Jump to content
Entry in the May 2024 Guitar of the Month contest is now open ×

mistermikev

GOTM Winner
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,761

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    133

 Content Type 

Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. mistermikev
    makes perfect sense. It'd be nice to cut both sides at once and mirror any chatter but that could get dangerous pretty quick. Think I'm going to try some version of this on my next blank glue up. was thinking... it'd be really cool if I could get it going with the cnc and get comfy with it. then instead of doing a straight cut... follow the grain pattern. do a mirrored cut on the other side... hopefully following a grain line as well. then joining them should disappear pretty easily. Something to think about anyway!
  2. mistermikev
    thank you sir and thanks for the info. ever since I saw that one bass... been wanting to use that stuff!!. have been half debating whether I should try to do a light pink sandback on the top before finishing... to expose the flame a bit... but don't want to ruin the 'white' look of the wood either. just have to see how it strikes me. thanks again for the reply.
  3. mistermikev
    guys like him, colter wall, and tyler childers offer a lot of hope for the future of music. not that "all that new music is crap" is my thing... but just love the idea of the new take on more traditional sounds. she's looking nice and smooth there. the hair almost looks like it's moving. lovely work as always.
  4. mistermikev
    bizman has you pretty well covered there... but a little trick that I recently learned that you might find useful in case you opt to trace your actual schecter...solder actually works better than a contour gauge for capturing the neck profile... provided you don't move it. simply form it to the neck at the 1st and the 12th... then trace onto paper. voilla. also... you'll learn a lot building your own templates. Plus you'll have the option to change things you may not like. highly recommended.
  5. mistermikev
    immediately reminded me of this pine table from the 1940s at my family cabin. That was not light either. much higher quality pine than you typically see and quite a bit harder - table still in good condition last I saw it in the 2005ish. Had a very 'shiny' quality to the actual wood... which I don't think I've ever seen before on pine other than that table. so, that gets my vote
  6. mistermikev
    so... feel like I didn't accomplish a whole lot this weekend... but I did spend a lot of time designing necks, jigs, finishing my body plan... and I glued up two blanks. you know... it's harder than it looks! Plenty of times I had the perfect cut... but the wrong grain... or visa versa. I kept getting a very slight (about the width of a human hair) pocket in the middle - which is odd and could spell danger. I wonder if my fence has a slight bulge there. Will have to inspect it a bit and perhaps clamp on some wood fence on the outside to see if I can improve it. anywho... ho hum... body blanks. one turned out pretty decent, one turned out 'ok'. both have a rock solid joint... just not spectacular on the grain match. Good news is there is plenty to learn yet!
  7. mistermikev
    lotta nice on that. good job.
  8. mistermikev
    yes, congrats. well earned.
  9. mistermikev
    fantastic resource. I'm going to have to place an order with them. thank you so much for sharing! hey also - happy new year! good things your way in the new year - I hope you wife is doing good and hope you are surviving taking care of her!!
  10. mistermikev
    if I may... where do you source a 1/4" x 4" end mill?
  11. mistermikev
    i know master po - you are full of good ideas!
  12. mistermikev
    that is a very interesting idea. lot of potential from that one trick.
  13. mistermikev
    that is a very interesting idea. I think it would be a little more work so might not use it for this... but I could see some very cool applications for combining maple with wenge or other colored binding. Def putting that in my trick bag for later - thank you for mentioning!!
  14. mistermikev
    hehe, well in carls defense I think he is evening out the tension... just not where he thinks it is. the even tension strings.... the concept doesn't seem possible.... but what do I know! I'm in... I'll try it!!
  15. mistermikev
    well... balanced tension strings... have not heard of them. Will have to try that. again, I'm not certain that it is anything to do with the strings themselves... you and other folks have quite convinced me of that... given that I've observed a difference... and tested it by trying to straighten the claw and consistently had less stability... there must be 'some' explanation. anywho, I very much appreciate the reply! also, happy new year!
  16. mistermikev
    well thank you sir... borne out of lazyness... can't see taping off the binding and f holes... hope it doesn't come to that!
  17. mistermikev
    well thank you for saying so!! technically this one is not going to change!! I'm going to use osmo polyx raw... which in theory is going to keep it almost natural and actually lighten it if anything... but I have another 8' or so of this maple so... I'm sure I'll do one with stain sooner or later!!
  18. mistermikev
    total necro bump here -as the kids say... but was thinking about this as the topic came up on the axe fx forum. so... it would seem like this "shouldn't" work... yet for me and lots of other folks... it does at least 'seem' to work and I wonder why? Was thinking that perhaps the tightening of one spring allows that spring to act as a "coarse adjust" of tension while the other spring acts as a "fine adjust"? IOW perhaps it's just making it easier to zero in on the 'right' amount of tension? have had success with it on a 6 screw, a 2 post, and even a fulcrum style tremolo. I dunno... just a thought.
  19. mistermikev
    oh, i wasn't saying your method... more the method of putting abalone dust/chunks in and then epoxy. yeah, abalone/mop is surprisingly delicate stuff.
  20. mistermikev
    well... technically 2mm does not fit inside 2mm. it likely fits inside 2.05mm! haha! I had considered the abalone chunks as well. I don't get what you are saying with the issue there? my main concern with the method is you don't really get the benfit of a nice looking solid layer of abalone.
  21. mistermikev
    well, looks nice. a lot to potentially go wrong drilling twice on the face of the fretboard, and potentially into brass. on a 6mm dot facing front you are def going to see it more. getting that to work 10 times in a row seems like a lot of risk but in a pinch it would solve the problem. what I'd really like to find is liquid abalone! one thing I've considered: i have some faux abalone binding... could try taking short lengths of brass tube and pounding it into that. maybe sharpen the edge of the brass and put it in the drill press and press it. then chop off the end. lot of work tho. might have to do a little experimentation with a few methods. thanks for the input.
  22. mistermikev
    right on. for me... I could cut the abalone dots myself with cnc and get a pretty close match on diameter. but obviously taking epoxy and filling a brass tube with it, then chopping the tube into slices would give a tighter fit. If I can find a brass tube with the right inside diameter that might be best... just don't want a gap inside it because getting the hole centered could result in results I wouldn't like. can be done... but can I do it 10 times without a mistake? prob not!! thanks for the reply!
  23. mistermikev
    well one of the things I thought it would buy me... is that usually when I cut with my router it takes a few tries to get a good join. however I typically draw a line of where I want the grain to be cut for a good match. so I rarely get exactly what I wanted after I cut a few times. with the cnc, in theory it should be good first time thru... so it might actually give me a better result. or at least a more predictable result. if/when/someday I will upgrade my spindle to one that accepts a half inch bit... that would def make it a sure thing. bigger longer bit. anyway... something to think about! thanks again for your input!
  24. mistermikev
    thank you, thank you sir!!
  25. mistermikev
    well jokes on you jack... I'm thinking I'm going to stain the top, tape off the f holes, and follow the f holes with a small ogee bit. sm with the body 'faux' binding... that is unless I decide that a dumb idea and do something else. haha!! headstock inlay is going to be abalone for the mv logo and then the gold transfer paper like I did on the les flaus. also planning brass tube inlays... I'd love to do abalone inside brass rings... but I'm not certain that won't end up being a pain. might just do epoxy and something blue inside brass tube.... still kind of working that out. thank you very much for the reply sir!!!!!!
×
×
  • Create New...