ihocky2

I am taking the original post as the main problem you are trying to cure is that the saddles are set for a low action and the saddle height screws stick further out than you would like them to. If that is the case, take them out one by one and just grind them to the height that you want so they are closer to the saddles.

Let's calrify a little bit to get you the correct answer. Are you looking for a fretting template to lay out the fret spacing or are you looking for a template of the neck taper/profile? Fretting templates are not as hard to get. A template for the taper is a lot harder since there are multiple factors that determine the taper; nut width, bridge width, scale length, number of frets. All of those affect the taper of the neck.

I've never done wood binding, but I watched Norm on New Yankee Workshop do some wood bending using a homemade steam oven. He was bending pieces of 1" oak like they were rubber, so if you have the inclination to build the oven, it is definitely the easier way to go.

HVLP all the way. Take a look at the Finex 1000, it is a mini-HVLP gun. Runs off standard compressed air but uses less CFM's being a mini gun, so you can get away with a smaller compressor (my 30 gallon keeps up fine). DeVilbis also makes soem nice mini HVLP guns. HVLP lays down more material faster so less coats are required and it also has a lot less overspray so you use less paint. Because uses low pressure air it is easier to prevent orange peal as well. For guitars there is no need for a large full size gun, the mini-guns work perfect. I have the Finex 1000 with a 0.8mm tip for most of my coats. I am going to pick up a 0.6mm for detail work. I have a separate gun for primer, but if I was going to keep one gun I would need to get a larger tip for primer. Mini guns generally use at least 1 size smaller tip than the tech sheet says. So if you clear recomends a 1.0mm tip, use a 0.8 for a mini gun.

Is it a good Floyd Rose like a Schaller or an OFR or at least a decent licensed version or is it a bargain licensed version? I think it is more than likely in the springs, but just to rule out cheap parts not fitting properly.

If you want something offset, you can't go wrong with a Corvus!!

Okay, that makes more sense. Basically if I go to Walmart and get lemon oil I am getting scented mineral spirits, which is okay for cleaning the furniture. If I look specifically for it I can get one that is purer and better for finishing with.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Washburn recipe sounds basically like standard paste wax? I thought lemon oil is mostly mineral spirits with lemon scent. Paste wax is wax mixed with a solvent, usually turpentine but mineral spirits would not be a far cry different. Maybe I'm wrong on the lemon oil though?

AutoCAD mostly, but sometimes I'll put things into Inventor for 3D work. Mostly to check layouts, but AutoCAD is faster most times. They currently have trails available of their 2012 release which is pretty nice. I've not played with the AutoCAD 3D capabilities in years, so I don't know how much they've improved.

I bought the Harbor Freight 1 ton Arbor press, Drilled the hole for the Stew Mac Fret press caul holder in the ram, you really have to use a drill press for this because you need to make sure that the hole you drill into the end of the arbor is parallel to the sides so the set-up on the drill press takes some time. (clamp everything securely) I also drilled into the face of the ram and tapped it for a 1/4 - 20 set screw to hold the caul holder from falling out or twisting. I have a really stuffed shop wit no room to work efficiently and the whole job took about 2 hours. I'm sure a more organized person could do it in an hour or less. The whole set-up works great. 9 It definitely took me less time than that to drill and tap the post. But it probably took me 2 or 3 hours to clean all of the packing grease off of the thing. Last thing I wanted was a stray gob to get on my work and give me finishing problems. I ordered set screws from McMaster-Carr that have a soft tip so that I an apply enough pressure to keep the caul post in place, but not mar up and tear up the post.

I offered the scratch idea, but he likes the way this one feels and is pretty happy with the tone, so he just want to modify it. I've explained the tone will change, but he is okay with that and still just wants to go with a modification. Thanks for the help with this guys.I can always count on the guys around here to be straight shooters. If I wanted sugar coated I would go to Dunkin Donuts.

I like that idea. I was going to include "Customized by" on the back of the head, but like a I said I want my work to be recognized. That seems like a pretty good compromise.

Hey guys, I have a question about a copyright and patent issue and use of logos. I’ve read through the copyright thread and I didn’t find anything that really helped with my situation. I have a customer who has a Schecter Custom Synester that he wants HEAVILY modified. I have no problem with any of the work, but I also want recognition for the work, and he even wants my logo on it. I’m overhauling the electronics completely and adding a middle humbucker, adding a sustainer, and adding a midi system as phase 1. For phase two I will be replacing the fretboard and having a custom inlay done, planning down the body and head stock a little and adding a quilted maple cap, repainting the entire thing and adding inlay to the head stock. I’ll also be moddifiying the comfort cuts a little and adding some around the neck. So basically the shape of the body and the headstock are staying the same. The body and the neck are still factory made. But beyond that it is going to be completely customized. Because of the shape I feel that I have to either leave the Schecter logo on the front or not use any at all on the front. But I do want it to be known that it is my work. I could add my logo on the back of the headstock, but that doesn’t do much for me. What makes it tougher is that he is not playing the local bar scene, but is going to be going out on tour as an opening act for some larger name bands. So it will be seen be the fans and by people in the business, so it is possible for Schecter to see it and get pissed. Can anyone offer advice on what they would do? Like I said, I want the recognition but I understand the legal ramifications and don’t want to get myself into trouble either.

Poplar and basswood are also very cheap and are commonly used in factory guitars. There are quite a few tonewoods that are also cheap enough to experiment on.

Could cause several problems. First that spacing is a good bit different and you're studs won't come close to lining up right. Second is the difference in distance from the studs to the break point on the saddles. If you put the bridge in place and the distance from the nut to the break point is the same as the scale length then you are okay. If it is different than your scale length will be wrong and it won't play in tune.

In addition to what was mentioned when you go to take the hardware off to polish it, more than likely a good bit of hte paint will stick to the hardware and pull and chip the paint. Plus, with the finish being so soft it will wear easier as you play it and more than likely you will leave imprints in it, especially on the back from your shirt. Not worth the risk.

With you not having much experience in this is would follow Rhoads' advice. It is an easier way to go, takes less time and is more durable.

I've never used it, but after handling some at the mill I would guess that it should sound similar to poplar or basswood. They are both lighter weight and soft hardwoods.

Call some local cabinet builders and see how much they would charge to run the boards through their planer.

Trans-tint and Trans-color are the same product, one is sold at StewMac and the other at wood worker supplies like Woodcraft (I forget which one is at which). They can be mixed with water, alchohol, lacquer or polyurethane to make either dyes or tint coats (dyes are absorbed into the woods such as with water or alcohol and tint coats sit on top. Deft is an okay nitro lacquer that can be bought at either Walmart or Lowes in spray cans at a resonable price. I find that it does dry a little on the harder side for lacquers making it a little easier to chip when it gets banged. But it is perfectly clear so it doesn't change your base color and it is formulated to prevent cracking, which most nitro lacquer does with age. I think I usually used about 6-8 cans when I was still using them, but I forget exactly how many now. But is does take 30 days to dry enough, once you can no longer press into it with your thumbnail and leave a mark it is cured enough. I have never used them, but ReRanch is supposed to make great products and the cost is reasonable. The forum over there is also great for matching original finishes and they mostly use the ReRanch spray cans.

I guess the question here is how good of a resulting finish do you want how much time do you feel is worth putting into it. 30 days to cure is a lot fo time, but if you look at it as business it is not costing you anything. It is simply time, not man hours since it is hanging there and not taking anything from your schedule. As to getting the color right, I would first start off DYING the wood close to a mahogany color, not mahogany red, but true mahogany (a reddish brown). Then seal that with a coat of clear and then spray several coats of cherry red tint to acheive the Gibson color. The SG gets it's color from the mahogany base, red grain filler and cherry red toner coats. You are starting with a whitish, grayish, greenish wood. So you either need to spend a lot of time mixing stains and testing on scraps to get the same color or get your base wood close to the correct color then add your toner color. Wiped finishes are cut heavily with their selected oil, basically all they are doing is thinning the poly to make it easier to wipe. To get good protection you will need to apply far more coats of any wipeable finish than brushing the base finish straight up or spraying from rattle cans. The down sides are A handwiped will still not get a nice level finish and will require far more coats to get good protection. At one or two coats a day you are talking a weeks worth of time to get enough coats, probably longer. To get a nice finish it will still require hand rubbing and polishing. Most hardware store grade poly's require up to 30 days or more depending on the brand to get a hard enough curing to be able to wet sand and get a nice finish. Brushing finishes lay on heavier, but leave brush marks. The good side is it takes less time to build enough coats to protect the finish. This again requires hand finishing and still requires 30 days or more to properly cure. Some poly's and acrylic lacquers just never seem to fully cure. You can rub them out and polish them, leave it one a towel for a day or two or in the guitar case and the material leaves imprints in the finish. Sprayable finishes tend to leave an orange peal effect and require hand rubbing and polishing. These go on faster and require a little less work if you are carefull in your spraying. These build faster than wipeable but rattle cans are slower than brushing in build time. You have to decide what quality finish you are looking for. If you want a nice flat mirror shine like any store bought guitar, then you have to be willing to wait the proper time and take the proper finishing and polishing steps. If brush marks and wipe marks and grain showing from shrink back are acceptable to you, than all you need to do is apply finish and let it cure. In my experience you can do things right or you can do them fast, but not both.

Making them from standard structural grade steel will be an effort in futility. Scrapers are hardened and then anealed so they are flexible yet hard enough to get and hold a burr, so getting it right yourself will be daunting task. However, I have read in several books that scrapers can be easily made from old saw blades. The steel has the right properties to hold a burr, is thin enough and is flexible enough. All you have to do is cut the shape you want.

Welcome to the forum and welcome to the world of hand planes. I am a huge advocate of hand tools when the work suits it. Cleaner, quieter, safer, and at least for me I feel I get a better sense for the wood and a closer attachment to my projects. I still use the thickness planer and table saw and router, but glue joints and clean up work and small pieces get the hand treatment every time.

Check the vendor list on the main site.

Bear in mind that SG's had issues with neck stability because they did not have much side support in the joint, or length for that matter. The glue joint on the bottom might be enough to secure the neck in place against the string tension, but you still need side support to prevent side to side movement of the neck.