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Happiness is a sharp chisel ( and all digits intact )

Quite different, and exceptionally good.

Well that's just the two options I would tend to accommodate. Mind you there's nothing at all stopping you from trying the shim method, but you've obviously thought about the possible repercussions, and they're not all that positive !! That's all I've got for you I'm afraid I doubt thickening up your router base to suit will help at all either. good luck

Your paint supplier knows his stuff, as he should. Most reputable paint companies use this type of system to create a clear coat of differing gloss levels. I've used it quite a bit through the years on Automotive resprays & pro restorations and have found it to be a great way to get a satin effect. The only downside that I've found with this method is that in most (not all) cases, doing it this way can cause problems when running a buff over the clearcoat . cutting the clear back with a buff can effect the gloss levels in the area you're buffing. It sometimes makes that area a little bit more glossier than unbuffed areas. I still reckon the old high grit wet sand back option works really well also.

Is re-making the template in a thicker material out of the question? Either that or a shorter bit.

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Is this it, Mattia? Maton pickups cheers all

Nice idea Ben. You just can't beat a lateral thinker !!!

Mortal sin eh...... cool Saw them last year opening for Anthrax.

Good to see you flying the flag of all things aussie Which one's for you? 25.5 or 25 scale? Hotrod sounds interesting, too. I'm looking at getting a decent Drill press, so if your willing to divulge your sources...... so....... anwhere you know that stock quality drill-pressery ?

You obviously want the pickguard . It looks better without (IMO), with all that wood worth looking at underneath If you gotta stick one on, try a clear perspex one first. That way, you get the protection, but still see the grain.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained I reckon give it a go . Then you can tell us all about it I think I know the Caparison guitar you're talking about. 27 frets, applehorn headstock & rebated logo in the guitar face?

Has any on here had experience with the Speedloader whammy? Just curious if all the hype is justified.

Good on ya Scotty. Whatever floats your boat I guess. I'm a toolaholic, so I have no qualms in buying what is required. But being a toolaholic also means I try and buy the best I can afford , or in some cases can't afford. I let my wife know I can also use them at work but also claim a percentage on tax and she's kinda happy (note: wife is an accountant)

It's a bit of a learning curve, especially trying to create a good hook on these things, but I'm getting there slowly, and might I add with the smile still on my face. I can see great things for the curved scraper, especially for carve-tops. ta for the advice.

In the interest of keeping this thread in existence I have a query of my own . I bought a 3 pack of scrapers along with a burnisher and another straight scraper. Veritas brand. Now the 3 pack scrapers are .4 mm thickness whereas the straight one is .7 mm What will a thinner scraper do that a thicker one won't ? also the big difference in an alloy scraper versus stainless steel. What do you guys have the best results with?

I unfortunately used the same line, but in reverse. reno first, build after. Renovations are just about done, and the fun is about to begin. I can sense many days and nights spent in the workshop from hereon in.

April fool in May? There's nothing there to be proud of.

Hi ya all, Just a question regarding the use of volutes. I notice there are some guitars with and some without and it leaves me wondering exactly what the reason for a volute is. Is it strength-related for the headstock or just comfort ? And if it is strength, when is it applicable ? The placement of the volute, obviously is behind the nut. I'm just curious where you tend to place them, whether it's carefully measured or aesthetic ? cheers

Top tips, Mattia. The video gives a real insight into what's able to be done when you have a fair whack of skill & patience. I've got the skill & patience hidden away somewhere, I've just gotta find it !!

I think I remember seeing an 'action shot' of Setch cutting out the covers from his body blanks. I'm pretty sure it was the same guitar that he's got up for noms. for GOTM. I just had a look at the GOTM vote poll pics. Those covers came up a treat too. Setch... where are you ?? Any knowledge you'd like to share on this one ?

I second the 'make it yourself' theme. Buying all your bits from Warmoth is great, but making the stuff yourself AND to your own design is the best. Making the covers yourself is an ideal project for someone such as yourself who has minimal tools to work with. And you can make them as you want them to be. Does it get any better than that? Bet you could buy the tools and wood for less than it costs to buy ready made too

It doesn't get much better than that ( IMO)

I think any project is only as good as the parts you use. If it was me, I'd wait a while longer and have me the real deal. ( I'd probably even sell my body if I had to ) Good luck with it all.

The contaminated rag scenario sounds the most likely. 40 psi sounds o.k, although you can take it to 35. ( I prefer 40 to 50 myself) You mentioned that you noticed the silicon fish-eyes popping up on the fourth coat. This can be compounded if there are quite a few coats applied in quicker succession than would be recommended. Remembering that you want your previous coats to "flash off' before you re-apply over the top. In essence, give a bit more time between coats for drying. As far as a degreaser goes, I would consult the can or what have you, for a recommended product for that particular brand. The products website could have data sheets in this area. Always degrease before spraying. Even just to remove body oils from handling the item. We used Prepsol which was perfect for Automotive applications but maybe not for yourself. One more thing !! If you notice these fish eyes appearing while spraying again, let it dry out for longer before reapplying a dust coat over the affected area. Again this is there to seal off and hopefully stave off further reactions from permeating future coats. Then you should be able to reapply as a normal coat. The normal reaction is to spray on heavy coats to try to bury it. This just makes it worse. So , take your time and go lightly !! Good luck with it and let me know how things go.