Lex Luthier

It's going in the neck in the neck joint adjustable position. Maybe I'd need to shave off a bit under the end of the fingerboard.

I just got the truss rod for a bass I'm making yesterday from StewMac, along with a few other things. I was looking at the truss rod and was thinking it could be mounted upside-down in the neck, so basically the slot for the adjusting nut wouldn't have to be very deep. Could this be done? I honestly don't see a problem, especially with the way the rod is designed, it would just make the adjustments backwards is all. Feedback please, thanx.

HOLY ****!!!!!!!!!!

What exactly is this? Is this guy on our side? Post in Guest Book

Obviously the building process is different. You have to thickness your soundboard back and sides correctly, brace the soundboard and back, bend the sides and attach them to the neck and tail block, glue in the kerfed lining in the side/block assembly, then you'll need some way of trimming the kerfed lining and sides to match the radiused profile of the back and soundboard, then attach the back and soundboard. The neck is quite similar to an electric guitars' neck, but fitting it isn't. You gotta have the right amount of neck angle for your bridge. Then figure if you want to attach your neck now, or finish the body and neck separately, like if you want a gloss finish on the body and satin for a nice feel on the neck. Then trim away the finish on the soundboard so you can attach the bridge...and binding the body/neck is thrown in there somewhere. My very first guitar was an acoustic from scratch, I've built ukuleles and a flat-top mandolin and I also worked at Northwood guitars for five months, so I've learned alot about acoustic guitar construction. I definatly recommend a kit, the STEWMAC KIT in particular, it comes with a video too. The StewMac kit is designed for beginners requiring minimal tools. You can actually view the instructions online on the StewMac website, so you could get an idea of what it'll be like. There different tools in acoustic guitar building, too. Radius dishes for bracing, radius dishes for forming the profile on the sides/blocks assembly, bending iron, go-bar decks for brace gluing and attaching to back and soundboard to the side assembly...though the StewMac kit is designed to require minimal tools.

I tried that once, just didn't work very well. I've also tried flipping my bench top beltsander on it's side, that worked good, but was a bitch to setup that way. I also use body templates and a flush trim router bit to cut out most of the bodies which eliminates most of that sanding.

That's what I used for the body of my last bass, and the one I'm making right now. Good luck, and have fun.

I've done a little more work. MWCGuitars

I'd use super glue fpr a brass nut.

I think toaster cables kick ass...yes you can say ass.

HERE

What parts are confusing? I wrote it so I'll do my best to help out.

I have used super glue, but it's so runny, I prefer just titebond now. The nut needs to be fixed into place, but needs to be easily removeable.

THIS is something I wrote up on another forum when someone asked, and then I copied it onto my website because I thought it to be fairly good info on the procedure on installing a nut.

I have re-arranged the layout of my shop in anticipation of some new machinery I will by for my birthday. Here's how it looked before: Sander and drillpress on workbench. Lathe and tool cabinet, which I actually didn't move at all. Here is it so far: I have moved my new floor model drillpress into the corner. I have cut down the size of the workbench, moved the sander and vise, and put my tool box on it. I also sorted a bunch of the tools that were in the tool box onto the rack, and hung my sanders. This space is where THIS and THIS will go. Here is the floor plan I drew up.

Merry Christmas dude. Yeah, I'm sorta begining to do work on my car, with alota help from my dad (has his heavy duty mechanics license and stuff). When I first got my car, I took it in for a $40CDN oil and lube thing at a local place, and walked out having spent well over $300CDN getting a bunch of **** done, some of which I probably didn't need. I vowed NEVER to be SUCKERED again by auto shops, so I want to start to do my own oil changes and stuff like that. Last month I replaced the battery in my car, and me and my dad saved myself $80 and changed out the alternator belt. I did, however, go to a shop to get brand new all season tires, but I don't have one of those things to install a tire on the wheel, and I have aluminum rims on my car.

Anybody dealt with these guys for parts? How are they, ie, service, parts, etc. Custom Shop Parts

Just oil.

The customer doesn't seem to have a problem with it.

JVC micro stereo system Dremel tool with some bits Wrench set 205 ratchet and socket set Tool box Torque wrench Sweater New Slippers EDIT: Forgot some stuff: Some underwear & socks $50 Won $10 on lotto tickets New mouse with scroller Gel pad mouse pad New computer chair (My ass wore out the last one)

Trueing edges of body halves, trueing fingerboard gluing surfaces of neck blanks, radiusing fingerboards, headstock thicknessing, neckshaping, roughing out arch-tops (if I ever do another one).

...in less then a month. I'm thinking about getting THIS as a present to myself. The price is $778CDN, which ain't bad, but I can buy tools from House Of Tools through my work and get good deals on them. I don't know what kind of a discount I would get, I was told at least 10%, but I'll also withdraw my holiday pay to help pay for it.

I voted OTHER. I LOVE my 4X36 bench top belt sander. I shape necks on it.

Thankyou to the people who voted for me. One question: What if there is a tie? Has that ever happened before?

How long have you guys been building guitars? I built my first guitar, an acoustic from scratch, when I was still in elementary school 7 years ago. How 'bout you?