mistermikev

39 minutes ago, MiKro said:

I agree needs to extend the pocket out if using bolt on. Or use six screws like some basses now

right on - 6 screw is a good idea.  even just using four but extending the neck into the humbucker pocket would help a lot. 

28 minutes ago, MiKro said:

@mistermikev

It is a set neck not bolt on.

MK

i know mikro... but the gentleman above - who started this thread... is interested in doing a symmetrical strat, and based on bizman's drawings... looks like he intended a bolt on.

On 3/13/2021 at 8:57 AM, MiKro said:

Like This one?

mk

i concur - lovely stuff.  that a gotm just waiting there.

should be noted that there is not a lot of real estate to hold that neck in... and it might not be obvious to onlookers that your neck extends through the neck pickup rout... which makes it a solid pocket... I'm not sure I'd trust this on a bolt on neck that ends right at the end of the neck.  perhaps I'm wrong, but it would seem that using screws... and nothing to secure it 'side to side' would be ripe for stability issues.  I'd at least use inserts/machine screws if I was going to do that - to try and get a tighter grip on that neck.  just one ahole's o

On 3/13/2021 at 3:25 AM, scorpionscar said:

All of you are right, I've solved the design with an angle, The anatomy of this style of guitar requiere it, and the khaler, although is not taller in excess, can be adjusted a lot, so I decided to angle the neck. As you say Prostheta, I have the option of recess the bridge, or raise the neck, this is one of the advantages of this type of construction (set neck). About the nut, not very clear what to do...

I`m going for a laminated neck for stability, with a double action truss rod. Do you think is necessary reinforcements of carbon fiber? What profile measuremts should I use in the first and 12th fret?

Scorpionscar

not that you are asking for my input here... but I'd simply pick a profile that I liked and try to use that.  you can find all sorts of pictures of profiles from popular guitars on the web from the wizard II neck to the evh/wolfgang to vintage 'baseball bat'.  I know certain one's resonate with me so I tend to go that route. 

afa nut... if you DO go locking nut the width of said nut is going to pretty much be dictated by the hardware.  if not, then sky's the limit.  as curtisa wisely pointed out - use something you know and like or use something that is used on the guitar that is similar to the one you are making. 

interesting build.  as mentioned... neck angle - sort of determined by the bridge... you COULD raise the neck out of the body... you COULD countersink the tremolo... you could do a combo of neck raise and neck angle.  I don't think there's really any way to answer this other than laying out your stuff to scale in a drawing of some sort.  

Looks like it's pretty hard to find spec drawing of saddle height for kahlers - but I know they have a pretty extreme amount of adjustment and they sit pretty low profile.  As such... I suspect you wouldn't necc need any neck angle at all. 

I literally just bought a kahler 7300 (have always wanted to try one!) and am happy to give you measurements if that will help... but I don't know if they'll match your model.  They should be the sm... but wouldn't bet your guitar on it!!

afa lock nut... you COULD do one without... but any dive bombing is going to take it out of tune.  Even with locking tuners my experience has been that a trem can stay in tuner for "sleepwalk" style tremolo use... but getting aggressive it's not going to stay in like a floyd unless it's locked.  I'd use a lock nut and not the kahler "behind-the-nut" type.  Was thinking I'll probably buy a floyd for mine... the kahler style is notorious for slippage.  

hope something was useful there.

congratulations!!

33 minutes ago, killemall8 said:

i do both. Check before stringing up, then after.

wow, stumped.

1 minute ago, killemall8 said:

I always set up with a notched straight edge. I can get it perfectly straight with no gaps anywhere, using the straight edge. Then i ad just a sliver of relief in.

I also did carbon fiber on 2 of the necks, same result.

so... when you used the straight edge... strings were on?

On 3/6/2021 at 4:59 PM, killemall8 said:

So just an update.
Ive since put together 4 guitars, and they all still do it as well. Same identical problem.
The low strings seem to be even worse. A simple power chord on any of the low strings dont even ring out.

Im done for.

man... what a frustrating mess.  all one can do is keep trying things.  perhaps under tension you should take a notched straight edge and see what's happening with the curvature?  maybe it has something to do with neck profile - have you tried some thicker profiles at all?  just spitballing.  u r a great guitar maker... you just have to get out of this pit.  think of how good you'll feel when you conquer.  I feel like you just need to do something to push yourself in a different direction... maybe build a bass or do an extended scale baritone or fretless?  maybe add carbon fibre... just anything to jump out of the rut you are in.  most importantly... chin up. 

16 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

@ScottR, if you mean adding the dye into the lacquer, that's unfortunately not an option for this build. The workshop has no spray booth, only a space they use for finishing. This one being an experimental low budget build in many ways will get a rattlecan clearcoat (Lidl) on the body and headstock, the neck will be oiled with what's left of the Crimson Guitar Finishing Oils.

could get one of those throw away preval sprayers.  only about $15 here in the us so i would guess in your country... one lamb and a potatoe?

14 hours ago, curtisa said:

Pot in down position, bottom lug connected to centre lug:

Pot in up position, centre and bottom lugs disconnected:

To the best of my knowledge those push-pull pots have never operated differently.

for the record... wasn't doubting you... just thought I had encountered one.  perhaps the cts version?  but I think those actually do work the sm.  perhaps the push/push version... I think I can concede I got it backwards but I do like @Bizman62 s explanation!

I could swear that I've encountered switches that work opposite of that... but perhaps I'm just getting old.

is a nice idea above... one I have not seen.  switch between split and tone pot.  

also... most push pulls I've encountered have the top lug engaged when down if I'm not mistaken... but then I believe I have encountered them both ways so... might want to test that with a multimeter before commiting!!

this is something you'll run into a lot building guitars... so my suggestion is to start with a strat template and simply open it in paint or other graphical editor... and add a humbucker on top of the bridge pickup.  

1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Thanks, Mike

I only submitted it mid last week and hadn't had a reply - it was a forum member ahead of my time zone who spotted it before me from the same notification 

a nice surprise!!

i get the weekly email (l0ve to see more guitar porn) and saw you in there, meant to stop in and say congrats... so... here it is... CONGRATS!!

you could get similar functionality by wiring the coils in parallel... ie white/green/ground to ground... and then wire up black to one side, and red to other side of the 3 way, and the middle lug on three way "to hot controls".  you'd get coil A vs BOTH COILS vs Coil B... just this would be in parallel vs series which would give a slightly less aggressive sound (think more "stratier").  hope that helps.

well no expert... but I would think this is NOT the trem for considering whether you like it or not... as it has to be screwed to the body... and there is no reversing that w/o refinish.  as I understand... the screws for trem mount - go through that washer there and thru the trem into the body.  the spring then sits on top of that washer and under the receiver in the trem arm. 

afa tom bridge - I believe they (dussen) a tele bridge that mounts on std tele holes.

afa neck, not a big fan of the shim idea... but it will work.  if it were me... I'd be much more inclined to glue a piece to the bottom of the neck, use hide glue, use my planer sled to cut it at the proper angle.  best of both worlds... can always remove it later with some heat/steam... but will be secured to the neck.

not normally a big fan of the burnt look but gotta say it won me over on this one.  lovely.

32 minutes ago, MiKro said:

Yep, and now I am finding they just crimped some of the connectors on over the insulation as far as the cable goes. what a fucking mess.

Now I must check continuity on every one of those.

MK

note to self - avoid jamma board!!

17 minutes ago, MiKro said:

Yep I have seen that one. Some of it is correct others not?

MK

right on... i spose all you can do is start from one end and work to the other.

sorry to hear of wiring complications... never fun.  48wires sounds like a pita w/o an accurate diagram.  I would think - given that's such a popular item... someone on a forum somewhere has a corrected layout file.  idk if there's anything useful here but it was an interesting read anyway! https://www.instructables.com/install-a-JAMMA-harness-in-an-arcade-cabinet/

really looks lovely.  with all the electronics and controls going on... pretty clean.  nice work.  leds - takes it over the top.  I bet it is super versatile.  lots of gotm potential there.  I do hope you'll do a vid?  would love to hear it.

idk guys... maybe you SHOULD dunk the whole pickup... then you can call it an antiquity!  

have often thought about etching pickup covers.  I've never done the electrolytic method but have etched about a zillion pcb boards and lots and lots of aluminum pedal enclosures with both Ammonium persulfate and ferric chloride.  Idk if electrolytic generates any heat but ferric sure does and that would def melt the wax potting on a pickup.  

sounds like you are on to taking the cover off anyway... good on ya.  would love to see pics of the process.  

what I know about pnp blue/ferric/persulfate etc is that it take a lot of trial and error to get a fine detail design to come out using etchant.  always end up with micro bubbles in the overlay and have to spend a lot of time patching with an etch pen.  even if you get the thing perfect... if it gets heated pieces can flake off and create ugly spots.  PITA but it can be done.

with all that in mind... if I ever get there - def going to get a laser for etching that sort of thing!!

pretty sure I've actually seen someone do a bolt-on on this type of prs where they had the neck extend under the pickup, but had bolts going into it on the back side.  you could extend the pocket... and if you sculpted it right you could likely even get it to be as comfy.  ie using ferrules and screws as opposed to a neck plate.  there's not really a lot of wood there to begin with so i would think you'd need to go out approx 1.25-1.5 inches but sure... why not.  

I think you COULD use the current neck pocket... but I wouldn't.  It would likely hold as long is it didn't get dropped but if it got dropped it'd be all over.  scale length... if you are mounting some neck you bought on this... I'd think real hard about that.  prs should be with a 25" scale not 25.5 so... bridge position is going to shift if you try to put the wrong one on and even with the right neck scale... it has to be positioned to give you the full scale in the place you want it.  if no bridge is present... you could get away with a lot but note that the curves are designed to sit on your leg while you play and too much adjustment could compromise the ergonomics.