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Norris

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Everything posted by Norris

  1. It's subjective and entirely up to you. If YOU think it looks right, then it's right . There are no rules Edited to say: Mock it up, look at it, sleep on it, look at it again - then you'll know
  2. First coat of lacquer on the front & headstock Hopefully I'll get the rest of the neck detail sanded tonight and get some lacquer on it Shiny!
  3. I did offer to chamber it for him to lose a bit of weight, but he thinks that will lose the tone. It's voodoo imho, but the resaw & stick back together might just be a way forward. I'll discuss it with my tame luthier guru
  4. You've ended up with something unique and stylish - nice work & great save that man!
  5. Another option is maybe to resaw the body blank, glue it back together again afterwards and don't tell him
  6. Its going to be painted a solid colour, so maybe I could do the extended tenon and make sure it's sanded flush to the body
  7. Thanks. I tried to talk him onto a nice figured maple top, but he insisted on a solid hunk of mahogany "for the tonez"
  8. Nice one @psikoT If you fancy doing vector art for yourself, have a look at https://inkscape.org/ It's free! I didn't realise that CorelDRAW was still in production. It must be over a decade since I last used that
  9. The satin sheen is covered in tiny wire wool scratches at the moment, but yes it does look quite good like that. It will look even better with a shine that you could swim in though . If I can get a shine half as good as @ScottR manages to then I'll be a happy chap! I spent an hour or two with a Stanley knife blade scraping excess dye from the binding where it managed to sneak under the masking tape. I also "borrowed" the wife's ultra fine 00 water-colour brush to touch in a few bits where I over-masked, and it will look much neater when I've gone round it again with the blade. A tad more wire wool to even out the streaks in the recesses and I think we're good to slap some sanding sealer on it
  10. I'm loving the design and like many others will be watching your build with interest
  11. Hi. For my second build I'll be making a LP Jr DC for my guitarist. He's keen to have a neck pickup, mainly to get the both pickups on sound. However we're both aware of the neck stability issues that can create, and the various modifications that Gibson did over the years to try to overcome them. Obviously moving the neck pickup away from the neck will solve it to a certain extent, but I was wondering what other options are out there. Is there such a thing as a shallower P90 that won't take such a huge chunk out of the neck tenon? Any other innovative solutions you marvellous people have come up with? Cheers, Norris
  12. I've been dyeing the top. I gave it a few coats and then knocked it back with 0000 grade wire wool... ... to help pop the grain when I applied some more And I think this is worth a few photos now that I've taken off the masking tape from the binding... That's going to look pretty marvellous when it has some lacquer on it. There's a little bit more knocking back to do around the recesses - these photos were just after I gave them another couple of coats of dye. I've also got to scrape around the binding a tad just to clean it up. As you can probably see in the photos I've also given the headstock & rear cover plate a couple of coats of dye. Those will also need knocking back and re-dyeing. There's a 3 week break in my evening classes now, but I'm going to try to soldier on and get it lacquered at home
  13. Another option is to scoop it out more to recess the switch
  14. That's a beautifully clean curve in the cutaway and the oil really brings it to life. Lovely work!
  15. I have the T-shirt for that! A vegetable steamer appliance was very useful
  16. For shimming a neck pocket you could try making your own. I made the veneer for my headstock by resawing an offcut of the body top wood, fixing it to a sheet of MDF (the masking tape & CA trick would be good here) and then sanding it down to required thickness. A bit of effort but very achievable if you don't need a large sheet
  17. Thanks. I've tried to show everything, warts & all. If it gives somebody something to think about before making a mistake, provides a tip for how to achieve something, or even inspires someone to start their first build - then it's all been worth it That's been my philosophy throughout - It takes as long as it takes. The next one will be a lot quicker, as it's a much simpler build. Having said that I'll be tackling some stuff I've not done in this build, such as a neck angle & scarf joint (Yes, it's lined up already, much to my wife's chagrin!)
  18. @KnightroExpress did a review of the Triton here: It's on my wish list
  19. I just noticed this thread has over 11.5k views - I'd better get it finished!
  20. I got the tuner screw holes drilled - check. There are only 4 holes left to drill now - the neck pickup mounting plate retaining screws and the strap locks. The top is now ready for dyeing, except I noticed a couple of tiny scratches in the bottom of the teardrop recess for the controls. That shouldn't take long to sort, then I'll give it a very light wipe of dye before checking for any more scratches I used/adapted a few tips that I saw on here. I needed to do a bit of sanding in the forstner bit recesses where the controls will mount. I found a largish drill bit with flat bottom, stuck some masking tape on the bottom and superglued some 400 grit to it, then cut round with a sharp knife. I then repeated it with a strip around to bottom of the shank. The result, a lovely cylindrical sanding stick. It was good for doing a small roundover too. I've got a few real life things coming up, but masking & dyeing of the top should commence soon
  21. 18mm? - you could probably get that split again and get two tops out of it
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