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Nicco

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Nicco last won the day on September 29 2020

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  1. Worth noting all my dimensions are in millimetres.
  2. Hey gents, yep, definitely taking on board the suggestion around not taking the word of the documentation. I will measure that for sure. As far as making sure I understand how this all works though, I've attached a drawing of how it should all fit together. Does this look right? Are the values I'm using for underside of string height at the 1st and 12th fret right?
  3. I managed to get the body top glued on over the weekend, plus flush routed the edges then out the binding channel in. I toyed around with using a beautiful looking piece of 12mm Marri (a Western Australian hard wood) as the top in a last minute substitute with the Tassie Oak, but in the end decided against it because of the weigh... the 12mm top weighed more than the oak and blackwood together for the complete body! I'll save it for another time when I have the tools to turn it into a 3mm veneer top! Ha ha. Photo attached just for the hell of it. Onto needing a little advice though
  4. So progress has been ticking away slowly, but I'm really happy with how it's going. Both the control cavity covers are now shaped. I've left them as a tight fit for now so I could press them into place and sand them flush with the rest of the back of the body without them moving around on me. I also had a feeling I wanted to do an inlay in the body to match the fret board inlay. After much laying out of pieces, procrastination and mulling over, I decided to do it. Very glad I did, I'm really happy with how it looks. I also played around a little with some Tru Oil on the back o
  5. Thanks AD! And yep, I'm very happy with the bridge so far. I had the in laws visiting this weekend, so that was a good excuse to go and steal some shed time! Made some really good progress. I fixed up the control cavity (still made a little mistake, but much less bad than before and can cover it up with the cavity cover. Chalk that one up as a learning experience I've also put the chamfer on the under side of the body, put in a flat on the inside of the control cavity that will be where the jack plug goes through to the outside. Then got started on the control cavity cover.
  6. Yeah, it's a great looking bridge, it's a Schaller Signum. Cost me more than I wanted to spend, but it just looked so good! Ha ha. I also figured that if I was going to the trouble of building the whole guitar, I might as well make it the best I could. The guitar I made back in 2015 had a Floyd Rose on it, but in reality I don't think I've ever actually used it in anger, so I wanted to try hard tail this time.
  7. So I managed a little more time lately. A little bit if two steps forward and one step back though. Ha ha. So for the router tear out; that's now fixed. I've reshaped the end a little and actually reckon it fits the overall shape better now. Key is going to be not tearing out the top when I get to the same spot! I also spent a bit of time marking out the positions of the control cavity, the pickup selector switch cavity and the channels to take the wiring. There was a bit of disappointment around the control cavity though. ☹ I ended up sketching it out in situ on the body, the
  8. Hey Curtis, Yeah, I'll have a play with some of those ideas, thanks. I think the flipping it over would be a good one around those trouble spots. I'd already tried to take off as much as I could, but I've only got a jigsaw, so there were a couple of close calls where the bottom of the blade got a little wayward. Ha ha. Rasping it down though is another good idea. I'll try that on the top. Thanks!
  9. It's been a few weeks since I've been able to get a crack at the guitar again. Managed to sneak in an hour today, so got the tassie blackwood lower part of the body outside rout finished up. It came out mostly really well, very happy with the shape, but unfortunately got done pretty bad tear out at the top of the neck pocket. I've got more than enough meat in there to reshape it to suit, but still a pain. In the photos below, i left a bit of meat on it when I did the second pass, which is why there's a weird ledge there. Does anyone have tips on how to avoid tear out in the first p
  10. Yeah, that sounds like a good way to tackle it. I was also thinking about using a couple of dowels as well. Potentially could even leave them permanently between the top and bottom pieces so long as they don't poke through the surface. I got a little more time in the shed today, even though next job on the list was sanding the neck I couldn't resist jumping forwards a little and rough cutting the body and cap. Then I couldn't resist putting some turps on the blackwood and doing a mockup with the bridge and pick ups. Ha ha. I did a very rough layout of where the carve w
  11. Of course. That's a great idea. Thanks for that!
  12. Thanks guys for the kind words again, especially coming from guys who make such amazing long instruments. I'm definitely enjoying working through this and try to push myself a bit on the design. As for the carve top, Bizman, it's the order of operations that's got me a bit flummoxed. I want to do binding on the front which I was planning on using a router and template bit for, so I need to cut the channels before I do the carve but after the top is glued to the back of the body. The only two ways I can think of to get the exposed edge of the top thinned out like you've said a
  13. Oh and it's worth noting, I drew the f hole in there, but I'm planning on doing a carve top... i think trying to go hollow body and carve top is a bridge too far for me at the moment
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