ihocky2

Check out the forum at the ReRanch site. Most of it is geared towards Fender copies, but a lot of those guys are into relicing and do a very nice job with it.

Part of the key to getting the Gibson Cherry used on the SG is to dye to grain filler as well. I don't have the recipe here right now, but I know they dyed the grain filler. I can't remember if they jsut cleared over that or is they sprayed a tinted coat as well.

Walmart carries Deft. As well as Woodcraft. I had never heard of it before joining this forum, and now I find it pretty much everywhere.

This may have been covered already, but if I am correct Perry could sell an exact replica as long as it is built and sold in Australia. Unless FMIC has patents and trademarks registered over there. Please correct me if I am wrong on this issue.

I have searched and found a good amount of info on this topic, but the general consensus has always been that it is easier to just using locking tuners and a graphite nut. I just picked up a Jackson JS-1 very cheap that needs to be refinished. I am putting a Licsenced Floyd Rose bridge on it, and will need a locking nut. I have decided that I am absolutely going to use a locking nut, my question is what will work better a floyd style locking nut or the Kahler behind the nut, locking clamps. The Kahler will mount easier, but I do not know much about them and how well they work. The Floyd works very well, but will require a decent amount of work to add it. And I do not want to drop $30 for the Floyd nut to test the height of it to see how much wood needs to be removed only to find out it won't work. If I go with the Kahler clamps, do the ones with the flip style clamps hold the strings well, or am I still better going with the screw down clamps?

I am not sure where you can find it, but check ReRanch. Also look through their forum. That is a color a lot of people try for over there.

It sounds like you have a strat knock off that you want to cut this into. F-Holes are used in chambered or hollow bodies. So adding one to a solid body is going to look really bad.

Try the search function. Better yet try reading the tutorials sections. This has been cover extensively.

I would have to say it is mahogany. From what I can see in those pictures I would have to say that it is a 1 piece set neck. 3 Piece body. I don't know if that will help with identifying the brand or not. Bridge and tailpiece could be done for under $30. You already have the pickups. Electronics could range from about $10 on up. Tuners will be anywhere from $10 on up, depending on what type and where you get them. Paint should be under $50 depending on if you do it or have a body shop do it.

Mine looks basically the same as yours. The only difference really is the connecting link arm. Mine is a straight arm the pivots and I took the time to draw out a scale for it to move it in 1 degree increments. Other than that it is the same. It is a super simple design. But at the same time will be very versatile. I am thinking about making it that I can mounting it to a shooting board for smoothing the angle with a hand plane.

If you were getting the same measurements on the other guitar and the orignal bridge, I don't think it will be a problem. As for the bridge being un even, the only thing it will really mess with is the string spacing. Your E strings may not be even distances from the edge of the fretboard. Depending on how bad it is, you may be able to adjust the neck to correct it. Try running some type of string from the nut to the saddles and see if it throws the strings off and by how much.

Other than looking a little sloppy, the gap is okay. The saddles will move enough for intonation that it won't affect the scale length. My question though, is why did you set the saddles at 25-3/4" from the nut. Tele's have a 25-1/2" scale. Generally you want to adjust your saddles so they are set 1/3 of the way back from the front of their adjustment and measure your scale length from there. Then mount your bridge and adjust intonation as needed.

I'm not quite sure what you are referring to that the bridge ended up an inch higher than it should have been. The first thing I would do is take a look at the tutorial on the PG front page about how to do a full setup on the guitar and take a look at how to setup a Floyd Rose bridge. Make sure everything is setup properly first. Floyds can be a pain in the butt to work with, most guys that have them develop a system that they do not deviate from when adjusting them, simply to eliminate the problems that the floating styles can cause.

I have a design for a jig that is very similar to that. Mine would max out at 30 deg. and be taller to give better contact against the fences to give a more accurate cut. I will post picks once I build it, but that is a few months away still. With a good blade though, I should only need to do minimal sanding or planing.

If the guy who made them is interested in making a little side cash I am sure a few people on here would be interested if the cost was brought down, I know I would be. One thing that may help to reduce the cost is to eliminate the bearing guide. These bits need to be used in a table router anyway, and the fence will adjust where and how far the bit goes into the wood. Eliminating the machining and threading the end for the bearing guide.

Forgive me if I am interpretting this wrong, but it sounds like the strings are in tune with each other if you are using the 5th fret against the next open string, but the overall tuning of everything is a quarter step flat. One of the problems with Floyd style trems is that when you tune one string it pulls the others out of pitch. This is why you change one string at a time. Otherwise you have to tune several times until everything stays in pitch. Tightening the spring claw is only going to add tension to the trem and pull it deeper into the recess and throw off you action. My suggestions would be to do the following. 1) First make sure the string you are basing your tuning off of is tuned to the correct pitch. 2) Once you go through tuning all of the strings, retune the first string to pitch and go back through and retune all of the strings. Do this until all of the strings are in pitch. Remember with a Floyd, changing the tuning of one string, affects all of the others. In the furutre make sure when you change strings you only change one at a time.

What type of metal are you playing? A lot of people who play power, progressive, thrash metal love the JB/Jazz combo. But the JB has too much treble for most death metal guys. They seem to prefer the Duncan Custom in the bridge. Or most seem to be big fans of EMG, but I am not sure which ones.

the best I can do is to venture a guess, but I would have to say it is something done through a computer. The pattern stays the same through the different marbled colors. But I could be wrong

I agree with Ferdinand on the selector switch, but that is also personal preference. I know I think Strats get in the way, but many like it. The headstock looks 100% better.

PM one of the mods, they can move it. In regards to the design, that looks uncomfortable. 2 pointy horns where your arm will be is just asking to either snap them off, and is just not going to feel good to play.

I can't wait to see what else you can come up with.

I would still love to know how you got that effect in the paint. At first I thought it was swirled using the water technique, but VERY quickly realized I was wrong. That thing is probably one of the best guitars I have ever seen.

There's a reason that those command several thousand dollar price tags through the custom shop. The time and difficulty sanding the King Cuts is part of the price tag. I would have no problem hanging on of those on the wall and using it to annoy the neighbors, but it certainly would never see stage use. I KNOW I would snap the cutaway off if I was playing somewhere other than at home. I love the swirled paint jobs though. If I ever get any of my Jackson's through the custom shop, the first is going to be a Crimson Swirl.

If you use one of the Gotoh TOM's or any of the type that has a slot in the top of the adjusting stud, then you can recess deeper. But you do have to watchout for your intonation screws. Even if they still stick above a little, you have to decide how great of a risk there is that you may nick or scratch the finish trying to adjust the intonation.

While $200 a pop it expensive for a router bit, it can still be a bargain depending on how much and what you build. If you build only a few different radii, then you're at 400 or 600 dollars for something that will make life a lot easier and faster. Even if you don't trust the precision, it removes that majority of the material and you can adjust by hand. It's still the same as the radiusing attachment for a belt sander, and half the cost if you have to buy the sander as well.