ihocky2

If you are dying stay away from glue and saw dust. Super glue and epoxy don't absorb the dye, so they fixes will stick out like a sore thumb.

I am guessing you didn't bother with any type of clear coat. Get some rattle can lacqer or poly.

You're obviously refering to rattlecan paintjobs ... Use a 2-pack product with a catylist and you won't have those problems. Yes I am, because that is what the original post was asking about. His second sentence he says he used car acrylic spray from a spray can. If he was asking about the two part acrylic's my answer would have been different.

Not entirely true. You can use lacquer just fine over shellac. Also lacquer is too general of a term some acrylic lacquers work just fine with nitro lacquers. Others cause severe imcompatability issues. Testing is always the best way to go.

Acrylic is SUPPOSED to cure faster. But it usually doesn't. It cures to a useable hardness for other projects, but the kind of cure and shine we are looking to get for a guitar takes longer than they say. Nitro is usually 1 month cure and you are ready to wetsand. Acrylic doesn't cure as hard as nitro, people have a lot of problems shipping guitars finished in acrylic laquer because it usually imprints with the packing material. Nitro is a better bet.

Sad thing is, it is just sitting in the garage with a sheet of melamine next to it waiting to get worked. Too much else going on right now to have it high on the priority list. Hopefully in the next week or two I'll get too it. We are supposed to get some really hot days here and I usually don't feel like doing much, so that may be a good quick project.

Or if you have the tools, add some binding and cover it up.

Thread each end 1-2 inches. Actually only one end needs to be that long, the other just enough to thread the barrel nut on and then a little. Thread on the barrel nut and use a hammer to peen over the end of the rod and threads. Unthread the barrel nut until it sticks tight on the peened end. That will hold the rod from turning, then just lay it in the slot.

I would loosen them a little but not much. You want enough tension to pull the neck into a forward bow. Otherwise you'll end up with more relief once your are at pitch.

As for scale, I would ask yourself what tuning you will be playing in most often. D tuning is not a big deal on a 25.5" scale with some 11 or 12 gauge strings. But it will depend on the feel that you like. A lot of people find tuning to drop C or standard C on a 25.5" scale gets too loose of a string action even with heavier gauge strings and you may want to step up to a 27" scale. Decide on your main tuning and favorite string gauge and go from there. Go to a store and try playing some baritone scale guitars to see what you think of them.

Time is probably only several hours. But getting a quality job takes practice. There is another option that is kind of a cop out but will work well to get rid of the grooves. Try scalloping the board. I have a Jackson JS-1 that I go dirt cheap to refinish. The board has a huge deep scratch in it. I don't feel like replacing the board, so I am going to try my hand at scalloping on it. If I don't like the feel, it goes on ebay. If I like it, my wife will kill me.

The board is starting out @ 1 inch thick. Planing out a 1/4 inch lift (or twist) is going to remove a lot of stock. I would (if it was maple) slice it up for fingerboards and start fresh with another piece of wood. just my .02. Roman Most necks are around 7/8" thick including a 1/4" finger board. So he would be removing that wood anyway. I would just plane it out and go from there.

looking good so far. Is that a walnut stripe down the middle?

Anything you try and use to fill in the worn areas is is going to stick out like a sore thumb or chip off really badly. The only thing you can really do is replace the fretboard. And a Charvette is not known for being a quality guitar. Most are plywood with a few being basswood.

A few of my neighbors had big yard sales this past weekend, we'll tonight is our garbage night and what do I find on one of their curbs. A nice sturdy cabinet with no top. Nothing wrong with it, and pretty darned solid. I've been looking to do something better for a router table, and one lands in my lap. A sheet of melamine for a double layered top, and some locking casters and I am set. And the nice thing is, I can add a board to seperate out the router area, and I have storage for all of my bits and bushings, and everything else I can imagine.

Whoa Ohh Living on prayer Take my hand, we'll make it I swear

I certainly didn't mean to sound like there are not guys on this board that like pointies. But with the number of strats and tele's we are definitely in the minority. And I am just kind of tired of seeing the same thing with people thinking that to look metal a guitar has to be black, flat black if possible and carried in a coffin case. Perry's multi-scale is a perfect example that in the right hands, even white can be a metal color. I showed this on one other forum and the general consensus was that black hardware would have made it more evil. Give me a break, how much more stereotypical can that be. A player will catch a lot more attention with that than with another black guitar. Don't get me wrong, black is a fine color, I am just tired of that attitude.

Yeah, that sander with the screws just screams danger for your nice pieces of lumber.

Sorry, it was late at night, and I haven't checked back into here until now. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/!ut...P9ggxHRQD4OFkZ/

I just don't see a huge departure from a Les Paul to say that it has a more rocky feel. However the few details I really like are the large carve of the lower horn and the headstock. The body otherwise looks pretty standard except for the controls. I like your logo, but am not thrilled with the fret inlay.

Thanks for all the comments. I pretty much new from the beginning that this would not be a favorite design amongst here, simply because this crowd doesn't get too excited by pointy designs. When I originally made the design I tried to make it look a little more balanced, but in a line drawing in autocad, it just didn't seem to work and looked better, more off centered. But after seing Ben's photoshop work I would agree that it looks much better center up. As for the color, I was tired of black. If I am on the Jackson forum, it's always about having a to be a black gutair to make it more metal and evil. I wanted to show that other colors can work just as well. I am still amazed at how nice the color came out though.

I am in love with these Rustic Series that you have been doing Orgmorg. Once again they are just awesome work, and I had to vote for it.

I think getting rid of the naming portion of the rules would be good. I have a tougher time naming designs than building them. I am also in favor of a progress thread must be posted before it can be entered into the GOTM. Like others have said, it gives us a place to ask questions. And by adding that one rule it eliminates the need for rules about having someone else do the work, or how much modifications are allowed, or how much was done. The progress thread will give those detail and the members voting will be able to decide from there. I don't thikn it is often that we get people wanting to enter more than one a month, so I don't see it as a big deal. If all goes well I'll have two guitar ready in time for the next months entry. Neither of them are of the quality that I want to enter them, but when people finish more than one a month I think it should be allowed. But I do like the idea that if you win, you should not be allowed to enter for three months.

I have finally finished this bad boy up. After having to make a second body due to the fall, and having to strip off the conversion varnish and finish it again it turned out great. The color is exactly where I want and it plays great. I ended up switching to a Honduran Rosewood fingerboard after a horrible fretjob and extremely bad chipout trying to remove the frets from the bloodwood. I gave it to my brother in-law and he was thrilled with it. His one room mate saw it and said he was going to tell his dad about it, so I am hopefull that it will turn into my first true commisioned job.

There are a few links to some videos here for the 3M Perfect It system of polishing. While not the cheapest option, it does look like a nice system and I know the 3M products are highly regarded.