood so it matches the grain.
    • The neck is made of 7 pieces sandwiched together - 3 maple and 4 walnut.
    • The bass is finished with 5 coats of Watco Danish Oil - the neck feels soooo smooth!
    • The fret board is rosewood with 24 frets
    • Electronics are EMG J5 pickups with the BQS preamp (volume/blend/high/stacked parametric mid/low)
    • Tuners are hipshot ultralight
    • Bridge is a hipshot A style
    • Side markers are glow-in-the dark

    And bass's namesake, the koi... it's a 13 piece mother of pearl and abalone inlay I hand cut out to swim over the 12th fret. Obviously this is where the bass's name comes from, but the word "koi" has a few meanings besides "carp" - it also translates into "intention" or "purpose", and can mean "the feelings of the ancients".

    IMG_0320.jpgIMG_0329.jpgIMG_0337.jpgIMG_0339.jpgIMG_0341.jpgIMG_0344.jpgIMG_0350.jpgIMG_0351.jpg

    Here's a little video I shot of myself goofing around this afternoon with the bass.

    Finally, I want all of the lurkers and dreamers here to know that YOU CAN DO THIS!

    Thanks!

    Aaron

    • Like 3
  9. 8 hours ago, ScottR said:

    It looks mighty fine too!

    Your shot of fret leveling shows a bunch of metal dust on unprotected fretboard wood. As you probably know by now, that stuff is nearly impossible to completely clean out of pores, and can leave your fretboard looking dirty. It's a good idea to mask off your board before leveling and crowning the frets.

    When my truss rod access is as neat and tidy as yours......which is always my goal, I don't bother making a cover. What with the strings passing over and the glint of the tuning machines, it is pretty much background noise anyway.

    SR

    Thanks! 

    I learned the hard way about metal dust on unprotected wood. I was able to get it out, but it wasn't easy. I will never make that mistake again.

    Maybe no truss rod cover isn't so bad...

  10. So so so close to calling this "done". I got my fancy-pants leveling beam and crowning tools this week so yesterday I went in and leveled the frets. Had to take quite a bit of material off a few of the frets (especially around the inlay, where I was too scared about cracking the inlay to knock'm in properly). I got some 2x magnifying goggles to use for the crowning - I felt like I had a super power. Anyway, after sanding, crowning, and polishing, I brought the nut slots down a little more and dropped the saddles. 

    This is an awesome bass! Plays great, feels great, sounds great. I'm really happy with it. 

    Action shots!

    IMG_0291.jpg

    Here's the worst offender:

    IMG_0292.jpg

    I was hoping to use some of the wood to make a matching truss rod cover, but the strings are pretty close and there isn't much space to fit it - I'd guess it'd need to be about as thick as two credit cards and I worry that it won't be very durable. I need to play around with this.

    And I'm not sure about the logo. Now that I have thought about it, what I was planning for is too thin to work well as a cutout. If I can get a  truss rod cover into the space, I could get it etched onto it. But I'm also thinking about skipping it and letting the inlay be the sole marking on the bass. Here's the logo for reference (it's a play on the double-A from my name and mountains because I like'm). 

    basslogo.png

    So that's where things stand right now. In the meantime, I'm having a blast playing this thing and starting to dream up my next project. Too many ideas...

  11. On March 30, 2016 at 0:25 PM, curtisa said:

    Acoustically or plugged in? Nut should only affect the open string tone. Maybe check the bridge-end for any problems - poorly coupled components that need tightening, saddle breakpoint is pinching or rubbing the string. bridge plate not making solid contact with the body under the B-string

    Bingo! After dreaming up who-knows-what kind of crazy potential problems that could be causing this, the simplest solution prevailed. The b string was in fact not seated right in the bridge. The ball at the end was wedged in the slot on the top of where the string drops in instead of being pulled all the way in. The result was instead of breaking at the saddle, the string just went across it. This is what was causing all of those false harmonics. Literally a 5-second solution. Thanks!

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