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Racer X

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Everything posted by Racer X

  1. I'd probably apt to go with what's already there. Best that I know, the finish you are shooting for would be a nitro finish, and it would be a shame to get all the way to the end, withy Poly, only to find out it isn't what you thought it would be. Since you already have nitro, and the guitar finish you are copying is nitro, you already have a pretty good basis as to what it's gonna come out like.
  2. Odd. I never had any problems, like that. Only thing I get is a slight hazing effect, at the super glue, but that goes away, once you sand and polish.
  3. airbrush isn't gonna get you where you need to be. They are fine for doing smaller work, but a guitar requires more coverage than an airbrush can provide. Get yourself a decent jam gun, and you should be good to go.
  4. Drop fill with superglue, and accelerate the curing process by also getting a little pump spray bottle of accelerator, and spray it on the drop-filled spot. That way, you can level out, and polish the area, on the spot. I've done guitars like this, that have had more HOLES than clearcoat, and have had great results.
  5. My Chandler Soloist project body is Alder, and Alder should not have to be grain filled.
  6. They shouldn't be all that tough to find. They are the vintage style, and seem pretty readily available.
  7. That's why I asked about the underlayment. I figured something might be gassing off.
  8. Good luck. Doubt you'll find it, there, though.
  9. What exactly is under the metallic paint?
  10. Conductive shielding paint. Here's a link: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...ding_Paint.html
  11. I use Evercoat, a poly filler that's VERY easy to work with and sand, and it doesn't shrink like some lower-grade filler will.
  12. Wouldn't grinding them down make the shorter, thus change where the tremolo sits on the body? could this screw up intonation? Doubtful, since you can adjust each saddle, individually, to compensate for it. I mean, you don't want to get TOO crazy with it, though.
  13. I thought he meant put the shirt OVER the sock, which, to me, didn't make any sense. DEFINITELY need some clarification, on this.
  14. I work with a bandsaw every day, at work, and I often wonder how easy can it possibly be, considering that the blade is much deeper than a scroll saw. I mean, I understand the fragile nature of the scroll saw blades, however, my experience with them has been limited. I DO however know what it's like trying to cut curves on a bandsaw, and THOSE blades aren't entirely flexible. I guess if you have a scrollsaw that's powerful enough, then you might be alright.
  15. No, you're right. I am very interested in how he did this, but it made little sense, to me. I understand he painted the guitar, green, first. I THINK he dabbled the black paint on, with the t-shirt, but what's up with the SOCK? I mean, it DOES look like an interesting finish, in fact, one that I had in mind, and was wondering how to DO it, but I think it would be helpful if he took a few seconds, and elaborated. And I agree that it would look better if there was an edge burst. Either THAT, or a faux binding, with the rest of the guitar in black, maybe. Just my 2 cents.
  16. Where you wanna ask, is here: http://www.jcfonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12 Standard Strat neck pockets are 2-3/16" wide. Jackson neck pockets are 2-1/4" wide, so, as you can see, there is a difference, here. Just follow the thread, and someone, there will be able to guide you. I frequent there, so I'll be looking for ya. Good luck.
  17. For hand sanding, try dowel rods, of different diameters. Just did the horns on my Chandler body like that, a couple weeks ago, and came out, nicely. Sometimes, you can use things, like small cans, too. Wrap the paper around the item, and sand away. I found muself clamping the body between my knees, as I sanded, so I could closely monitor the progress, as well.
  18. Acetone IS a type of alchohol, so you must specify what OTHER type of alchohol you are referring to. Isopropenol?
  19. I recently painted a chrome neck plate, after applying two coats of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter, and the results were great. Found it at Walmart for a few bucks.
  20. Agreed. I used a can of Krylon Crystal Clear on a Squire neck, who's headstock I reshaped (hatethe big headstocks), and it came out rather nice.
  21. Welcome to the wonderful world of poly finishes.
  22. If it is not down to the bare wood, you might not have to DO any sanding. You may be able to just get away with drop-filling the chip with superglue, spray on some supglue acellerator, sand and polish. In the chip, do you still see paint?
  23. Oh, I DEFINITELY agree on THAT. Everyone I've talked to said to stay away from that stuff. Crap in a tube.
  24. +1 Bondo is gaurenteed never to shrinkback/crack. I've used it numerous times with no ill effects (yet!!). Like mentioned, make sure you get the 2 part stuff you can mix yourself. Epoxy also works fine, and many swear by it for paste filling (grain filling, whatever floats your boat). Oh, and yes you can get Bondo AND the 2 part epoxy from home depot. Saying Bondo these days, is like saying Kleenex. You MUST specify. Don't get regular brandname Bondo. Get a better brandname. Perfect example is 3M. You chinze on the filler, and it WILL shrink, over time. 3M won't do that to you. You get what you pay for, with this.
  25. I'm working with Evercoat, right now, on an 80s Chandler body, and it has been great. It's a poly filler, like Bondo, but it is a galzing filler, and it sands down rather easily. If you go the Bondo route, which I recommend, don't cheap out, get the good stuff, like 3M. The cheap stuff shrinks. Check out this link, and you should be convinced: http://www.jcfonline.com/ubbthreads/showfl...0&page=3#636347 If he can fill in an entire neck pickup hole with it, you can fill some big chips.
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