low end fuzz

im not sure how many 'secrets' their giving away; but these are pretty cool videos, and if i find the collection on dvd i'll buy them; that luthiercast episodes is fun to watch, but buddy is a lil dry. thanks for the links

http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i23/lowendfuzz/ walnut body; curly/birdeye neck;

i tried these stew mac cheapies and decided to put them on a new headstock; they are the ' adjustable tension tuners' w/ elephant ears; fyi; they are multi screwed in the back, with press fit bushings; my original plan was to drill for the posts, fill in with dowel, drill out for bushing and knock out the dowel; like ive done 'guitars' before; i have the post holes drilled, but the bushings are 23/32; and i want the holes a tiny bit smaller for the teeth although, a layer of finish might tighten them up just fine; but i dont have a 23/32 bit; the closest thing i have is a 3/4 (i forget the name , but its the scary one w/ 3 points haha) i went looking for something at the stores but cant find anything that looks like a good choice and my reamer is to small for these 'giant' bushings. any ideas? thanx

actually, your best bet to keep your fb bright and orange is put nothing on it (maybe some oil, but not nesecarry) and if it gets dark , you re-sand it, and the bright comes back; of course you dont want to do this every month, but the option is there; if your showing it off down the road.

just instrument laquer; most likely i'll be spraying 2 at a time, and thats just so i dont do only one at a time; but dust is the big issue for spraying at the shop; i share it w/ another guy; and its an open one room area; we have to stop everything so we can spray, its not that we're sooo busy we cant stop, but we tried it and its a headache; and before i apply a second coat of the first phase before level sanding i wait 2 hrs, and 1 hr. 55 min is a long time to sit around away from home

ive been considering making a make shift spray booth in my own garage, so i can be at home while applying film finishes; the shop is too far to sit and wait (and not do anything dusty)while spraying consecutive coats; i have some ideas; but im sure im not the first one to go about this; and was looking for some tips and no-nos; it will basically be big enogh to stand and move around bodies; off the top of my head, im thinking 6-7 ft. tall in a 4-5 ft. cube; prolly out of particle board; w/unexplosive fan pointed out the door; i want to paint the walls with something i can wet to keep any dust down; like a plastic paint(?) maybe line it w/ thin metal or plastc wrap? or make it out of portable (like school) metal? the idea would be just to spray towards the fan, and have enough room to turn around and hang them w/o interfering the next spray; no more than 3 will be done at one time, and thats a stretch; if i could make it the whole garage i would,but cant; am i overlooking anything obvious? no my neighbours dont care; theyre mostly harly ridin drunks thanks; sorry if this should be in the finishing section

i'm going to use 1 p-basspickup, just to see how it sounds. it's a top route so i'm going to route a swimming pool under the pickguar. at least that's my plan

id cut it right down the center; laminate a new center piece and try again; if your headstock is stretched from the middle, you should still be able to save your original design; the new piece only has to be twice as wide as your mess up;which looks like 1/4" (so 1/2'' piece); ithink right......1/4 " on both sides, i thinnk thats how that works; is that right..................?

lemon oil; you dont want to build a finish, you just want it to be 'moist'(?) you only want to finish maple boards, and that should be a laquar (for dirty fingers)

the only power tool ive ever seen used on pearl with sucsess was a drill at school; for the eyes of a pair of sharks ;(long story;stubid bob) even then it was scary; i dont even cut right on my line, so i can sand it to the real shape w/pare and files

whats wrong with drawing a center line on everything?

ya know what i tried that worked well; i tried ordering some birdseye headstock plates from lmi; but they wernt wide enuff for ****; but very bright gold/yellow; i cut them into big squares like an LP or somthing and thay look awsome; my only concern is if i should put a finish on the fb so it dosent get dirty/damaged, cause its pretty soft wood; it worked perfect because it was about 2mm thin i think;

maybe it was your method? im fammiliar with melvyns books, but i cant remember his method for tops; id assume it was done with pipe clamps; i find with clamps there is too much pressure, which, if something is not lined propperly, one of the boards will slip or buckle; i make sure their tottally squared and only use run of the mill masking tape; its perfect for very brittle buckeye and other styro foam woods.

pink ivory is the hardest wood ive ever used; the only thing i used it for on a guiter(bass) was the nut and truss cover; i used it for borders on lil boxes and stuff; but ya, harder than ebony; loses a little of its colour after getting it sanded, it takes to an awsome polish; and i dont see why it wouldnt be perfect for a fingerboard; ive never been in the vicinty of a piece large enuff to really do anything that big; and if you dont use it, can i buy it?

Hey, that's my blog. thats my blog too! does that link just take you to your own myspace blog??

i think hes referring to how unporportioned it will appear; and what kind of guitar pickups are you gonna fit in pbass holes?

is there a finish that will keep paduak and purp/heart from going brown if left in the dark?

ohoh, one more thing; should i rip the frets out first, to make contact with the board, or is the steam surrounding it enuff? should i pout a wet cloth over the wood too? thanx again oh and if your concerned about the soaking, i dont go crazy on the neck because i dont want it getting into my truss cavity, but my bodies get 1 or 2 dripping wet soaks; i find wetter is better, as long as their bone dry when you sand'em

iam; on my figured maple necks i dye them 3-4 times with really dilluted amber analine dye to dewhisker and bring out the curl ; its more or less dyeing a minor amount at a time with removing the raised grain each time; tried it once and will continue; its not that im not interested in heating the board as much as 'never done it' i should prolly try, and if its gonna be scrap (technically) anyways , its a good time to learn; can i use an iron?

i would assume the epoxy would stiffin the neck in a 'cacoon' and would nt flex with the strings/wood; i have no reason to beleive it, just speculation from what ive seen when wood moves inside a finish; i might try heating the board though; when i remove fb, i use chisels, and i only do it to get my truss rod back; thanx

i was thinking of something like that; or possibly epoxy the whole thing and give it a film finish, but i think the neck will need more flexibility than that (i always oil necks) setch, you have a good idea, exept in my case, after i take off the finger board the maple's not gonna be a clean piece, which means id have to re-joint it, which means my headplate is gonna have to come off, which also means i'll have to glue a new fb to a radiused neck which means ...its a buetiful curly/b.e. neck, and i fuct it. thanx anywho

if youve already found someone to make you the screen they couold prolly tell you where a silk screener is, and you could print your logo onto a transperency and have it emulsified onto a screen; you can get pretty detailed

profiling my neck today, for my first left handed order; very basic; 2pc. walnut body w/b.e & hard culy maple neck; jazz bass; also for the first time using the hot rod trusses i got a while back; everything was well ; good fast neck (approx 21mm) i wanted to de whisker it many times with really dilluted amber analine dye, like 180 -320 grit; well after i soaked her down and waited a few hours i went back and started sanding with my 180 and soaked it again, when i went back to i held it and was twisting my hand around the profile and whatnot, and soo very strange, i thought the water raised the grain in a straight line down the center of my neck; so i stood there w/ my mouth wide open , cause i finally realized it was my my truss rod pushing up through the wet wood; when it was dry i sanded it lightly and the raised area was gone, and i couldnt feel any weakness spots in the wood, but am very dissapointed, im gonna have to make another one which sucks because this lefty was suprisingly hard for no real reason;and the curls look amazing; i'll prolly end up puting it on a new sign or something; my sign right now is just made of hard maple/no figure it came down to 2 factors i figure, my fingerboard was thicker than usual, and the hot rods are an extra mm or so than my old single way rods, and when i used my cliper i didnt factor in either

my lado had an inch center thru the neck(and body/thru-nek) and never a problem; it was also 20 years old when i bought it

ya, im prolly gonna drill 2 holes; one as big as i want my top 'loop' to be and a really small noe at the end of the taper and cut it out on the scroll saw and clean it up with knives or sandpaper