Bizman62

A thin blade is ideal for curves, a wide for cutting straight. That said, the workshop saw only has a 10 mm blade or something like that and it can cut full width/length veneers of a fretboard blank! So it's also much about adjusting and the quality of the blade.

I've always used method#3 with laminated necks/headstocks, both with neck-thrus and bolt-on/set necks: I simply cut the excess off. The laminated headstock angle is most likely the strongest construction of the three.

There's a couple of issues with too much glue, none of which is critical. First, you'll have to use more clamping power to squeeze the excess glue out, which leads to second, there's a lot of squeeze-out to clean. And third, a pool of glue makes the wood strips surf on the waves rather than stay aligned.

Improvisation is important both in your playing and building. Just recently I saw a video about woodworking without clamps! There seems to be a ton of them if you search, I just stumbled upon one. Anyhow, rails, ropes, wedges and bolts can be your best friends. Like, how about this type of "tool" to keep your neck steady while working on the headstock?:

Actually that might be for the better! Based on what can be seen from that angle it looks like the entire headstock could be pulled apart right past the nut so you can clean all glue residues and such easily. Splintered wood would be much more difficult to rejoin. Speaking about jigs, a simple one is to deattach the tuners and use the tuner holes to attach the headstock to a piece of wood. A correct angle would further improve the jig. That would help clamping or binding the joint a lot. And yes, I said binding in purpose. Sometimes a length of bungee cord is much more versatile than clumsy clamps.

The rule of thumb with bent wood is, if you can pinch the joint shut between your thumb and forefinger, you can glue it. If not, it will cause issues. Also, if the piece of wood is bent because it has been laying on a flat surface without any airflow from underneath, turning it upside down on that same surface may slowly bend it back.

Wow, I've never seen a finger jointed headstock before! It looks like the entire joint has failed, which makes me wonder what type of glue they've used. Definitely not Titebond original, that's for sure! I've seen urethane glue snap because of shock, entire fingerboards just popped off, so that might be your issue as well. Opening the entire joint, cleaning and regluing might be the only option for longevity. Clamping that joint requires some creativity. I'd put clamps both on the neck and the headstock, outside the joint, and then use two more clamps to pull them together. And at least one right over the joint to shut the crack. For added stability I might even route a four inch (10 cm) channel across the crack and add a solid skunk stripe or two.

The metal used is softer than steel so drilling a couple of holes and tapping it shouldn't be too difficult. That said, the only issue I've had with a loose bridge was with a cheap one with long holes and adjusting grub-screws at either end of the holes. The holes are long enough to fit almost two posts so plenty of adjusment range past the individual bridge pieces. I can't understand why... Anyhow, due to poor machining one of the screws fell off and got lost and because of that the intonation changed when the bridge moved. If you put just one single round of copper tape on the pole, will the bridge still fit? If not, I'd call that tight enough. One reason for loose fitting is that most bridges are cast instead of machined out of a single block. The chrome plating process can add to the inaccuracy.

Gotoh is known for their reasonably priced quality hardware so you might be better off asking them directly. Some play in the holes might be planned just to get the bridge on the posts as they sometimes can be a bit off or slanted. You really can't tell until you've seated the posts... The Gotoh site says R300 in the drawing which I understand means millimetres. 300 mm is appr. 12" so either you've got a wrong product or your measuring is off.

I'm using good old Windows Paint. Quick and dirty. For designing I use a pencil. That's hardware, I suppose...

Congrats!

The right place is where the body ends and the neck starts. Speaking about the Fendery style, you aren't limited to a thick fretboard. In fact, Fender fretboards are quite thin compared to many others. That can be considered a variation of the neck break angle as well, in this case the angle would be zero. Here's illustrating what I mean, hopefully making sense:

Option #2 would give you the most space for strumming. On a neck through the neck break angle is pretty straightforward to cut. You can draw it directly on the side of the neck blank! Like so: you draw your string line which is about 2 mm above the fretboard. You'll have to imagine that as it's in the air... you sum the thickness of the frets, the fretboard and the clearance between the strings and frets and draw another line which will be along the blank you measure the height of your bridge you draw a line from the neck break to the bottom of the bridge

She may be right, she may be wrong. Sometimes it's the tiniest little change that either makes a decent looking guitar or something that makes you oooh and aaah.

There might, just might be the profile folder of the previous version as well. They don't easily get deleted unless you really want to.

Whoops... Well, actually I've used the masks to protect my customers from getting Covid from me when I visit their homes to fix their computers. At one point there was some talk about requiring FFP2 instead of the surgical looking masks so I placed an order for those.

A five piece laminate is plenty strong for a six string guitar. I've made a few laminated neck-thru guitars - from three wide pieces to 9 piece ones with 0.55 mm veneers between thicker ones. The glue acts as a stiffener as it doesn't flex up and down. A truss rod for fine tuning the release is recommended, I guess you've already planned to use one.

Not from me. As long as you like it all is good. The shape of the body is only about looks and ergonomics so you're free to build it to whatever shape you like. The bigger the heavier etc, then again a too skinny one can be difficult to hold especially on your knee. Much the same with the headstock. Straight string pull can help tuning and that's what you've already planned there.

So, wearing a mask to protect yourself is a good thing, right? I just read the product description on the bag of KN95 masks, "Professional protection". Either my English is failing on me, or these really aren't too safe to use. This is how it reads, my comments added in italic:

Welcome to the addiction! You've got a good start, full size drawing can be really helpful in finding any weak spots. That said, your plan is a neck-thru, isn't it? Otherwise there would not be too much support for the neck... I also see that you're not going for the fanned frets which is good for a first build. Facets on the body are nice, they aren't too difficult to make and they sure add character to the looks. And they can improve the ergonomics as well.

You may be able to find them. In the Firefox profile there's usually several bookmark backups so reverting to one should do the trick. The easiest way to check that is to go to the Bookmark panel (Ctrl+Shift+O within Firefox) and use the Import/Backup tool: https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/restore-bookmarks-from-backup-or-move-them If that doesn't work, then your update most likely has created a new profile (32 to 64 bit version?) in which case the old one should still be available in the same folder with the new. %APPDATA%\Mozilla\Firefox\Profiles\ is the location (or see https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/profiles-where-firefox-stores-user-data ) and 'bookmarkbackups' is the first folder there. You can copy and paste that from the old profile to the new one.

That's something I'm not too familiar with. As said, it's a mutation that doesn't inherit. The trees don't grow straight up like normal birch trees so it's possible that a mutated plant doesn't stand the normal stress which causes them grow crooked and also causes the anomalies in the grain. It's not a sickness caused by some third party like virus, bacteria or worm. Nor has it anything to do with the place. It's not a sickness, it's a handicap. You could compare that with people: Some just are born special from 'normal' parents. I've also heard that flames (tiger stripes and such) in wood are caused by stress, According to that theory the sheer weight of the trunk makes the lowest parts crimp like the bellows of an accordeon and when the tree continues growing the figure stabilizes. I've seen similar striping in branches that have been bent because of snow. In those branches the stripes are only on the bottom side where the wood has crimped. That also tells that you can make figured wood by yourself if you force a tree out of its normal growing direction. I've seen a pine tied into a knot while it was growing. It took at least one summer to tie the knot but when I saw the tree after a decade the knot was tight and looked 'natural'. The tree hadn't grown too much after the knot was tied, though, it was only about six feet high and for what I was told it was about four or five feet tall before the tying. -Just recently I read the book "The Sixteen Trees of the Somme' by Lars Mytting (highly recommended!). In the book there was a small forest of birch where a joiner had fastened steel bands around the trunks in order to create some special flaming. Mytting knows something about wood, he also has written a book about firewood.

Just for clarification I'm not saying it's birch. It just looks similar to the stressed carelian birch so there may be something in common in the reason for figuration.

Funny, the word 'masur' can't be found in online Eng-Fin dictionaries, but it was in Meänkieli (ancient Finnish used in isolated parts of Scandinavian Lapland)- Finnish dictionary, meaning the same!

Birch is pretty hard, much like soft maple. In fact, birch has been called poor man's maple since it looks and behaves so similarly! The carelian birch is hard and stiff, the grain goes all directions so it won't split. You can't get seeds from one for cultivating, the seeds produce normal birch. The only way to grow them is cloning. Back in the late sixties my parents bought a riverside field with a tiny cabin. They then bought 90 birch plants to fill the open field with. It so happened that they had mixed the plants in the nursery, about half of them were of the carelian variation. So some birches grew long and straight and some grew crooked. Even small branches are valuable as it's very suitable for knife handles and pens which don't require large planks.