mistermikev

sharp.

Fully intended to be cutting a fretboard today... set up my software to auto tile the fretboard... and it would not do what I want. My plan is to try to cut as many frets on the first pass as possible to keep the majority of fretboard accurate as possibe... so I would cut 23" before moving. unfortunately the software then expects a 23" move. so... what do we do then? well we do it the hard way (yay)! Setup all that tiling via splitting operations manually and making individual cam procedures for each "partial cut". Took me quite a while but ready to go on that now and I realize... I need to cut my inlay stock and have it ready to inlay b4 I cut frets... so need to work on that next. In the meantime... I got my neck stock milled down pretty good, so thought I'd share that. io9jjk

not sayin' I don't ALSO do THAT! lol. nice to see you around komodo!

have a similar fav saying: if you keep your mouth closed folks might suspect your a fool... but if you open it they'll have proof.

not sure what you mean... trying 2 piece it together... perhaps some comedy wood work to glue these ideas together. ok, I'll stop now.

well it's never as bad as it seams! (lil joke there lol).

you mean this join right here? it's hidden pretty well honestly. (did I win?)

I'm glad you caught that! yes, indeed.

well, afa tonewood... it would seem to me to meet the starndards: is pretty, is a hardwood, janka hardness of 1860... perhaps a bit heavy/dense but that wouldn't dissuade me. seems like a fine wood to use. oh, and it's pretty!

"I love it when a plan comes together".

looks rather exotic to me (jarrah). enjoy seeing the work to build the bridge.

nice job.

thank you!!

"Perfect is the enemy of the great" is the theme for the weekend. So given that this bass has a very long fretboard/neck... and I will be cutting both in two stages... important to get my materials planed as flat as possible. 110 degrees this weekend so 20 mins in the garage and I'm drained and drenched. adjusted/leveled my planed rigorously, and built a new feed sled. so i took some 3/4 purpleheart, sapele, and oak and some 3" mahog... resawed and planed them down as stock for 1) a fretboard for my prototype in oak, 2) multilam of sapele/oak/qtr-sawn mahog for my prototype, and a fretboard blank in purpleheart for my final build. havent decided yet... but thinking just a couple of strips of oak lam on the outside of the sapele and between the mahog here: my oak has a little tension in it... could change my mind and add another oak strip in and put some lam between it... thoughts? the sapele... just lovely stuff imo. note to self use more of this as it smells just wonderful! left oak fretboard, right on bottom is the purple heart fretboard. and the evidence: man glitter everywhere...

thank you, really appreciate it!!

thank you very much!!

thank you... really enjoyed: "Two troubadours travelled the terrain with twin Twangmaster Tele's while telling tales of triumphant times in Tacoma's taco house". greatest hits album.

thank you biz!

thank you Mike! Very much appreciate it and all the guidance!

Happy to help.

I'm guessing you started from the ledge side... you could start from the other side to prevent it... but honestly given that it's on the top of the guitar... a little sanding and fine. I'm no bandsaw expert but when you are trying to make a straight cut generally a wider bade is the ticket... and lots of tension. I don't think a fine blade would be best because it's going to cut slower and you will be more likely to pull things out of wack. I'd go for a coarse cut and plan on some sanding... but ymmv.

hadn't realized you have such a nice bandsaw... might put mine to work more if it was as nice as that. it looks like it's going to need sanding, but pretty minimal. nice work.

well, only you know what tools you have and what is best with it right in front of you. if it were me I'd take the strings off, flatten the neck perfectly, level the frets, and re-crown them. it's just not that much more work and the only way I know to guarantee they will be perfect. ymmv.

imo... leveling a few frets is almost never worth it. there are some cases where it would be... but that is typically if the frets that are problematic are really high up the neck. if the problem frets are lower than most likely as you level them you just move the problem a couple of frets higher... then chase the problem all the way up the neck. so if there is no relief... just make sure you are going the right way with the truss (check relief, turn truss, check relief again) and eventually you should get there. you should be adding relief which in most cases would mean loosening the truss rod. with a dual action... it could be that it was adjusted so much that adjusting back... you eventually hit the 'middle point' on the truss where adjustment just doesn't do anything until the threaded block starts to pull the truss back in the other direction. 1mm would be incredibly low action.

noice... so can we hear a recording?